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Building engine cannot crack no anteifreeze

  • Thread starter Thread starter Creomod
  • Start date Start date Jan 14, 2024

Creomod

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#1
  • Jan 14, 2024
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I have my engine out my car it’s on a tire and I dumped most antifreeze out the engine but I’m not planning on dropping it back in till weekend.Should I be concerned it’s cold outside temp is 26 here in San Antonio. It’s under a carport and I have a blanket, a moving blanket and a car cover over it. Nothing will fall into it direct just making sure should I put antifreeze in it or doesn’t need it
 

Noobz347

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No worry at all. Even if water is still sitting in the block --and-- it freezes, it is not currently confined. Sitting on a stand, it has escape routes and room to expand.
 
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Creomod

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#3
  • Jan 15, 2024
  • #3
Noobz347 said:
No worry at all. Even if water is still sitting in the block --and-- it freezes, it is not currently confined. Sitting on a stand, it has escape routes and room to expand.
Click to expand...
It’s not on a stand it’s on a tire on ground I think I took most antizreeze out by leaning it forward tilting the front so water/antifreeze came out I have rad bottom hose on it and covered it with a sock the thermostat jousting I covered it with sock. The whole thing emigre I covered with blankets and shirts I piled stuff on it and I do have the lower intake glued back on(not in pic)
 

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Noobz347

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Creomod said:
It’s not on a stand it’s on a tire on ground I think I took most antizreeze out by leaning it forward tilting the front so water/antifreeze came out I have rad bottom hose on it and covered it with a sock the thermostat jousting I covered it with sock. The whole thing emigre I covered with blankets and shirts I piled stuff on it and I do have the lower intake glued back on(not in pic)
Click to expand...

The same conditions still exist. The engine is currently [open] with paths for expanding water to escape. So, nothing can go "PoP".
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
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#5
  • Jan 17, 2024
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If you've drained most of it out there are likely air pockets all around so plenty of room to expand into. Just tilt it around and try and let whatever is left in there out and oyu should be fine.

I'd be more concerned if it was a fully filled block like in a running engine.
 

Noobz347

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In the wild, the hose ports to and from the radiator are generally what freezes first (they're are out in open air).

When those freeze, they create plugs that trap everything inside the block. Then the block water freezes and nowhere to go. *Crack* or *Pop* can happen.

Both of yours are open. What little water that remains in the block has room to wiggle. It doesn't expand much but thermodynamics being what it is, will not be refused.
 
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Creomod

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#7
  • Jan 18, 2024
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Now I got a new issue I’m having a hard time stabbing my rebuild t5
 

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Noobz347

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Do you have a clutch alignment tool?
 
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AeroCoupe

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes
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Using the alignment tool typically means the trans will go right in. Every once in a while one will hang up the last 1/2” or less. I have someone get in the car and depress the clutch pedal and it will go the rest of the way home.

This is with the car up on jack stands but there is always a risk so be aware.
 
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Creomod

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#10
  • Jan 19, 2024
  • #10
Noobz347 said:
Do you have a clutch alignment tool?
Click to expand...
Yes I do
 

Creomod

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#11
  • Jan 19, 2024
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AeroCoupe said:
Using the alignment tool typically means the trans will go right in. Every once in a while one will hang up the last 1/2” or less. I have someone get in the car and depress the clutch pedal and it will go the rest of the way home.

This is with the car up on jack stands but there is always a risk so be aware.
Click to expand...
I’m assuming I just need to rotate the spline as I go in. Even though it’s out on the ground still not easy
 

limp

wrap a little cheese around it and its a done
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#12
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Funny how this seems to be an ongoing forum discussion elsewhere too.. I have never had problems installing a manual but did with the last time installing my new TKX on my mostly stock Explorer 302 while it was out of the car..
I had fit the pilot bearing and the clutch disc on the trans so I knew they fit.. Had my neighbor guy over to help and we still could not get it on..
Someone sells an alignment tool ( I think it was Hanlon's) that the pilot area is a couple of thousandths larger in Diameter so it is more " precise".. I ordered one and it did not make any difference.
What I ended up doing was attaching the bell housing to the transmission ( the fork and TO bearing were on it) and it slid right on.. Not sure why, but the two bellhousing dowels on the block were a great guide when doing it this way..
 
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CAMTWO1070

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#13
  • Jan 20, 2024
  • #13
limp said:
Funny how this seems to be an ongoing forum discussion elsewhere too.. I have never had problems installing a manual but did with the last time installing my new TKX on my mostly stock Explorer 302 while it was out of the car..
I had fit the pilot bearing and the clutch disc on the trans so I knew they fit.. Had my neighbor guy over to help and we still could not get it on..
Someone sells an alignment tool ( I think it was Hanlon's) that the pilot area is a couple of thousandths larger in Diameter so it is more " precise".. I ordered one and it did not make any difference.
What I ended up doing was attaching the bell housing to the transmission ( the fork and TO bearing were on it) and it slid right on.. Not sure why, but the two bellhousing dowels on the block were a great guide when doing it this way..
Click to expand...
When you put your new TKX on the Explorer 302 did you check bellhousing runout?

Not all cranks are on the same centerline and not all dowels are located the exact same either.

I used to think they were until I learned about core shift being more prevalent in the newer blocks than the older ones.. ...........

Whats funny is that most manual transmissions allow a .010" TIR on the flywheel runout but the TKO600 I installed said TIR was .001-.005".............

An overlooked thing like paint on the mating flange can throw off the alignment too..

For the transmission alignment issue : If you put the roller bearing in the bushing backwards it will make installing the trans a real PITA........One end of the roller bearing is a tad more open than on the other end and when installed the input shaft never protrudes from the other end.......

When oriernted right you shouldnt see any numbers or markings...Even the people assembling them make mistakes from time to time..


Having this type can really give you a headache as the solid sleeve isnt really designed for brand spanking new transmissions and you really need to be laser straight to get both together...



Good Luck
 

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Last edited: Jan 20, 2024
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limp

wrap a little cheese around it and its a done
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#14
  • Jan 20, 2024
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CAMTWO1070 said:
When you put your new TKX on the Explorer 302 did you check bellhousing runout?

Not all cranks are on the same centerline and not all dowels are located the exact same either.

I used to think they were until I learned about core shift being more prevalent in the newer blocks than the older ones.. .....
Click to expand...
Sure did as the installation instructions make a strong point that this is must on Tremec transmissions ... The original SROD bell that came out of the 83 was within specs using stock dowels.....
 
Last edited: Jan 20, 2024
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CAMTWO1070

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#15
  • Jan 20, 2024
  • #15
limp said:
Sure did as the installation instructions make a strong point that this is must on Tremec transmissions ... The original SROD bell that came out of the 83 was within specs using stock dowels.....
Click to expand...

Thats great to see and hear..............

So many overlook the process thinking if the T-5 trans was smooth then the new trans will be too using the same bellhousing and thats not the case .

Another thng for referrence and peace of mind concerning a possible freezing...What I found out the hard way was I had the wrong ratio of water to antifreeze and dropped the level down to the waterpump holes and removed the pump in preperation to do a T-Chain job and its apparent the water froze in the exposed area first and created an ice cap damaging the block...

Had I just taken 10 more mins and removed the block drain plugs the problem could of been avoided.............

Heres where they are on a 289, 302 and a 351................





When you start road testing the transmission and 5th gear and reverse feels odd or you get alot of glitter in your break-in oil it might be in your best interest to remove the trans and the rear tailcover...

Its been known that Tremec doesnt dimple the dimple nut on the end of the shaft good enough causing it to back off damaging the case and the loss of 5th gear inside of 500 miles....

When you look at a new nit its already pre dimpled and gives the illusion of being a set it and forget it item...



Good Luck
 

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Creomod

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Jan 23, 2024
#16
  • Jan 23, 2024
  • #16
It was the throw out bearing. I bought a McLeod kit and it’s throw out bearing would not fit over the new steel retainer. I ordered one from ram
 
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