Buying a 95 gt with mods, need help
- Thread starter db=dave=06
- Start date
I'm pressed for time right now but do a search on turbomustangs.com and see if you can find out how to identify the a4 block. only make a post there after you have tryed searching or they will rip into you and just tell you to use the search button.
I checked the vin and every thing came up clean. He seems to be telling me the truth about the cars history.Iam waiting for reply about identifying a4 block on the turbomustang forum. If he is telling the truth about block and modifications and was just misinformed about hp do you think it is still a good deal or would i be better off buying stock stang and doing the mods myself.O ya before i forget, i meant to type forged steel crankshaft not alum. I was just in a hurry. He seems to know what he is talking about and claims this is his sixth stang. I am pretty sure he had futher plans for mods, which would explain a4 block. He told me to come check the car out and have it inspected, take it for a drive, than think about it for awhile. He hasn't been pushy what so ever.
db=dave=06 said:
Tell you what you do
Forget all the hot rod parts and judge that Stang as average, below average, or really clean.
Then see what other Stangs like it, sans parts, will sell for in your area.
See if the difference in price is worth it to you
Grady
BlackVert
15 Year Member
good advice, gradyfinal5-0 said:Tell you what you do
Forget all the hot rod parts and judge that Stang as average, below average, or really clean.
Then see what other Stangs like it, sans parts, will sell for in your area.
See if the difference in price is worth it to you
Grady
Black95GTS
Active Member
bimmertech said:
exactly what I was thinking
Like I was telling you in the other post, nobody in their right mind buys forged internals and an A4 to run a NA 306. If the guy "knows" mustangs, then he would know this.
And there is no way that 24 pound injectors can support 379rw. Do you hear me? IT CANNOT HAPPEN! Unless he didn't tell you about the 100 shot of N20... that would definately explain the numbers / injector sizing. This would also explain why everything is forged in the engine.
Again, you are getting either a formerly power-added car or a bottle baby. Which isn't necessarily a bad thing, but you should be expecting the headaches that go along with it.
CHeck the air induction tube for caps where a nitrous jet would be installed. Hell, if he lets you, check the spark plugs for what they are gapped at. Anything around the .035 mark should be tagged as very suspicious. A NA spark plug should be gapped around .054.
- Adam
Black95GTS said:exactly what I was thinking
Like I was telling you in the other post, nobody in their right mind buys forged internals and an A4 to run a NA 306. If the guy "knows" mustangs, then he would know this.
And there is no way that 24 pound injectors can support 379rw. Do you hear me? IT CANNOT HAPPEN! Unless he didn't tell you about the 100 shot of N20... that would definately explain the numbers / injector sizing. This would also explain why everything is forged in the engine.
Again, you are getting either a formerly power-added car or a bottle baby. Which isn't necessarily a bad thing, but you should be expecting the headaches that go along with it.
CHeck the air induction tube for caps where a nitrous jet would be installed. Hell, if he lets you, check the spark plugs for what they are gapped at. Anything around the .035 mark should be tagged as very suspicious. A NA spark plug should be gapped around .054.
- Adam
Adam has some good things to say here
Here is another thing you might wanna check out. See if the pan has been setup for an oil drain from a blower or turbo
Grady
thanks for advice. Ill probally start looking for a different car. Sounds to suspicious and plus i should learn more about engins before making that kind of investment. Can someone explain to me why knowbody would by forged internals and an a4 block to run a na 306, and why do they call it a 'na306' not just 306. If it was formely power added why would i be expecting headaches? Sorry for all the newbi questions but i gotta learn somehow.
BlackVert
15 Year Member
n/a means "naturally aspirated"; it just the engine with no power adders like a supercharger, turbo, or nitrous.db=dave=06 said:
a typical h/c/i (heads/cam/intake) upgrade on a n/a engine can typically net you around 300 hp at the rear wheels (rwhp). a stock block is plenty strong enough for any n/a setup; they are good up to about 450rwhp.
the same statements go for the stock internals (crank, rods, pistons, ...). they are plenty strong enough for a n/a setup.
an a4 block and forged internals are much stronger than stock stuff. a person would not buy a that stuff unless he was planning on making more like 500+ rwhp, which is basically impossible to do n/a.
does that help?
