Building up a new 5.0 roller block - Questions

[C0V3R]

Due to some unfortunate happenings with my original motor - PO overported the exhaust ports and had a small water leak into one cyclinder.

Anyway - I am looking at getting a shortblock brand new ( Ford Racing 302ci / 5.0L ''Production'' Short Block Engine Assembly) and building it up, but I have some questions.

1 - I know I will need a 3 hole 50oz balancer in order to hook up to my crank pulley - will I need to get the setup balanced by a shop?
2 - I am not sure if I will need a new flexplate to hook up to my old c4. If I do need a new flexplate what sort/model do I need?
3 - Will my old timing cover fit? I believe based on what I've read that it will, though I may need to block off the new oil disptic hole in the block
4 - What sort of cam/heads would I need to see around 300-350 flywheel horsepower? Needs to be streetable as this is the main purpose.
5 - Do short blocks come with the "spider" for the lifters?
6 - Is there anything else to watch out for?

I have a weiand single plane or an edelbrock performer to use as an intake, full msd ignition and a set of roller rockers and tri-y's ready to go on whatever I build.

Thanks!

 

[RMODEL65]

1 just get the balancer form npd for the 50oz engine with the 3 bolt arrangement
2yes 50oz with the correct tooth count u will have to count urs either 157 or 164
3yes it will work but there will not a provision for the fuel pump excentric on the cam u will have to get it from urs and maybe a different timing set to accomodate this
take a wodden dowel rod and drive it in the hole for the late model dipstick it will swell up and make a good seal!
4 iron gt40ps! and they are cheap also
6 no

i suggest a late model explorer/mountaineer motor from a 98-01 it features gt40ps heads and a roller cam add an aftermarket cam and u will see 300hp this is the same motor as a 93-95 5.0 cobra but with a smaller cam u can pick these up with warrantys for about 1000$ u cant beat that with a stick!!

 

[SoCalCruising]

Take rotating assy, incl flexplate and balancer, to shop for balancing and for trial fitting of balancer to crank snout. Balancer may have to be honed for fit.

While you are having this done, tap the dipstick hole in the block and insert a brass plug. Clean block carefully of all debris from tapping hole.

Most alum heads will get you to 300-350 fwhp. How much $$ do you have to spend? AFR 165s are, perhaps, the best out-of-the-box heads you can buy. If your roller cam is mild, their standard springs will be okay.

 

[D.Hearne]

1 just get the balancer form npd for the 50oz engine with the 3 bolt arrangement
2yes 50oz with the correct tooth count u will have to count urs either 157 or 164
3yes it will work but there will not a provision for the fuel pump excentric on the cam u will have to get it from urs and maybe a different timing set to accomodate this
take a wodden dowel rod and drive it in the hole for the late model dipstick it will swell up and make a good seal!
4 iron gt40ps! and they are cheap also
6 no

i suggest a late model explorer/mountaineer motor from a 98-01 it features gt40ps heads and a roller cam add an aftermarket cam and u will see 300hp this is the same motor as a 93-95 5.0 cobra but with a smaller cam u can pick these up with warrantys for about 1000$ u cant beat that with a stick!!

He can equal the GT40P heads just by porting E7TE's that the Stangs, pickups and vans had. The difference between the 94-up truck/van 5.0's cam and the GT40 cam from the Cobra Stangs, is miniscule. We're talking .030 lift just on the intake side( that can be made up with 1.7 rockers, exhaust is the same) and 14 degrees duration on the intake side, 4 degrees on the exhaust. Sometimes the price difference just ain't worth it. GT40P's also have issues on header fit due to the different spark plug angles, something to think about.

 

[5.0ina66]

1 just get the balancer form npd for the 50oz engine with the 3 bolt arrangement
2yes 50oz with the correct tooth count u will have to count urs either 157 or 164
3yes it will work but there will not a provision for the fuel pump excentric on the cam u will have to get it from urs and maybe a different timing set to accomodate this
take a wodden dowel rod and drive it in the hole for the late model dipstick it will swell up and make a good seal!
4 iron gt40ps! and they are cheap also
6 no

i suggest a late model explorer/mountaineer motor from a 98-01 it features gt40ps heads and a roller cam add an aftermarket cam and u will see 300hp this is the same motor as a 93-95 5.0 cobra but with a smaller cam u can pick these up with warrantys for about 1000$ u cant beat that with a stick!!

BAD ADVICE!

1) NPD will screw you in the earhole for 5.0 swap parts. Summit has a 3-bolt conversion dampner, Summit brand $70

2) If a 164t use a 85 351W car flexplate, if a 157t use a '81 Mustang 255 flexplate....$47 from autozone either way

3) You'll probably need a new eccentric, but you can use the existing timing set. Use the vintage cover, dipstick, oilpan, and pickup.

**Plug the hole with a 1/8" freeze plug. I know a dowel will work, but that's a little too cheese-ball for me.

4) Ported stock, 289, E7TE, or 351W heads, or if you can find a set of plain GT40s (I'd rather not screw with the GT40Ps but it ain't rocket science)

For Cam, look at the TFS #1 or better yet Speed-Pro CS195R..cheap too

5) I suppose so, I think they come with the cam installed.
6) Not really.
HTH
--Kyle

 

[D.Hearne]

2) If a 164t use a 85 351W car flexplate, if a 157t use a '81 Mustang 255 flexplate....$47 from autozone either way
--Kyle

Bad advice here too. You cannot use any 351W flexplates on a 50 oz balance 5.0, they were all 28 oz. B&M 50 oz flexplate thru Summit is what he'd need, it sells for around $50.

 

[mikemustang289]

If you're gonna reuse your early timing cover make sure and use an early timing set. Roller timing sets are wider and will cause clearance issues with the eccentric and timing cover.

I'm in the middle of the same swap right now. Summit brand balancers are nice and I would recommend them as well, they have removeable weights, both bolt patterns 3 & 4, and 3 sets of engraved timing marks. Some of these balancers, particularly the Professional products stuff, have painted on timing marks that will wear off.

I tapped the dipstick hole, 1/8 NPT tap and got a threaded plug at the hardware store.

Other than that, not much is different.

 

[5.0ina66]

Bad advice here too. You cannot use any 351W flexplates on a 50 oz balance 5.0, they were all 28 oz. B&M 50 oz flexplate thru Summit is what he'd need, it sells for around $50.

Ah, crap you're right, I was thinking early 302 & AOD when I got to that!

 

[The Dan]

Most aftermarket Ford balancers now have mounting for 3 or 4 holes. Some of the better I have seen are Romac, Summit brand (which are Australian made and very good quality), and Pioneer. I have run Summit and Pioneer, both seem to work fine.

I picked up a TCP 157t 50oz Flexplate for my 5.0 swap. It was cheap and a direct fit, while your at it you may want to step up your torque converter as well to get better performance from your new engine. Maybe a TCP Sat. Night Special which is around 2200 stall.

If your looking for 300-350fwhp, for the money I'd go Edelbrock if budget allows. A lot of bang for the buck there.

You can use your original timing cover, or you can do what I did and buy a new one from Ford Racing that works with the early motors and water pumps AND has a dip stick provision cast in. Very clean and direct install.

Things to look out for: Nothing really. The parts are mostly interchangable and it should drop right in. Only problem I had is the motor mounts were put on backwards. Forgot there is a left and a right so the spacing was off. Swithched that and everything just bolted right on. Pretty easy really.

Good luck.