Brakes... HELP

[Mavrick]

I'm trying to remove the front rotors to turn them, and re-install with new pads.

I got the caliper off, and hung it up, out of the way. I removed the dust cap, and the codderpin as well. Am i missing something, or can i yank the rotor off as it is? It's being awefully stubborn..

I have included a link to a few pics i took, and i'd like some expert's to chime in and give me some advice. The calipers, they look rough... are they fine as they are, or should i clean them up, rebuild them if possible?

Pics

 

[hllon4whls]

The cotter pin only keeps the spindle nut from turning. There is a piece of stamped metal that goes right under the cotter pin. That just pulls straight off with fingers or a gentle tug with needle nose. Then there is a nut in there that is fairly loose. You could possibly unscrew that with your hands.

For reassembly, clean front and rear bearings in gas or paint thiner. Repack the bearings with DISC BRAKE GREASE. There is GP grease and some that specifically says for disc brakes. If you dont get the right grease in there, there is a 75% chance that a bearing will freeze up.

Replace the rear grease seal by gently tapping it in. Keep it square with the rotor. Try not to let it **** to one side or another. A piece of 2x4 wood works good to let you tap it in.

For the spindle nut, just basically hand tighten untill there is no play in the rotor on the spindle. It will not spin like a bike tire, but should turn fairly easily. The grease will keep it from free spinning much. Then replace the little stamped metal locking piece and a cotter pin.

Calipers: They look old, but in good shape. If the seal or the piston is not damaged nor binding, then they are ok to reuse.

Use a piece of flat metal across the piston to protect it and bottom the piston out with a C-Clamp. If not, the newer, thicker pads will not go on.

Hope this helps.

 

[Mustang5L5]

After taking off the cotter pin, you did take the nut off the end of the spindle and then the washer right? After that the rotor just pulls off and you have two bearings inside and a rear dust seal.

Oh yeah get the correct torque specs on the nut when you reinstall. I think it's something like 21 INCH-POUNDS. I usually tighten it as hand tight as i can get it while spinning the rotor and then give it a little snug and that's it.

 

[hllon4whls]

For the drums, take a picture of each side and then only take 1 side apart at a time. That way you have a reference point.

Becareful of breathing the dust. Get 2 or 4 cans of spray brake cleaner and have at it. They sell a new brake hardware kit for about $10 from Advance auto parts. This is good if you loose or damage springs in the process. You also need a brake tool to make your life easier. Drums are not hard, but you have to make a note of the 20 or so pieces and where they go.

When you put it back together, turn the adjusting nut so that you have a light drag on the drum when turning by hand. Hold it square and tight to the axle (or put 2 lug nuts on snug) to check the drag. If not, you wont be able to set it correctly.

Once you do one car, you can master it for life.

I personally wish that drum brakes would go away. Discs are so much easier. Even my 02 250 has discs! The 02 taurus and the 87 stang still have drums.

 

[hllon4whls]

One more thing. The brake shoes are not the same length. Take notice of the short one and the long one. One goes to the front and one goes to the back. Each side of the car should have one long and one short one.

 

[Mavrick]

hllon4whls: Oh man, thanks a lot for all that info! I've already copied it into a .text file for future reference.

When i removed the cotter pin/stamped metal/washer/bearing i stacked them together in the order they came out, on a magnetic tray so i don't lose them. I think i should be OK if i just replace the cotter pins and assemble with new grease. I have a can of laquer thinner, is that OK to soak/clean the bearings etc with?

I get what you mean with the caliper.. if i bottom the piston out with a C-clamp, will the piston stay bottomed out when i re-install?

Boy were these things a PITA to get off, i guess the previous owner didnt care to stop, pisses me off! Your right about mastering it, disc brakes are so simple.

 

[ram360]

Brakes are easy Mav. When I did mine I just bought new oem rotors ($30 ea) instead of getting the old one's cut for like $15 or so. Let us know how everything works out. Looks like hllon4whls got all your q's answered. I also added braided stainless brake hoses when I did my pads and rotors since the origional were pretty shot anyways.

 

[hllon4whls]

You can soak the bearings in laquer thinner, just dont pass out from the vapors.
You should replace the grease seal on the back of the rotor! It is worth the 3-4 dollars. Clean that lip where the grease seal rides as well. A rag with some solvent will take care of that. The bearings should not be blued up or really scarred. They should spin freely when clean and dry.

The piston will stay in the caliper. Be sure to drive it in straight. Not at an angle. It will go back firmly but smoothly. The fluid will go back up to the master cylinder.

Do NOT PRESS THE brake pedal without pads in the caliper and the caliper on the rotor OR without drums over the shoes! IF you do, you will pop the piston out and pop the wheel cylinder pistons out.

Keep the pads and rotors as grease free as possible when they are turned and ready to go back on. This is where the brake clean spray comes in handy. It dries cleanly leaving no residue.

Pack the bearings very well and use the right grease and you will be all set. I personally ruined about 3 sets of bearings on different cars before I found out it was the grease. I packed the hell out of them, too!

Back in the day my dad had this grease so thick that you could stand up, throw the bearing in the bucket and it would just stick and sit on top of the grease. That was good stuff! He bought it in a 5 gallon bucket for his dump truck.

 

[Mavrick]

Cool. I can hardly afford anything right now, i have some debt to pay off to my parents and my brother.

I would get both new rotors, but i can't afford it. I'm taking those rotors into the school to get turned for free.

Do drums warp, do they have to be turned or cut at all? Or can i just clean em up and throw them back on with new brakes?

 

[hllon4whls]

Brakes are easy Mav. When I did mine I just bought new oem rotors ($30 ea) instead of getting the old one's cut for like $15 or so. Let us know how everything works out. Looks like hllon4whls got all your q's answered. I also added braided stainless brake hoses when I did my pads and rotors since the origional were pretty shot anyways.

The stainless brake hoses and new rotors are nice. IMO worth the money. The hoses run about $100. Take a little time to get on. I had to fuse a new piece of brake line because I twisted off one of my fittings like the 1d10t that I am. I dont like to worry about 17 year old rubber when doing 120mph!

 

[Mavrick]

Do drums warp, do they have to be turned or cut at all? Or can i just clean em up and throw them back on with new brakes?

 

[hllon4whls]

Do drums warp, do they have to be turned or cut at all? Or can i just clean em up and throw them back on with new brakes?

They can be turned. They dont warp so to speak, but the braking surface can develop grooves. My personal practice is if they are not glazed or grooved, I just clean them up and put them back on.

A coat of high temp paint does wonders for drums and calipers. Esp behind some ponies.

 

[Mavrick]

Yep thats my plan.. going to clean em all up, probably turn the drums just for the hell of it (it's free at the school). Painting them flat black, just so they look clean.

hllon4whls, thanks again.. i really appreciate all your help man.

 

[Mavrick]

The brakes were applied a couple times with the rear drums off (fronts weren't apart), how can i check if i blew the cylinder out?