Broken Vacuum Lines. Need Help!

[Bmwz389]

Hey guys,

I've been all over google, looking at links, videos and images and can't source exactly where my vacuum lines go. I took a picture for reference. I had to take a break from working on it and now have no idea if my vacuum lines are right, and where the broken ones are supposed to mate. Can anyone help? Also, where does the red one near the EGR mate to?

Also, could this cause the engine to stall out and idle like ? I didn't think lines this small could attribute to a stalling situation.

Thanks!

 

[7991LXnSHO]

It looks like the plug/connector you are having trouble with goes to some of the emission controls. Tmoss and really useful diagrams to the rescue.
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/

Above are some diagrams I have found helpful putting emission controls back on my car. Here are the standard ones of where everything goes.

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88Stang5.0Vacuum.gif

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/mustangFoxFordVacuumDiagram.jpg

If I find the picture with the actual connector in it, I will post it too.

 

[7991LXnSHO]

Here is another discussion that says your red line goes to engine vac. It shows the coupler too. No wonder it is running rough.
http://mustangforums.com/forum/5-0l-1979-1995-mustang/677053-vacuum-diagram.html

 

[Bmwz389]

Okay, I looked over that image and fixed all my vacuum lines. I also found my fuel pump regulator to be plugged into the EGR valve...dunno how that happened. So I hooked it back up under the intake manifold on the back side.....

Sadly, it still stalls out. Same situation. I'm currently trying to source a total vacuum routing for under the hood. just in case I missed one.

 

[7991LXnSHO]

After the lines are all set, check for codes next, please.

 

[jrichker]

You guys with idle/stall problems could save a lot of time chasing your tails if you would go through the Surging Idle Checklist. Over 50 different people contributed information to it. The first two posts have all the fixes, and steps through the how to find and fix your idle problems without spending a lot of time and money. I continue to update it as more people post fixes or ask questions. You can post questions to that sticky and have your name and idle problem recognized. The guys with original problems and fixes get their posts added to the main fix.

It's free, I don't get anything for the use of it except knowing I helped a fellow Mustang enthusiast with his car. At last check, it had more than 159,000 hits, which indicates it does help fix idle problems quickly and inexpensively.

 

[Gearbanger 101]

At first glance, based on this pic I’m gonna give you my best guess

In order of appearance....


Upper black line runs across the firewall, to the vacuum source at the manifold tree under the upper intake manifold. (this will be the one with the red vacuum line going to it from the other end of the block)

Top white line to EGR (will have a green line coming in from the other end)

Other bottom white line to air diverter valve underneath it

Other long lack line to diverter valve at the front of the car, nearest the pollution pump

The vacuum line going to the rear of the manifold is your source line. You shouldn't get any vacuum at the EGR line at idle. If you've got a vacuum gauge, put it on the line and give the throttle a quick shot to 2,500RPM or so....you should see about 5 inches of vacuum. The rear diverter valve line (closest to the firewall also won't show any vacuum at idle). The long black line going to the front diverter valve will have strong vacuum on it most of the time. The vacuum being sent to each diverter valve will alternate based on conditions and signals sent by the ECU to the TAB/TAD sensors.

Get the lines hooked up, run it for codes an then report back.