Brakes

Sounds like the Master Cylinder is bypassing to me. But I would replace or rebuild the wheel cylinders too.

I had the same issue... just fixed it last night. Like everyone else said, the first thing i did was get a new master cyl. After that I pulled each drum and cleaned it up and repacked the bearings. then i pumped the pedal a couple times to see if any of the wheel cyls were leaking, i only had one that was so i rebuilt that one, then bled the entire system. my goal was not to go cruising around town or anything, just to be able to pull it out into my driveway so i can clean up my garage a little easier and maybe up and down the street, before i put it on the road i plan on replacing the wheel cyls and shoes and get a new hardware kit.

good luck, and like others mentioned, be safe!

No need to buy parts just because you have an abundance of money, or not. Bleed the system and install fresh fluid. If that doesn't do it, it is the MC. If you have pedal after the bleed, drive it carefully, and test the brakes. If they pull to one side, you have some wheel cylinders in need of attention.

I am with Ozsum67...........do the "budget" stuff first. Someone will always take your money later if needed.

HistoricMustang
www.historicmustang.com

If you have the money and plan on driving the car a good bit, you may want to do what I'm about to do: disc brakes. My braking system is about shot (it's only gotten worse since the fire) and it is a daily driver (litterally, it's my only vehicle) soit is a 4 wheel disc conversion for me.

However, as far as your problem, the consensus sounds right (though I'm not an expert) and it's not expensive if that is all that is needed.

UNVMATT said:

Does anyone know what to do in order to get brakes to function after a car has been sitting awhile?

They worked 5 years ago but the pedal goes to the floor now.. The resorvoir has fluid in it. The shoes arent worn and the drums are in good shape. Do I just need to bleed them?

Click to expand...

First look and see where the Fluid has leaked from.
It's a sealed system so it went somewhere.

When a car has sat for that long a period, I pull the wheel cyl apart and clean them and reassemble with brake assembly lube.
It gives you a quick check on their condition and lets you change the fluid at the same time.
As well as adjust and bleed the system.

PB

I have a similar problem. My brakes are terrible after Idid my suspension/steering upgrades...car also has sat since September (besdies moving on and out of the garage).

I want to bleed/flush the system...anyone know how to do this by yourself?? I don't want to bother my wife or friends to come sit in the car and push the pedal.

67GTA-FB429 said:

I have a similar problem. My brakes are terrible after Idid my suspension/steering upgrades...car also has sat since September (besdies moving on and out of the garage).

I want to bleed/flush the system...anyone know how to do this by yourself?? I don't want to bother my wife or friends to come sit in the car and push the pedal.

Click to expand...

Get a vacumm pump that fits on the nipple, and with suction applied, loosen the nipple until fluid comes out.

pabear89 said:

First look and see where the Fluid has leaked from.
It's a sealed system so it went somewhere.

When a car has sat for that long a period, I pull the wheel cyl apart and clean them and reassemble with brake assembly lube.
It gives you a quick check on their condition and lets you change the fluid at the same time.
As well as adjust and bleed the system.

PB

Click to expand...

He said it had fluid in it. More than likely air in the system or water. Most fluid has some water in it because it starts being a sponge the moment the bottle is opened. After 2-3 years, 15-25% of the volume may be water. More time.......more water. Unless he is storing the car in the vacumm of space, it really isn't a sealed system. Sure, it has a cap, but it isn't as tight as an oysters ass which would be air or water tight.

Ozsum67 said:

He said it had fluid in it. More than likely air in the system or water. Most fluid has some water in it because it starts being a sponge the moment the bottle is opened. After 2-3 years, 15-25% of the volume may be water. More time.......more water. Unless he is storing the car in the vacumm of space, it really isn't a sealed system. Sure, it has a cap, but it isn't as tight as an oysters ass which would be air or water tight.

Click to expand...

Ok, without having more info even assuming there was fluid in it and he did not add any.
I have had systems that had weeped fluid from wheel cyl and line connections that allowed air into it.
They took a few pumps took make them work, sorta.
No stopping pressure but fluid still in the M/c.

I don't think I said that it was air tight,
But you don't replace the fluid as it goes down.
Once it's adjusted and properly bleeded, the fluid level will give you a Quick reference to the amount of brake lining you have left.

PB

After purchasing my 67, I lost the power booster and decided to redo the brakes. After 5 years of sitting, you may have water in the lines, and if you do, more than likely rust in the calipers/wheel cylinders. Though it might be a little more money, it's probably a good idea to rebuild or replace as needed. I can tell you from experience (not in my Stang though) it's no fun when the vehicle doesn't stop and slides into someone, luckily no one was hurt, but it could've been bad. Think safety first!

I would guess the MC is bypassing, either from a torn cup or sludge. You can try to bleed it out, but if you are going to keep this car and drive it for a while, replace all the hydraulics and have some peace of mind.

You could be cheap and uncertain, but I just did complet disc drum OH on my 69. I have a friend with a jobber account at the local brake shop. New drums cost me $16, wheel cylinders $7, etc etc.

At those costs, why be cheap?

Skywalker my brother is at Ga tech......

I say replace any rubber hoses and bleed fresh fluid throught the system. Good Luck