causes your steering wheel to turn slightly as your front suspension cycles up and down, as when the car goes over a bump, or when the body rolls in a corner, or when the front end dives during heavy braking. This "self steering" happens because the tie rods and control arms are moving in different arcs. That causes the tie rod end to pull (toe in) the front wheel as the suspension goes up and push (toe out) as the suspension goes down
it happens when you lower your car and often when you change to tubular K member and A arms. Check to see if your tie rods are parallel with your A arms. If they don't run even with them then you need to correct it. I use the UPR kit, it's a nice piece. You'll know if you need it also by driving the car. Every bump will have it going all over the road.
it happens when you lower your car and often when you change to tubular K member and A arms. Check to see if your tie rods are parallel with your A arms. If they don't run even with them then you need to correct it. I use the UPR kit, it's a nice piece. You'll know if you need it also by driving the car. Every bump will have it going all over the road.
I do have tubular K member and A arms. They look even and over bumps it feels ok. But at 120 mph the front shakes. I had the tires checked. up grades are...
Flaming River
PA k-member and A arms
coli-overs-Lakewood 90-10s
Time for Caster/Camber plates that allow more caster. The increase in caster helps center the wheels. With increased caster, turning the wheel side to side causes it to lift the front end of the car. Lifting the front requires extra energy input from the steering wheel, so it isn't always the best plan if you have a manual steering rack.
Edit:
Prior to purchasing C/C plates, have another shop check the wheel balance.
Steering slack needs the efforts of two people to check it out throughly. Place the car on jackstands located under the front A arms as close to the ball joint as possible. This loads the suspension in a similar manner as driving on the road. Lock the steering by turning the ignition key off. Have your helper try to move the tire & wheel assembly right to left while you watch the outer tie rod ends for slack. Watch the steering rack rods to see if the move when trying to turn the wheel. Next relocate yourself to where you can see the rag joint and have your helper move the tire & wheel assembly right to left while you watch.
To check the ball joints, use a long pry bar under the wheel to lift it while watching the A arm for looseness. This time watch for slack in the ball joints.
90/10's - so by track you mean drag strip? Bump steer shows up on the street or track when bumps are encountered that the toe is significantly altered because the outer tie rods and the A-arms are traveling in different arcs of a different radius. It shows up in cars that have been lowered, but no adjustment has been made for the lowering with the tie rod connections. You shouldn't be experiencing it significantly on the drag strip with your set up, and even if it were a problem it shouldn't contribute to shaking in the front end. I'd get the car on an alignment rack with someone who really understands front ends -- I'd look for other worn pieces, or tire balance issues to find the shake. And I wouldn't keep running it that fast until I found the problem.
And if by track you mean road course -- and you're running 90/10's.....