Build pics, TFS headed 2v turbo car

[jtcstrat1]

Car is an 02 gt, it put down 512 on race gas on a mustang dyno, built motor, stock heads, maxed out vortech v1 s trim

old set up:

the car shattered the oil pump so i yanked the motor and decided to go a diff route. car is now a built 302 tekid stroker, tfs 2v heads, cams, return system, single turbo, built t56, yada yada car

here are some pics from day one, enjoy.

bye bye rustang..

new stuff

modifying turbo 4v headers to 2v

new motor

back in the car

new billet wheel turbo

finishing the hot/cold side, down pipe, exhaust, ect

Everything will be stuffed in this car:

 

[eliteJAE]

Absolutely SICK

that stance is sick, what springs/shocks are you using?

 

[d98gt]

Awesome looking vehicle

 

[Niterydr85]

wow holy crap thats awesome.

 

[jtcstrat1]

Absolutely SICK

that stance is sick, what springs/shocks are you using?

front is upr k member, upr a arms, upr coil overs with eibach springs, upr caster camber plates. rear is granatelli double adjustable lowers, upr uppers, eibach springs with strange 5 way adjustables.

thanks guys

 

[1991notchbackLX]

HOLY GOD that's awesome. Sick car!

Are you selling the old S-Trim setup? PM me if you are.

 

[Tanus]

nice, great color, no spoiler ftw

I think I just saw those hot parts on ebay for cheap, how's the fitment?

 

[SjStang00]

car is f***ing raw, both power-wise and look-wise. you goin to wreck everyone in your path!

 

[EvilTurkey]

I want that old setup too lol. PM me as well =P

 

[SteedaGT9150]

fawking saweet!

 

[Red35th]

That is going to be amazing when it's finished. Post details on the turbo kit (how much did you have to modify the flanges).

 

[CatmanJJ]

Geebuz, that's pretty sweet.

 

[tank_567]

sweet setup, what size turbo is that? Im running a 62mm precision turbo... well at the end of this week anyway

also whats with the two wastegates? I know my precision 38mm can hold up to around 25lb of boost, how much boost are you going to run?

 

[jtcstrat1]

Sry guys the old s trim was already sold.

Thanks for all the kind words

The turbo is a precision 76hps billet wheel .81a/r, the kit actually fit really good for what it was. Nothing against hellion or hp ect but I feel its crazy to pay 4k for their piping, I spend 200 on this kit. And it came with headers. It is thinner metal so their hotside might crack, but I can rebuild it and use it as a template. So for 200 I got headers and a decent template to work from, well worth imo if u have good fab skills. The headers were converted to 2v flanges, that's was a bit hard but I knew it would be. I will explain more later on that

As for the wastegates, I didn't like the location the kit came with, and its a lot better to run one for each side, holds boost better, better for the kit/turbo. I'm only gonna run a low pump gas tune and proly 18 to 20 lbs on race gas, its mainly a street car

 

[32ValveRom]

Damn, bro. This has to be one of the sickest series of pics I've seen in awhile

 

[Tanus]

Nothing against hellion or hp ect but I feel its crazy to pay 4k for their piping, I spend 200 on this kit. And it came with headers. It is thinner metal so their hotside might crack, but I can rebuild it and use it as a template.

I totally agree, the ebay/china stuff has a bad rap , but like you said its a good starting point, can replace/upgrade parts as they break or funds allow. Hopefully have mine boosted this summer, only looking to run like 6-8 psi

 

[jtcstrat1]

I totally agree, the ebay/china stuff has a bad rap , but like you said its a good starting point, can replace/upgrade parts as they break or funds allow. Hopefully have mine boosted this summer, only looking to run like 6-8 psi

yes, their kits are really nice, but i just didnt feel like spending that kind of money, these headers are a copy of HP or HPPs old shorty turbo headers. Hellion uses stock manifolds, yes you can make good power with stock manifolds but if im building a car, to this extent, its gonna get headers lol. Only worried about the kit cracking due to flexing, i am in the process of designing a brace to help this issue. I am going to cut the flex coupler out of the kit and that should help with this issue, plus mounting a tab to bolt to the bottom of the timing cover, off of the down pipe to help with support, a mixture of these things should help with cracking. No guarantees, but we will see.

I also see kits out there using mile steel or aluminized steel, both will rust and cause just and many problems as cracking and look like ****. The best option is building it from scratch with good materials. The entire coldside and hot side is built from scratch with good materials except the 2 merging pipes. so as i stated above, worst comes to worst i rebuild those 2 sections. it was worth the $200 imo.

I was very pleased with the fitment to be honest. I am running a UPR tubular k member and no ac. the kit is designed to run the down pipe on the drivers side, it says you cant have ac and can keep your power steering, which i did. but i dont see any possible way to run the down pipe on the drivers side, thats why it wraps back around to the passenger side.

They only complaints i have is my kit did not come with vbands like it was suppose to, and its been a PITA to try and deal with the company i got the kit from, very poor customer service, Time reaction out of California. IF any of you have worked with vbands/flanges you know they are all designed together, you cant really put a vband from one kit on a different flange. so i think i found ones that will work for now, and hoping it will not leak. but again, worst comes to worst i will rebuild it with new bands/flanges.

here is a pic of how i modified the headers from 4v to 2v, while keeping the entire kit in the same location.

We made a brace to hold the entire kit in the same location relative to the motor, while being able to unbolt the headers. (if this makes sense) Once the brace was bolted on the flange we could remove the headers and modify them without loosing the location of the kit to the motor. 4v flanges are oval, 2v is circle, so we cut each primary back where the tube returned back to circle, then added in new circle tubing back up to the new flanges. it was a PITA, have to be very careful that doing this doesnt throw off the way the kit sits in the engine bay, as it only had a 1/2" clearance from the flange to the water pump pulley. and be careful to double check after every weld thats put down because it starts to pull the metal.

sry, i tried to explain it the best i could, here are some pics to help.

Pic of the mount we made to keep the kit stationary as we took the headers off

here is a pic of the new 2v flanges

here is a pic of the compleated header, as you can see, the shiny metal is the kit, the dull metal is the new tubing we welded in, where shiny meets dull metal is where each primary returned back to circle from oval, where we spliced each new piece in.

 

[jtcstrat1]

A few more pics of the engine build, new tfs heads ect

 

[jtcstrat1]

Just a few more, finishing up the tubing, cold side is done, down pipe is done, need to route the wastegate piping back into the down pipe, modify the merge a bit and finish up the exhaust all the wat back in aluminum

 

[bakos24]

Oh man, that is nice! Keep us updated......