Broke a stud. How to replace?

Any stud I have ever replaced, there was enough room to just knock it out. Sometimes you just need to rotate the hub slightly to get it in the best spot.

Just bang it out, most of the time a hammer is all thats needed. Insert the new stud through the back (I've installed with and without lube, your choice), and pull the tapered end in with a lug nut. Whala, you're done.

Dragstr05 said:

Any stud I have ever replaced, there was enough room to just knock it out. Sometimes you just need to rotate the hub slightly to get it in the best spot.

Just bang it out, most of the time a hammer is all thats needed. Insert the new stud through the back (I've installed with and without lube, your choice), and pull the tapered end in with a lug nut. Whala, you're done.

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dead on!, they also make a stud removal, installer tool to make you x-tra warm and fuzzy inside

You should be able to get it out without pulling the axle (I take it its a rear stud then). You, of course, will need to pull the brake completely off. A removal tool will help, but you can just use a C-clamp and a socket larger than the back side of the stud. A propane torch (or better i.e. mapp or oxy/mapp) will make everything WAY easier! I've had some studs take forever to get out, and some pop out in a few seconds - luck of the draw (or luck of the rust I guess lol)

I had a hard time putting in a pep boys $2 stud. The $10 OEM stud went in easy. Good luck.

Yea I broke studs off becuase I overtightened the old bolts. I just spray some wd -40 in my lugnuts so they don't stick.

BennyBlown2v said:

You should be able to get it out without pulling the axle (I take it its a rear stud then). You, of course, will need to pull the brake completely off. A removal tool will help, but you can just use a C-clamp and a socket larger than the back side of the stud. A propane torch (or better i.e. mapp or oxy/mapp) will make everything WAY easier! I've had some studs take forever to get out, and some pop out in a few seconds - luck of the draw (or luck of the rust I guess lol)

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That will do it! Also, if you have trouble getting the new stud to pull through put it in the freezer for an hour or so and it will shrink just enough to help out. I have done 3 or 4 this way now and it really helped me.

I just did this about 3 months ago. Very very easy, you will surprise yourself.

Remove the caliper and the rotor first.... I had to remove the emergency brake spring to get at the bolts... watch your face, that thing can do some damage and is wound very tight.

If there is enough stud left on the old one that you can give it a whack with a hammer, then have at it. IF there is enough stud that it won't get past the agitator, a dremel tool works great to shorten the stud you are removing... be careful not to gouge up anything else.

Once the old one is removed, line up the new one so that it is mostly into the hole. The back of the stud will be on the edge of the ABS Agitator. The best way, in my opinion, to get past it is to use a Big mo'fo C-Clamp. Tighten it SLOWLY, one end on the back of the new stud, the other beneath the hole where it is going (not above, as you might warp the plate. Eventually it will just pop into place.

Once it is in, use an open ended nut and about 1/4" worth of spacers (I used stainless washers that I had sitting around) to draw the stud into place. You should tighten it a bunch, then loosen it a little, tighten again, loosen. Do that a few times until you are certain you have it all the way in.

Then you can replace the rotor, replace the caliper, reattach the emergency brake, mount the tire and your off and running.

Cake and Pie, even for me.

dont take your emergency brake springs off.. use a open ended wrench to take that bolt out..

+1 for using a socket and a C clamp. I have done that a few times with no problems.

i use an impact gun and a large nut as a spacer to pull the new stud thru