break in new motor

[88_GT_5_oh]

well this weekend i am planning on dropping in my 306. , i have never started a new motor before, I read abit but i just wanted to get the opinion on how some of you guys who have done this a couple times do it.
What to do, what not to do kinda thing. the motor is at TDC but with no dizzy, do i just point the rotor to the # 1 plug and drop it in with the ballancer at TDC? how soon do you change the oil . these sound like dumb questions even to me, but i have never done this before and i don't wanna screw up my new investment

this week is gonna go by so slow for me cause i already can't wait to do it

 

[Ray@VSK]

First off #1 cylinder needs to be @ top dead center, then you need to prime the oil pump with a drill then you drop in the dizzy.

 

[88_GT_5_oh]

ah ya.. i forgot the drill part. i knew to do it, i just forgot to type it... i did mean to ask how fast do i run the drill? like full speed or just kinda half speed?

 

[Ray@VSK]

Shouldn't matter as long as it's not real slow & you run it for atleast a few minutes & verify it's pumping & has lubricated all the internals.

 

[ram360]

you'll need a good strong drill to prime up a motor (run it in reverse). Pull the valve covers off and prime it till oil comes out over the rockers.

 

[88_GT_5_oh]

ahhhh i didn't know to run it in reverse.....this is why i posted

 

[ram360]

ahhhh i didn't know to run it in reverse.....this is why i posted

Accidentally did that on my car... I was like WTF no oil pressure then I realized the drill was turning the wrong direction.

 

[tony91723]

yeah good luck I just slapped my 306 in with AFR's the works. I have been living a nightmare ever since with a sewing machine noise coming from my valve covers. I have triple checked everything still nothing. I have never been so stumped in my life. GOOD LUCK. Please double and triple check everything. it will only benefit you .

 

[88_GT_5_oh]

ahh i didn't wanna read that....lol

everything on my motor was assembled by a good shop, right down to the rockers, i was kinda leary about doing it all myself, so i got it all done, now i kinda wish i did it all myself. but this way if i have troubles i will be all over the guy at the shop like theres no tommorow

 

[DMAN302]

Run the drill for 3-4 minutes...you'll FEEL the pressure come up, just let it run for a good period of time. Next find TDC by bumping the engine with finger on #1..when pressure pushes finger off the spark plug hole start looking to line up the balancer mark for "0" and that's TDC. As for first start..assuming your running a hydralic roller, start her up and get her timed with a timing gun. Let it warm up and check for noises, leaks...if none just let her warm up. Once at temp go for a drive, short trip, come back and check for problems. No problems at this time...DRIVE IT, lots of short trips..change the oil at 100and 500 miles and your good to go. Remember to run the drill in reverse when you prime, and to retorque your lower at least once better twice..it will loosen up.

 

[88_GT_5_oh]

retourque lower intake? ok, cool.

i thought for some reason you had to change the oil after letting it run for like 20 mins.

thanks guys for the replys

 

[DMAN302]

You can change the oil any time you want, but there is no break in for a hydralic roller cam, so you don't need to get it changed that quick. I waited 100 miles and it was clean and gorgeous...I could even have waited to 500 for the first, but what the hell. My 04GT didn't get a change till 1000KM's and I wouldn't expect any problems from that either.

 

[vristang]

Heres what I have gathered after having some problems getting the rings to seat in my motor. Buy cheap oil and change it immediately after the first test drive. Maybe even before the motor is fully warmed up. This will get the assembly lube out of the motor. Then keep running the cheap oil until you think the rings are pretty well seated. At that point your free to run synthetics/blends. There are probably many out there who will argue with me to the death on this, but I ran synthetic blend (Castrol?) and seem to have a great deal of blowby after 5k mi. I am told that sythetics don't allow the rings to seat properly. I have also found this in several respected books as well.

I see no need to pull the valve cover to prime the oil system. You will know when the oil starts to flow as the drill will bog down. Be sure to run for a while after that though.

After starting check the timing, keep an eye on the coolant level, and look for that one vac. leak or e- plug that always seems to get by .

 

[DMAN302]

I have never seen a car roll off a new car lot with a need for imediate oil change..millions of cars are turn key and go...there is no break-in. It's personal preference..I baby mine for 500 miles A)To break in the CF II clutch B)because it makes me feel warm and fuzzy inside. The rings will seat wether you drive it like you stole it, or baby it.

 

[vristang]

I didn't exactly baby my motor. It was just to much fun reving to 6k to resist any longer than about 500mi.
I could be wrong but isn't there a factory break in procedure? I always assumed this was done before the motor was bolted into the chassis.