bunch of problems please give your input!

[Funanin]

ok well I just did a bunch of stuff to my car, everything in my sig that is listed is installed except the heads and the cam. I just finished replacing the lifters, pushrods, installing 1.7 roller rockers and BBK equal length ceramic headers.

Now the problems are:

The car doesnt seem to run right. It runs pretty quiet, but makes some ticking and chugging noises. Also when I stick my head down in the bay to listen to the ticking there is exhaust coming out from somewhere because its burning my eyes. It also has a strange smell. Kind of like an oil smell or a cat burning smell. Note, I have the dipstick out because I cant get it back in with the equal lengths so I dont know what to do about that either. I have the cats on right now with no smog so that might be part of the smell. The car also has trouble driving smooth at a real low rpm. When I get on it tho it really moves good but sounds like a big piece of junk hauling ass down the road IMO. I also have 1 bad O2 sensor so Im waiting for a new one. I dont think I installed the rockers right and that is the major part of the problem. I used 1 small shim on every rocker just to be safe but I think im gonna take them off and use nothing to see if that solves it because they are supposed to be direct bolt ons from ford. Sorry so long, just leave me a line if u think you can help, thanks.

 

[NKau]

I also have 1 bad O2 sensor so Im waiting for a new one.

Looks like you answered most of your question right there. The car won't run right if it can't cycle the 02's normally; the computer will operate in open loop (as if the motor is cold).
As far as the dipstick tube, you could try finding another junkyard tube to 'tweak' and see if you can make it work.
If there's exhaust fumes and ticking in your engine compartment, one of your header gaskets is likely partially blown, or a flange came loose, etc.

 

[vikingpower]

You can bend your diplstick tube to work, that is what I did when I put my long tubes on.

 

[Funanin]

ok, I figured the O2 was doing some of the damage, but I dont see how the headers could be leaking I used really good gaskets and I have a really thick 3/8" flange with grade 8 locking bolts so I dont see how the headers could leak. Also I tried to put my stock dipstick tube back in and just ended up ruining it by bending it so much that the stick wont go thru it and i still couldnt get it in. I bought a new chrome one from ford racing but I dont want to ruin that too. When I pull the motor to replace the heads/cam/oilpan/timing cover/chain ect next winter I will make sure I get the dipstick back in right before I drop the motor back in but for now do u think it would be ok to just plug the hole? I dont drive the car much and it doesnt leak oil. I change the oil very very frequently and i know exactly how much it takes to fill because ive done it so many times. I also have an electric oil pressure guage so I could keep an eye on it with that too. Do u think this is a bad idea?

 

[TheREALReiGnMaN]

yo

Very good response about the o2 Sensor .
Ok , First off , GREAT mods to the car... Anything BBK is pretty solid .
As for the " leaking " gasket , All gaskets will leak slightly , don't know of any that will not ... their is no perfect seal , just like Piston rings... Even Gapless rings are going to leek . As for the dipstick problem , you might want to try and " relocate " it ... Is it at all possible ? Not sure what oil pan you are using ... I know certain companies have solutions already for these things... thats how they sell their pans instead of Motorcraft's ... But yea , if not , try and find a 5.8 motor somewhere , see what he has done ... im sure he has larger headers , and might have come to that problem .

 

[tomabram]

Very good response about the o2 Sensor .
Ok , First off , GREAT mods to the car... Anything BBK is pretty solid .
As for the " leaking " gasket , All gaskets will leak slightly , don't know of any that will not ... their is no perfect seal , just like Piston rings... Even Gapless rings are going to leek . As for the dipstick problem , you might want to try and " relocate " it ... Is it at all possible ? Not sure what oil pan you are using ... I know certain companies have solutions already for these things... thats how they sell their pans instead of Motorcraft's ... But yea , if not , try and find a 5.8 motor somewhere , see what he has done ... im sure he has larger headers , and might have come to that problem .

Make sure you tighten up the header bolts because the will loosen up with the heat and then cooling of the metal parts. This will happen for a few hundred miles or even more so you have to tighten every once and a while. And not all gaskets will leak. The guy who said that is wrong. Hes comparing metal piston rings that move up and down against metal walls. That is totally different than parts that dont move. Make sure you didnt bend the flange slightly. See if they are all tight perfect because they should not leak.

 

[crash22]

as foryou ticking try this
http://brevardmustangs.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=1333&highlight=noise+starter

 

[Camman]

Very good response about the o2 Sensor .
Ok , First off , GREAT mods to the car... Anything BBK is pretty solid .
As for the " leaking " gasket , All gaskets will leak slightly , don't know of any that will not ... their is no perfect seal , just like Piston rings... Even Gapless rings are going to leek . As for the dipstick problem , you might want to try and " relocate " it ... Is it at all possible ? Not sure what oil pan you are using ... I know certain companies have solutions already for these things... thats how they sell their pans instead of Motorcraft's ... But yea , if not , try and find a 5.8 motor somewhere , see what he has done ... im sure he has larger headers , and might have come to that problem .

do you by any chance work for NASA?

 

[HISSIN50]

do you by any chance work for NASA?

High-five Mike!

 

[TheUser]

ok well I just did a bunch of stuff to my car, everything in my sig that is listed is installed except the heads and the cam. I just finished replacing the lifters, pushrods, installing 1.7 roller rockers and BBK equal length ceramic headers.

Now the problems are:

The car doesnt seem to run right. It runs pretty quiet, but makes some ticking and chugging noises. Also when I stick my head down in the bay to listen to the ticking there is exhaust coming out from somewhere because its burning my eyes. It also has a strange smell.

Are you sure the collector is sealed to your mid-pipe? Is it possible you maybe got some oil on some exhaust compoents and it's just burning off? That happens occassionally and you can smell it..also see the smoke.

I also have 1 bad O2 sensor so Im waiting for a new one. I dont think I installed the rockers right and that is the major part of the problem.

Definately get a new O2 in there, but you know that.

I used 1 small shim on every rocker just to be safe but I think im gonna take them off and use nothing to see if that solves it because they are supposed to be direct bolt ons from ford.

Every motor is different; yours may need shims while others won't. Some rockers might need a shim or two, while others on your motor won't need any. If they're pedistal mount, which it sounds like they are: Get the cyclinder you're doing (it's easiest to just follow the firing order) barely past the exhaust stroke to where both pushrods are down, tighten the bolts down enough to get them to zero lash (tighten bolt down enough where you can barely turn the pushrod w/ your fingers) and then torque down to the proper torque rating WHILE COUNTING YOUR TURNS. If it takes more than one full turn to reach the recommended torque rating, use shims. One shim will reduce it 1/4 turn. A lot of aftermarket rockers make noise, so that may be what you're experiencing. You might try driving it a little bit and see if it goes away.

 

[tony91723]

I just got done doing my engine build, and I didn't have to use any shims. I suggest you take break the valvetrain down and redo the rockers. like stated before by others you only need a shim when it takes more than one turn to torque to spec. good luck

 

[Camman]

High-five Mike!

 

[Funanin]

works better fellas, got the rockers all straightened out, now I just need to fix this code 33 about the EGR valve and I have a new problem. I used home depot bolts to bolt down my new valve covers and 3 of them broke when I went to remove the covers to do the rockers. So now I need to get a bolt extractor to get them out. DONT USE ANYTHING BUT ARP OR GRADE 8 ON YOUR MOTORS PEOPLE!!!

 

[crash22]

DONT USE ANYTHING BUT ARP OR GRADE 8 ON YOUR MOTORS PEOPLE!!!

well duh. one of my friends made this mistake he did a 3G upgrade without grade 8 bolts and the alt came loose and did a job on the front of his engine . just go to any auto sho and tell them what you need.

 

[Paul Perreca]

wat year is the car, is it MAF?

 

[jrichker]

Code 33 - Insufficient EGR flow detected.
Look for vacuum leaks, cracked vacuum lines, failed EGR vacuum regulator. Check to see if you have 10” of vacuum at the EGR vacuum connection coming from the intake manifold. Look for electrical signal at the vacuum regulator solenoid valves located on the rear of the passenger side wheel well. Using a test light across the electrical connector, it should flicker as the electrical signal flickers. Remember that the computer does not source any power, but provides the ground necessary to complete the circuit. That means one side of the circuit will always be hot, and the other side will go to ground or below 1 volt as the computer switches on that circuit.

Check for resistance between the brown/lt green wire on the EGR sensor and pin 27 on the computer: you should have less than 1 ohm.

See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host)

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91eecPinout.gif

EGR test procedure courtesy of cjones

to check the EGR valve:
bring the engine to normal temp.
connect a vacuum pump to the EGR Valve
apply 5in vacuum to the valve.
if engine stumbled or died then EGR Valve and passage(there is a passageway through the heads and intake) are good.
if engine did NOT stumble or die then either the EGR Valve is bad and/or the passage is blocked.
if engine stumbled, connect vacuum gauge to the hose coming off of the EGR Valve
snap throttle to 2500 RPM (remember snap the throttle don't hold it there).
did the vacuum gauge show about 5in vacuum?

if not, check for manifold vacuum at the EGR vacuum valve.
if you have manifold vacuum then connect vacuum gauge to the EGR valve side of the vacuum valve and snap throttle to 2500 RPM.
should read about 5in vacuum

 

[stock 92 gt]

fix everything that you know is wrong with it then come back.