Building up a Carbed 2.3 Turbo

chaka · Feb 8, 2004

I have the complete engine. The block is going to need the ridge reamed, but once this is performed do you think a hone is needed? I can see the original cross hatching. Plan on installing some dished forged pistons and rods from an 88 TC to lower compression. and pick up a new carb for it (any suggestions? engine will be for a street driven car with twisties in mind). Mild porting and gasket matching. Any suggestions for head gasket?

Any information at all would be appreciated. Thanks

Do you guys know where I can pick up the crossunder tube that supplies the turbo??

78CobraII · Feb 9, 2004

I've only re-built one stock 2.3L engine, so I'm no expert. But I am wondering how you have a ridge at the top and can still see the cross hatching. Personally I would hone it if the pistons are large enough to still fit afterwards.

Which head are you using?

What is the pattern of the carb mount on the turbo intake side like? Holley 2bbl? Weber 2bbl? What happened to the stock carb? I would stick to something around 350-390 cfm until you know that you need more.

I've seen pics of this setup, but never one close up. In fact one sold on eBay a few months ago and I was mighty tempted...until I looked at the projects I already had going!

On the cross under, you would probably have to have a custom one made since you are going into a different chassis. I'd look at getting the shop to use mandrel bent tubing angles or have them bend a larger than stock diameter pipe.

chaka · Feb 9, 2004

Maybe I was seeing things, but I thought I did. Will obviously check again. engine is just sitting now.

I have the stock carb, but it is in rough shape and would need a rebuild. I guess I am going the lazy route by just not rebuilding. I will budget in a new carb and see what floats.

I have the stock head. was told a turbo cam and ranger rollers would be a good choice with lots of porting.

It would be awhile before I would get the engine together. I still have to finish up my 79 stang. just want everything on paper. (like that will happen)

78CobraII · Feb 9, 2004

I was told to buy the early cast roller followers to fit my oval port MII 2.3L head.

I picked up a set but haven't put them in yet. Supposedly this cam has a more agressive profile than a flat-tappet cam due to the roller followers which makes more torque. It may be that you need an adjustable cam gear to make the most of your turbo.

My abblication is carb'd too, but not turbo. I picked up a Offy 4bbl intake and Holley 390 cfm carb which should provide some entertainment. At least in the installation.

queensryche · Feb 18, 2004

The merkur xr4ti or the thunderbird turbocoupe both have a nice slider cam in them stock that should work well.

Ive run all or them including the factory svo cam and the ranger roller with a adjustable cam sprocket, but I think for everyday banging gears the merkur has the hottest cam profile for the stockers (theres alot of debate on this, but it is only my opinion).

Blocks....the late 80s turbo block is dif than a carbed one, before I waisted the time on redoing a stock block, I would just locate a turbo block it has the right pistons you need to run a good amount of boost (good pistons for boost run lots of money), I find lots of them with cracked heads but the block always seems to be good.

Good luck Ive been wanting to do this for awhile now, ever since i got my pinto done.

Steve Q

chaka · Feb 18, 2004

I have a totaled 90 ranger that I was going to take the upper valvetrain off of. I already purchased dished TC pistons last year for cheap money. and I have the original complete engine disassembled. I just need to find some time to start putting it together.

I will keep my eye out for the other cams though. I will keep you guys posted, but it will be a slow build up. Thanks.

Joeverb · Feb 18, 2004

chaka said:
I have the stock head. was told a turbo cam and ranger rollers would be a good choice with lots of porting.

Is serious porting really necessary with a boost application? I mean i can see port matching and polishing but i wouldnt think the amount of power gained from hogging them out would be worth the effort.

chaka · Feb 18, 2004

I have no #'s but I feel that the advise was sound and from a reliable and proven source. Ask in the 2.3 turbo section. They will provide you with better info.

a351Must2 · Feb 18, 2004

Joeverb said:
Is serious porting really necessary with a boost application? I mean i can see port matching and polishing but i wouldnt think the amount of power gained from hogging them out would be worth the effort.

You can either seriously port the head and run lower boost, which is more street fuel friendly, or just port match and make up for the poor flow with boost which increases the octane requirement.

So far I've only driven my new 2.3L Turbo at 9psi of boost, but my rear-end (butt) tells me it's pretty darn close to as fast as my old engine was at 14psi. The biggest difference at the time was a ported head and ported intake. Of course, it's all apart again getting a Holset turbo, header, and the intercooler installed finally. Can't wait to get bigger injectors and an EEC Tuner on there so I can try the newest setup at 25psi.

chaka · Feb 18, 2004

Well port matching it is. Was not looking forward to hogging it anyway.

Turbo Matty P · Feb 18, 2004

I've got a carbbed turbo motor I'm parting out if you'd like anything. Motor and turbo's have less than 3K miles on them but are about 3 years old. I was tired of blowing up carbs when I lift off the gas. There is no factory BOV or discharge valve so the boost would back up the carb and blow the power valve everytime...After 3 carbs and 2 turbos I realized I was going EFI....I also have the custom Underpipe if you need it along with a full 2.5" cat-less exhaust with Dynomax RAGE MAgnum muffler with 3" polished tip....looks good, sounds good.

I was running 10psi on the stock turbo FYI. the carb was a Holley 500cfm 2bbl.

chaka · Feb 18, 2004

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