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Broken Exhaust stud... dang

  • Thread starter Thread starter CornerCarvin67
  • Start date Start date Mar 24, 2010

CornerCarvin67

New Member
Dec 30, 2004
246
0
0
Mar 24, 2010
#1
  • Mar 24, 2010
  • #1
I'm taking off the factory mid pipe with cats last night and the last nut of the four that hold it to the manifolds is not coming off. I sprayed it with everything and finally it broke.

For some reason I get over the fact I'm screwed and continue with the install. I put the new pipe on there and was able to put quite a nice squeeze by just using the one nut on the remaining good stud. What are the chances this will be successful? Meaning.... will it leak?

I know the odds aren't good. But I don't want to buy headers and I'm not sure how to get the broken stud out. I could throw a bolt and nut on it then.

Sucks.

Another issue is the connection between the smog pipe would not seperate fromt the exhaust. Ended up hack sawing that. Can I put a rubber section between the two pipes or will it melt from heat? I guess I can try the hardware store for a section of thin wall tube.

Why do easy jobs blow up into **** holes??
 

SScott

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Apr 23, 2004
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Alabama
Mar 24, 2010
#2
  • Mar 24, 2010
  • #2
CornerCarvin67 said:
1. will it leak?
2. I'm not sure how to get the broken stud out.
3. Can I put a rubber section between the two pipes or will it melt from heat?
4. Why do easy jobs blow up into **** holes??
Click to expand...

1. Yes, if not right away then after it settles. Fix it dude, you will feel better about it.
2. Do you have a welder? If so, put a nut on it and weld in the middle then remove with a socket or wrench, If not, get a small torch from wal-mart or hardware store and heat the stud up real good and use vice-grips and it will come out. If it broke off flush, it is gonna take a lot more effort, you will have to drill and use an EZ out and if that doesn't work you will have to drill though and tap and maybe use a heli-coil.
3. Not for long. I would weld that also or get a small pipe and a few clamps.
4. Mr Murphy never rests...

You may want to pay and exhaust shop to fix it, it really shouldn't (I could be wrong) cost that much.
 

cjrpony

Member
Jan 23, 2010
439
0
17
West Michigan
Mar 25, 2010
#3
  • Mar 25, 2010
  • #3
SScott said:
You may want to pay and exhaust shop to fix it, it really shouldn't (I could be wrong) cost that much.
Click to expand...

On my very first Mustang (years ago) I had that happen to me also, except it was one on each header. I took it to a muffler shop and they took care of it. I think for like about 60 bucks, I don't remember, that was some 13 or 14 years ago. That was with the headers on the car. I bet if you take the header off and take it some place, they will do it for next to nothing.

Welding the nut on what is left of the stud is a good idea, I have done that trick several times and it usually works. But if you broke it of flush or close to it, it's going to be a PITA. You might almost be better off finding someone selling a set of headers for cheap and swapping it out. Stock headers can be had for almost nothing and a used set of shorties usually for about 80 to 100 bucks if you look around.
 
R

RatStang

New Member
Feb 11, 2010
544
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0
Mar 25, 2010
#4
  • Mar 25, 2010
  • #4
SScott said:
1. Yes, if not right away then after it settles. Fix it dude, you will feel better about it.
2. Do you have a welder? If so, put a nut on it and weld in the middle then remove with a socket or wrench, If not, get a small torch from wal-mart or hardware store and heat the stud up real good and use vice-grips and it will come out. If it broke off flush, it is gonna take a lot more effort, you will have to drill and use an EZ out and if that doesn't work you will have to drill though and tap and maybe use a heli-coil.
3. Not for long. I would weld that also or get a small pipe and a few clamps.
4. Mr Murphy never rests...

You may want to pay and exhaust shop to fix it, it really shouldn't (I could be wrong) cost that much.
Click to expand...

+1 on everything except for the easy out. lol

I've never had a lick of luck with an easy out. There's nothing easy about them. Being an exhaust component that's gone through numerous heat and corrosion cycles makes it even worse. If it's broke off flush, then dimple that Mo-Fo with center punch (the spring loaded versions are great for getting things started) then drill out the stud. When the hole is larger enough you an break ou tthe rest with a cold-chisel.

Like Sscott says though... lots and lots of heat helps make the process go better.

When reinstalling hardware. Use some high heat anti-sieze like Loc-tite copper. It'll make your next disassembly go MUCH easier.
 

CornerCarvin67

New Member
Dec 30, 2004
246
0
0
Mar 25, 2010
#5
  • Mar 25, 2010
  • #5
Thanks for the feedback guys. Much appreciated.

Unfortunately I do not have welder skills. Is the stud screwed into the flange
from the top side? Or is it pressed into the flange with splines? The stud is
still sticking out at least an inch from the flange where it broke.

I was thinking my best option would be to cut it flush and drill it out. Then
use a thru bolt and nut.

Remarkably it doesn't leak at the moment. I just had to get a taste of what
the car was going to sound like so I took it off the stands and went for a
ride around the block. With the dumps on and not having cats it sounds like
I added about a hundred cubic inches! Not bad at all for a stock cammed
engine.

I know that I have to fix that stud issue though. I really don't want to pull
the stock manifolds until I'm ready for headers and the possibilty something
else could go wrong or break.

Here in Wisconsin we value our driving months highly. So my car sitting
disabled with broken parts is not an option.

Thanks again for listening...
 

1987LXragtop

Member
Jan 26, 2008
837
3
18
Just outside Philly PA
Mar 25, 2010
#6
  • Mar 25, 2010
  • #6
Sounds like you may want to take it to a shop to get it fixed then. That sucks. I always use a torch to loosen nuts and bolts prior to ever trying to remove them ..not a helpful tip now though. GL with it
 

SScott

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Apr 23, 2004
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Alabama
Mar 25, 2010
#7
  • Mar 25, 2010
  • #7
DontGivaRatz said:
+1 on everything except for the easy out. lol

I've never had a lick of luck with an easy out. There's nothing easy about them.
Click to expand...

Thats funny! That is a pretty stupid name for that tool huh?

CornerCarvin67 said:
Remarkably it doesn't leak at the moment.
Click to expand...

Drive it man! Fix it in the winter or when you get the funds to upgrade! Talking about the little things getting out of hand... I just wanted to upgrade my 7.5" in the 86 and ended up building a completely different car that has an 8.8", thought I could do it in a month, now I feel silly for ever thinking that. =)
 

CornerCarvin67

New Member
Dec 30, 2004
246
0
0
Mar 25, 2010
#8
  • Mar 25, 2010
  • #8
Exactly.... the fact it isn't leaking will likely delay the fix. But like someone
else noted it will probably leak eventually.

Who knows...

I'll wait for a nice summer night with nothing else to do and decide to crack
a few beers while listening to the radio and fix it.

Still... I would like to know HOW those studs are installed. I may be able to
bust them back out the way they came if they're pressed.
 

krazedstang

15 Year Member
Mar 23, 2009
670
278
104
Streamwood
Mar 25, 2010
#9
  • Mar 25, 2010
  • #9
i had the same thing happen to my 88 Vert last month its been sitting in the garage since, but i did pick up a pair of bbk equal length headers a couple days ago for $80! so im going to get started on that this weekend...good luck
 
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