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  • 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-
  • SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech

BULLITT CLUSTER INSTALLED!!!!

  • Thread starter Thread starter mcmmotorsports
  • Start date Start date Nov 1, 2004
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Mr GT 02

New Member
Apr 8, 2004
548
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0
Peabody, MA
Nov 2, 2004
#21
  • Nov 2, 2004
  • #21
Hey GT-03

That looks awsome! I want one now! When you installed the autometer cluster is it easy? Is it basically a plug and go installation? Did you have to adjust anything? How much did you pay?
 
S

samjluck

New Member
Jan 6, 2004
27
0
0
Nov 2, 2004
#22
  • Nov 2, 2004
  • #22
the autometer gauge cluster looks like it is in the 425 range and looks to be plug and play
 

Mr GT 02

New Member
Apr 8, 2004
548
0
0
Peabody, MA
Nov 2, 2004
#23
  • Nov 2, 2004
  • #23
the autometer cluster lookz better than the bullitt cluster heh
 

ken04GT

New Member
Oct 20, 2004
18
0
0
Arlington, Virginia
Nov 2, 2004
#24
  • Nov 2, 2004
  • #24
yea, nice
 
0

02 blk GT

Founding Member
Oct 27, 2002
132
0
0
Houston TX
Nov 2, 2004
#25
  • Nov 2, 2004
  • #25
I think all of the small gauges are accurate except for the oil pressure.
 

GT-03

Member
Dec 12, 2003
630
1
16
Nov 2, 2004
#26
  • Nov 2, 2004
  • #26
Mr GT 02 said:
Hey GT-03

That looks awsome! I want one now! When you installed the autometer cluster is it easy? Is it basically a plug and go installation? Did you have to adjust anything? How much did you pay?
Click to expand...

:worship: Thanks.

It was basic "plug and go". I took my time making sure I didn't scratch it, and that I didn't break anything. The instructions are quite clear and complete. It took less than an hour.

I compared the readings with the "test mode" odometer digital readings afterward. The tach was dead-on. The speedometer is off by about 2 mph. That wasn't enough, for me, to tear it all apart again to pull-off the needle and move it. So, I just left it. BTW, I never thought to check the original factory gauge cluster so I have no idea how close it agreed with the "test mode" odometer readings.

I lucked out and got mine (slightly) used off of eBay.
 

mcmmotorsports

Member
Apr 12, 2004
689
0
17
Danbury, CT
Nov 2, 2004
#27
  • Nov 2, 2004
  • #27
Here it is lit up at night:



BTW, the tach is off 250 RPM, I will fix that here shortly and the MPH is off 1.5. I will leave that alone since it will slow me down a bit

This is a REALLY easy mod that everyone should do if you can find one.

:edit:Fixed the Tach, just popped off the Plastic Mask, set the Self Diag mode or could've used my Predator, popped off the needle with a fork and put it back on at 750 RPM where it should be. NOW, the Cluster is perfect.

Just call me the Original Bullitt Cluster F U K
 

Spreadman

two wheels
Founding Member
Nov 29, 1999
10,904
3
0
Houston, TX
Nov 2, 2004
#28
  • Nov 2, 2004
  • #28
mcmmotorsports said:
If you are refering to the Bullitts, they light up white. $125
Click to expand...
I must have it. Please let me know if you see another one for sale.
 

mcmmotorsports

Member
Apr 12, 2004
689
0
17
Danbury, CT
Nov 3, 2004
#29
  • Nov 3, 2004
  • #29
Spreadman said:
I must have it. Please let me know if you see another one for sale.
Click to expand...
Do what I did...check IMBOC.com and search the swap meet for Cluster
 
S

showstopper2

Founding Member
Apr 16, 2001
425
0
0
New Bedford, Ma.
Nov 3, 2004
#30
  • Nov 3, 2004
  • #30
isn't the 03-04 Mach 1 cluster the same as the bullitt? I can't remember off hand cause I drove one last year........my memory isn't that great anymore LOL!! if it is the same cluster it should also work the same way right?
 

mcmmotorsports

Member
Apr 12, 2004
689
0
17
Danbury, CT
Nov 3, 2004
#31
  • Nov 3, 2004
  • #31
Yes, BUT the redline on the Mach 1 is higher. 6,200 opposed to 5,800 of the Bullitt and GT
 

AdRock

Member
Nov 13, 2003
521
1
19
South Texas
Nov 3, 2004
#32
  • Nov 3, 2004
  • #32
mcmmotorsports said:
Here it is lit up at night:



:edit:Fixed the Tach, just popped off the Plastic Mask, set the Self Diag mode or could've used my Predator, popped off the needle with a fork and put it back on at 750 RPM where it should be. NOW, the Cluster is perfect.
Click to expand...


Since tonight I should be recieving the cluster I bought could you post a step process on what you did to correct the tach. Since I haven't had a chance to purchase the factory manuals I'm not 100% sure how to get it into diag mode. I can pop off the needle but I need to know how to get it into diag. mode and then what to do from there. Any info is much appreciated.
 
G

GinoGT

Founding Member
Aug 11, 2002
1,862
0
36
Nov 3, 2004
#33
  • Nov 3, 2004
  • #33
AdRock said:
Since tonight I should be recieving the cluster I bought could you post a step process on what you did to correct the tach. Since I haven't had a chance to purchase the factory manuals I'm not 100% sure how to get it into diag mode. I can pop off the needle but I need to know how to get it into diag. mode and then what to do from there. Any info is much appreciated.
Click to expand...

Put the key in the ignition and turn it to "Run" or whatever click before cranking the engine on is. Hold the little reset button on the clutster down for a few seconds. You'll know when to let off, it'll go go "gage" or something first....all the lights will come on and the gauges will sweep all the way up then come down. You can turn the car on now, it'll continue to be in this mode until you shut the car off.

Then just push the instrument cluster button to cycle through all the modes. It'll do speedometer and metric speedometer readings too. My needles are almost dead-on.
 

AdRock

Member
Nov 13, 2003
521
1
19
South Texas
Nov 3, 2004
#34
  • Nov 3, 2004
  • #34
GinoGT said:
Put the key in the ignition and turn it to "Run" or whatever click before cranking the engine on is. Hold the little reset button on the clutster down for a few seconds. You'll know when to let off, it'll go go "gage" or something first....all the lights will come on and the gauges will sweep all the way up then come down. You can turn the car on now, it'll continue to be in this mode until you shut the car off.

Then just push the instrument cluster button to cycle through all the modes. It'll do speedometer and metric speedometer readings too. My needles are almost dead-on.
Click to expand...


Nice. Thanks for the info man. After being a mechanic for so long I feel so stupid for asking a simple question like this. However, I've never had to use the Stang cluster diag. Anyways, enough useless rambling. Thanks.
 

DTMach1

New Member
Jun 14, 2004
240
0
0
Virginia Beach, VA
Nov 3, 2004
#35
  • Nov 3, 2004
  • #35
yes the bullit cluster and the mach cluster are the same...with minor variations...

on the Auto Mach-1 the redline is 5800 RPM

on the Manual it is 6800RPM

also both say "premium fuel only" right above the gas tank locator arrow
 

Cobra Jay

Member
Apr 7, 2004
889
0
16
Motor City
Nov 3, 2004
#36
  • Nov 3, 2004
  • #36
mcmmotorsports said:
I did have to swap the circuit board with my original one, but the install was a snap.
Click to expand...


I just picked up my MACH1 cluster yesterday.

I was so stoked that when I got home I hooked it up.I just had to see what it was going to look like. Turned the key on and the tach and speedo needles both went to the max ,and then went back to zero.

Only problem is, when I went to start the car it would turn over, but it wouldn't start. I put the GT cluster back in and it fired right up. I even disconnected the battery to reset the computer and it still wouldn't start.

I'm assuming that the reason it won't start is because of the circut board needs to be switched. Could you explain what I need to do.

BTW the cluster is for a Mach1 auto, so my redline is right where it should be.
 

mcmmotorsports

Member
Apr 12, 2004
689
0
17
Danbury, CT
Nov 3, 2004
#37
  • Nov 3, 2004
  • #37
On the back of the cluster, there is a white cover that covers the circuit board. Remove the cover, carefully remove the plug in the center, carefully lift the board from the cluster and do the same for your old one. Now, reinstall your old board on the new cluster and you are straight.
 

Cobra Jay

Member
Apr 7, 2004
889
0
16
Motor City
Nov 3, 2004
#38
  • Nov 3, 2004
  • #38
mcmmotorsports said:
On the back of the cluster, there is a white cover that covers the circuit board. Remove the cover, carefully remove the plug in the center, carefully lift the board from the cluster and do the same for your old one. Now, reinstall your old board on the new cluster and you are straight.
Click to expand...


That's it?

No disconnecting the battery,cycling the key on and off, or anything else?
 

AdRock

Member
Nov 13, 2003
521
1
19
South Texas
Nov 4, 2004
#39
  • Nov 4, 2004
  • #39
GinoGT said:
Put the key in the ignition and turn it to "Run" or whatever click before cranking the engine on is. Hold the little reset button on the clutster down for a few seconds. You'll know when to let off, it'll go go "gage" or something first....all the lights will come on and the gauges will sweep all the way up then come down. You can turn the car on now, it'll continue to be in this mode until you shut the car off.

Then just push the instrument cluster button to cycle through all the modes. It'll do speedometer and metric speedometer readings too. My needles are almost dead-on.
Click to expand...

I did this tonight and noticed one thing. You have to hold the reset button down while you turn the key to the accessory position. Then when "test" pops up on the display you have to let go of the reset button before the test text dissapears.
 

mcmmotorsports

Member
Apr 12, 2004
689
0
17
Danbury, CT
Nov 4, 2004
#40
  • Nov 4, 2004
  • #40
GT JAY said:
That's it?

No disconnecting the battery,cycling the key on and off, or anything else?
Click to expand...

Well, anytime you are doing anything electrical on your car the battery should be disconnected anyways.
But yes, that is it. No other steps needed.
 
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