Broke a water pump bolt in the block. Help!

Dbeck002 · Aug 1, 2005

This happened a couple days ago, I'm still in the middle of the headswap and i cant go any further without removing this bolt.

What happened: During disassembly i barely applied any torque to one of the water pump bolts and it just twisted broke. After i removed everything, I discovered there is about 1/4" of bolt sticking out of the block. The threads are mangled down to the shaft. I hit it with PB blaster a million times and tried using vice grips to slowly break it loose. I need to get this bolt out, I'm sure there is a tool out there designed for something like this. Please tell me where to get it and how to get this bolt out! I cant continue until its out

BTW i could probably bolt everything back together and it 'shouldnt' leak because the bolt is in a redundant location. But i dont want to be driving around with this thing on my conscience. I have to get it removed....

Rick 91GT · Aug 1, 2005

Use some heat (acetylene would be best but a Propane should work) and it will come out with the visegrips, if not you can try to drill it and use an eaz-out or slowly step the dril size up until you drill the bolt out, re tap and you should be OK. If you drill it out to far you will need to helicoil it.

Paul Perreca · Aug 1, 2005

my dad welded a head of another bolt onto the bolt in question, and used that size socket to get it out, so he used the head, and about 1/4 inch of the threads on another disposable bolt, than welded at the threads, and turned, seemed to work pretty easily for him, but he told me that doesnt usually work that easy, but works....
HEAT (torch) usually helps, never used it on ablock, but use it on exhaust alot..
GOOD LUCK
Paul Perreca

Dbeck002 · Aug 1, 2005

My shop specialist told me to weld a nut on the bolt. Then use a wrench to turn it out, the heat from the weld he said also helps break up the rust. Im gonna try this.

jrichker · Aug 1, 2005

For some prevention of future problems, see http://www.windsorfox.com/engtbk.htm for some stainless steel waterpump bolts.

Dbeck002 · Aug 1, 2005

jrichker said:
For some prevention of future problems, see http://www.windsorfox.com/engtbk.htm for some stainless steel waterpump bolts.

Sweet.. But i need them now because im going on vacation in 3 days

Insane3D · Aug 1, 2005

Last I heard, WF was charging a crazy amount on shipping, and when you call them you get a disconnected message. Buyer beware...

Dbeck002 · Aug 1, 2005

Alright thanks.

Dbeck002 · Aug 1, 2005

Update:

I had my father weld a nut unto the 1/4" of bolt sticking out of the block. He is a pro welder and did a great job getting that nut on there.

After the area was all warm, I hit it with some PB blaster and let it sit for a minute. Then i slowly began to tap on the handle of the ratchet to try to break up whatever rust was in there. I decided that it wont come out, it needs a little more force to get some momentum going. As soon as i applied the littlest bit of force to the handle the nut began to rotate breaking the stud. So now I have a broke stud in the block.

The location is the topmost leftmost water jacket bolt where the timing cover sits. I have no choice but to put the engine back together and pray it wont leak.

luckythirteen13 · Aug 1, 2005

buy an easy out kit!!

Daggar · Aug 1, 2005

luckythirteen13 said:
buy an easy out kit!!

If welding a nut to the remaining bolt, heating, then hitting it with PB blaster doesn't work then I can just about guarantee yout hat an easy out won't work either. Drill, tap, and helicoil is about the only option left.

Dbeck002 · Aug 1, 2005

Daggar said:
If welding a nut to the remaining bolt, heating, then hitting it with PB blaster doesn't work then I can just about guarantee yout hat an easy out won't work either. Drill, tap, and helicoil is about the only option left.

I have no idea where to start. i might just buy a new bottom end i dont have time to **** around with this and then end up screwing up anyway.

Besides tapping cast iron is bout as easy as getting a fat woman out of an icecream parlor.

EDIT: Im thinking ill just drill it out and tap it, but the new bolt size will be bigger. dont i have to drill out all the **** that goes over this hole so they can fit too? Can someone please link me to a page that explains the ins and outs of drilling out broken studs and successfully tapping.

Daggar · Aug 1, 2005

Dbeck002 said:
I have no idea where to start. i might just buy a new bottom end i dont have time to **** around with this and then end up screwing up anyway.

Besides tapping cast iron is bout as easy as getting a fat woman out of an icecream parlor.

EDIT: Im thinking ill just drill it out and tap it, but the new bolt size will be bigger. dont i have to drill out all the **** that goes over this hole so they can fit too? Can someone please link me to a page that explains the ins and outs of drilling out broken studs and successfully tapping.

Nope... you have to remove the water pump. Drill the hole and the remaining bolt out. Tap it to accept a Helicoil, then reinstall the pump. The Helicoil that you use will thread into the bolt hole that you just drilled out and tapped and you can screw your new bolt into the Helicoil. Purchase the correct size Helicoil kit (sized for the bolt that you intend to use) then follow the instructions. It will tell you what size bit to use to drill the whole out and what size tap to use so that the coil threads in like it's supposed to.

Dbeck002 · Aug 1, 2005

This is what im thinking, ill drill out the inner shaft of the bolt and leave the bolt threads in the block threads and chase those out with a tap.

OR

completely drill out the threads of the block and tap new threads with larger tap, and use larger bolt size... Also requiring me to widen the hole of the timing cover and water pump (that isnt so bad though).

What can i do... Someome please chime in i have to leave on vacation in 3 days and cant leave the car like this...

Dbeck002 · Aug 1, 2005

Daggar said:
Nope... you have to remove the water pump. Drill the hole and the remaining bolt out. Tap it to accept a Helicoil, then reinstall the pump. The Helicoil that you use will thread into the bolt hole that you just drilled out and tapped and you can screw your new bolt into the Helicoil. Purchase the correct size Helicoil kit (sized for the bolt that you intend to use) then follow the instructions. It will tell you what size bit to use to drill the whole out and what size tap to use so that the coil threads in like it's supposed to.

This is cool... So where can i get a helicoil at? Pep boys? Autozone? Are they strong? Input = Gold

8950HO · Aug 1, 2005

Daggar said:
If welding a nut to the remaining bolt, heating, then hitting it with PB blaster doesn't work then I can just about guarantee yout hat an easy out won't work either. Drill, tap, and helicoil is about the only option left.

Agreed.The easy out will most likely break as well.

Daggar · Aug 1, 2005

Dbeck002 said:
This is cool... So where can i get a helicoil at? Pep boys? Autozone? Are they strong? Input = Gold

Any of those places should have Helicoil kits. Just make sure that you select your bolt and Helicoil at the same time to ensure a proper match.

Dbeck002 · Aug 1, 2005

I started drilling out the stud. I started with a 1/8 bit and worked my way up to a 5/32 using 1/64 intervals. I got it going in pretty straight. I will buy a remover, its like a fluted object with teeth that engages the more you turn it in the hole. I hope this gets it out, if not i cant think of anything else. BTW the hole isnt exactly centered so using larger and larger bits will just offset the location of the hole, this metal has to be removed one way or another.

Dbeck002 · Aug 1, 2005

Question:

The location of the broken stud is the top-left water pump bolt that goes through the pump and timing cover and into the block, right above the water jack port. It's a corner bolt which makes it unpredictable on what will happen if i install the pump without this bolt. I examined the pump, it seems like the structueral ribbing of the pump and the location of the two other nearest bolts will allow it to make a decent seal even with the missing bolt.

For example if I were to draw a line from the two outer bolts (with respect to the inner missing bolt) I could safely say that line intersects the water port. I'm optimistic it wouldnt leak but I just want to hear your input. I am having a hard time getting this bolt material out and I have to leave on vacation in 3 days and need my car running when i get back.

Ultimately, I think it will not leak if i use the usual RTV. Just because of the close proximity of the 2 outer bolts and their orientation with respect to the water jacket port. Input is important guys.

slow84lx · Aug 2, 2005

Dbeck002 said:
Question:

The location of the broken stud is the top-left water pump bolt that goes through the pump and timing cover and into the block, right above the water jack port. It's a corner bolt which makes it unpredictable on what will happen if i install the pump without this bolt. I examined the pump, it seems like the structueral ribbing of the pump and the location of the two other nearest bolts will allow it to make a decent seal even with the missing bolt.

For example if I were to draw a line from the two outer bolts (with respect to the inner missing bolt) I could safely say that line intersects the water port. I'm optimistic it wouldnt leak but I just want to hear your input. I am having a hard time getting this bolt material out and I have to leave on vacation in 3 days and need my car running when i get back.

Ultimately, I think it will not leak if i use the usual RTV. Just because of the close proximity of the 2 outer bolts and their orientation with respect to the water jacket port. Input is important guys.

I broke a bolt off in the same place 3 years ago. Like you I needed the car to drive to work and ended up leaving it like it was. No leaks so far and the car gets driven daily now. Good luck with yours.

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