Bullitt Intake Port and Polish

torchred

New Member
Feb 9, 2004
44
0
0
Clarksville, Tn
Well my intake arrived. :) So i have alot of work to do when my bits get here. :)

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Obviously i have a lot of porting and polishing to do to make this thing nice. Have any of you ever done any of this work?

I will post pictures as i go, so hopefully others will learn as i go (same as i will :) )
 
Very cool. Did u get it off Ebay for a good price? Also, i hope you plan on getting blown soon because i see no other real reason for upgrading to the Bullitt manifold....the price isn't worth the minimal gains. But then again, with P&P, you never know. Best of luck to you and keep us updated:nice:
 
Yea good luck. The intake sure looks badass though IMO. I talked to a guy who once did the swap and he said it was a PITA for the cost of it. All that I remember is that at minimum you need a new alternator and bracket, plus a host of other things.
 
Are you asking P&p in general? Or Bullit P&P?
In general. you want as smooth and radius as possible for smooth airflow. Had a REAL good Shop tell me it's more important for it to be smooth than to be as big as possible. Also get something to mark with and match everything together as much as you can.
Of course you'll start with more aggressive stuff and move to smoother. I've found a bit that is kinda tear shape works well for getting in tight areas. I also found with a dremel the Flapwheel bits take an amazing amount of material off quickly, they just wear out super fast.
When I did a lil awhile back I used the highspeed cut off to get it close, then a combination of sanding drums and flapwheels to get it how I wanted it then went back over that with the rubber polishing wheels. smooth as glass. I then used the carbine tear shape bit in a air grinder and followed with the flap wheel and a rubber polish bit and got just as good a result in alot less time.
 
Thanks for the comments.

HoustonGT: Also, i hope you plan on getting blown soon because i see no other real reason for upgrading to the Bullitt manifold....the price isn't worth the minimal gains.

I think i got that taken care of as well. :)
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This is my buddies wife, holding my Paxton Novi 2000. :) I am in iraq so i am having most of my toys shipped to their house. I also have a set of custom grind cams and comp cams valve springs sitting at the house.

This intake i got for $900 shipped to me out here in iraq. :) Not a steal, but not bad either. the only thing i have to do still is get the alternator and alternator bracket (~$180), unless somebody on here knows how to modify the stock GT alt / bracket to fit??? As you can see the intake has the fuel rails, t-stat housing, throttle body, and wiring harness already on it. I also need to get the throttle / cruise control cable ($30-40).

As far as the P&p questions: i was asking for basically any info i could get. I have heard from PLENTY of sources that you DO NOT want it "smooth as glass". That is the texture you want on the exhuast side of a head, to help prevent carbon buildup and to increase exiting air volume. On the intake side you want a slightly textured finish, this helps increase atomization of the fuel as far as i've heard.
 
sorry, i have never really seen much of this on the forums here so i have a few questions.... whats the difference between the bullit and gt intake manifolds? why not port and polish the gt intake? how much hp/torque would the give on n/a? on a centri type blower? i guess what i am not understanding is why spend $900? thanks alot for the info...
 
The GT intake manifold is plastic for one thing, so you can't port it really, and because it is plastic, you don't really need to polish it. The Bullitt manifold is the performance manifold for the PI engine as the SVO manifold is to the Non-PI engine. There are 2 other reputable performance manifolds for the 2V GT engine, the Reichard Racing intake, and the P-51 intake. They all seem to benchmark themselves against the Bullitt at least that is the way i see it. Like many cars are compared to the Vette, (as in faster then the new Vette, handles like a new vette, so expensive you might as well have bought a vette), many people compare these intakes to the Bullitt. I believe the RR may be better in a well built motor that revs high, but the bullitt is great for building power on a power adder motor. One problem many ppl have with the bullitt is it's price, generally when you have purchased everything required you'll end up having spent ~1400-1900 to make the conversion. The gains on a NA setup are generally not considered worth the money spent, to really see gains you want alot of air flowing through the manifold. A built cammed motor with worked over heads would see a respectable increase, but not your average bolt on motor.
 
Mine is extrude honed. Many people argue against the bullit for na purposes but mine was well worth it. With most curves cars peak and then drop off. Mine peaks around 4900 and doesn't drop off till past 6.


This is a dyno of a run before I installed the stroker....
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torchred said:
Thanks for the comments.



I think i got that taken care of as well. :)
normal_Staight%20hair%202005%20009.jpg

This is my buddies wife, holding my Paxton Novi 2000. :) I am in iraq so i am having most of my toys shipped to their house. I also have a set of custom grind cams and comp cams valve springs sitting at the house.

This intake i got for $900 shipped to me out here in iraq. :) Not a steal, but not bad either. the only thing i have to do still is get the alternator and alternator bracket (~$180), unless somebody on here knows how to modify the stock GT alt / bracket to fit??? As you can see the intake has the fuel rails, t-stat housing, throttle body, and wiring harness already on it. I also need to get the throttle / cruise control cable ($30-40).

As far as the P&p questions: i was asking for basically any info i could get. I have heard from PLENTY of sources that you DO NOT want it "smooth as glass". That is the texture you want on the exhuast side of a head, to help prevent carbon buildup and to increase exiting air volume. On the intake side you want a slightly textured finish, this helps increase atomization of the fuel as far as i've heard.
:shrug: You got fuel flowing through your intake??? I know I do but I am injecting it with my nitrous otherwise yours only has AIR flowing through it. Now for a carb app you are correct you want a little texture for fuel atomization but once again we are talking about a DRY intake here not a wet. but hey do whatever you feel better at doing.
 
I know what you mean by it being a dry intake. I'm just goin by what i have read, since i obviously have no experience at this. I thought on the intake side you always want some texture, I suppose you are right, in the intake itself there is no atomization process, that all should take place directly after the intake, in the intake runners of the heads. So you think i would see more improvements by going to a smooth as glass surface? I have nothin but time so doin that wouldn't bother me in the least. :)

Well here are some updated pics. I just got my port and polish bits from Summit Racing today. :)

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She looks purdy now. I haven't started on the runners in the intake manifold itself yet. I just did all the easy stuff tonight to get a feel for it. Can't wait to start tearin into the runners. :) I think i'll order a pencil die grinder so i can get a lil deeper in there, i know it is not possible to hit 100% of the runners, but i'd like to do more then i'll be able to get with my straight die grinder.
 
LS2 KLR : those are some badass numbers from a NA engine. Though i assume the 512 HP was hit on the juice. Awesome numbers. :)

I will be installing the Novi2k and the cams then i will take her to the dyno for tweaks of the tune that MPH sends. I'll be taking her to the dyno at MPH in atlanta. AFTER i have those numbers i will swap in the bullitt intake and get THOSE numbers. I am interested to see EXACTLY how much a worked bullitt intake gets you on a supercharged 2V. I will, of course, post all results up here. :)
 
Sweet hope to see all the work payoff for you. Of course that's alot of cash to fork over for everyone else benefit and my hat's off to you.

My Logic is air likes as smooth and unobsturcted flow as possible. We all know this from basic aero's. So I see a nice smooth as possible finish on a dry intake as better, of course I have no data to back up my thought process. Now it seems most Ported heads still have a little texture to them so whichever. Just don't leave any major flashing in there.
I guess I just like shiny. :)
 
Makes sense to me. The port and polish info that i've gotten most of my information from was an explanation of how to do the heads. And I know fuel and air are flowing through THOSE intake runners. But my feeling is, with the dramatic change between the stock finish and the finish i've put on it so far, i'm bound to see some improvement. It may not be the most impressive improvement, but hell, i'm doin this mainly to stay busy during my free-time. :)
 
torchred said:
LS2 KLR : those are some badass numbers from a NA engine. Though i assume the 512 HP was hit on the juice. Awesome numbers. :)

I will be installing the Novi2k and the cams then i will take her to the dyno for tweaks of the tune that MPH sends. I'll be taking her to the dyno at MPH in atlanta. AFTER i have those numbers i will swap in the bullitt intake and get THOSE numbers. I am interested to see EXACTLY how much a worked bullitt intake gets you on a supercharged 2V. I will, of course, post all results up here. :)


Thanks, right now its making 325+rwhp na and about 530/650 on the gas. Peak numbers are definately nice but I just love how it peaks early and stays flat past 6k.