buying a supercharger

35stang35 · May 3, 2009

im looking to buy a supercharger for my 4.6 07 mustang gt . i just wanna know if theres one supercharger i should get and what place i should get a supercharger from.

CRoberts91 · May 3, 2009

it might help us out a bit if you narrowed down some stuff. first off, what type are you looking for? if you want cost-effective power, go with a centrifugal supercharger, they're typically around $4k. vortech and paxton make really nice centri kits for our stangs. if you're interested in that type, visit Mustang Performance Parts & Upgrades by Brenspeed. they have complete supercharger kits for sale by both paxton and vortech. If you're looking for a step up, i'd go with a twin screw. they make lots of power throughout the entire RPM range. i've always wanted a Kenne Bell 2.6L for my '07 GT. Their kits are insane, and make ridiculous power. Its probably the best twin screw supercharger on the market. you can go to '05-'06 Mustang 4.6 3V Supercharger and check out all their stuff. Their kits have HUGE potential.

i hope this helps. listen to the experienced guys that have gone the FI route, they know what they're talking about and have always helped me.

Five Oh Brian · May 3, 2009

There are no bad superchargers on the market and they all add serious power to our S197's. That said, it really comes down to a few decision points....

Where do you want your power? Centrifugal blower make great top end power at the expense of very little gains down low. Twin screws make excellent power down low, but then flatten out as rpm's increase. At WOT, it doesn't really matter which you pick, but for general, daily driving, the twin screw will offer more power more of the time as we spend more time in the lower rpm's.
How much power do you want to make? Just looking for 350-450 rwhp? Then you can get away with a more basic blower that is not intercooled. Looking for max performance? Be sure to get an intercooler so you can safely up the boost and make big power.
How much do you want to spend? Centrifugals are very cost effective, while twin screws tend to cost a bit more (roughly 30-50% more than a centrifugal). Intercoolers add about $1500 to $2000 to the equation. Polished blowers are typically about $300 to $500 more than black/natural colored blowers.

Once you've decided on the answers to the questions above, then those of us who've added blowers can better point you toward the right blower for your application and circumstances.

Everyone will want to tell you that the blower they picked for their car is the "best" one for you, but that is probably not true as your car & goals may be very different. Again, there are no "bad" blowers on the market for our cars currently - each is just better suited for a particular application for different reasons.

Stangninjak · May 5, 2009

All of the major supercharger companies have viable products.

Twin Screw: Saleen, Kenny Bell, Whipple, Roush, Techco, and Magna Charger(?)
Cemtri Style: Vortech, Paxton, ATI Procharger
TVS: Edelbrock, Whipple
Hybrid Centri: Rotrex.

I put hybrid in there because the Rotrex is built off of turbo tech, and spins up like one. No gears. Very efficient makes power down low like a twin screw, but builds all the way up top like a centri. Mercedes, BMW, are just a few euro cars that use this blower for their setups.

As you see, there are a lot to choose from when you want to supercharge your car. We have not even gotten to turbo's yet.....so do your research for YOUR needs, and have at it ! Whatever setup you decide, the s197 platform responds very well to F/I.

livin · Jun 20, 2009

I have a few questions similar to 35stang35 was asking. I am looking for a basic kit...using cost as a deciding factor...and that I am looking to only be around the 400 - 425 HP level.

I was thinking the Vortech V3 or the Whipple.

It seems like Vortech is a better known name...but the twin screw design of the whipple looks like it makes more power in the lower RPM's where I would be doing most of my driving.

When I say basic kit - I am referring to non-intercooled. From all the reading that I have done it appears that the basic kit's will be fine as long as I keep the boost down and stay around 400/425 HP - your thoughts?

Also, what is the sound level (supercharger wine) of the Whipple? Can it be heard outside/inside the car?

Thanks.

Gearbanger 101 · Jun 20, 2009

Here's a Whipple on the dyno....you be the judge if its too loud or not.

The Whipple is probably middle of the road for noise. If you want quiet, Kenne Bell is probably your best option. If you want loud, one of the Eaton based kits like the standard Roush kit (4th Generation Eaton MP90), or Magnacharger (4th or 5th Generation Magnuson MP112) model is what you would be after.

All are capable of 400+hp

klaw · Jun 20, 2009

Using cost as a deciding factor is a big red flag to me.

FI is expensive and the cost of the kit is only the tip of the iceberg. I'd say it's not impossible to do FI on a budget but I don't believe it's a good idea to try.

livin · Jun 20, 2009

gearbanger 101 - thanks for the video - that was helpful and it sounded great. I am guessing by the HP numbers that this was the HO kit? Would the basic kit sound the same?

Where would the Vortech V3 be regarding the sound - as compared to the others that you listed?

Thanks.

oh9mustang · Jun 21, 2009

Edelbrock

Gearbanger 101 · Jun 21, 2009

livin said:
gearbanger 101 - thanks for the video - that was helpful and it sounded great. I am guessing by the HP numbers that this was the HO kit? Would the basic kit sound the same?

Where would the Vortech V3 be regarding the sound - as compared to the others that you listed?

Thanks.

The base kit might not be quite as loud, or high pitched since the blower is turning a little slower, but since it also hasn't got an intercooler core muffling the noise, it'll have basically the same volume as the higher spun HO kit.

The Vortech V3 is a centrifugal, so it should be nearly silent at WOT operation aside from the "whooshing" sound of the air being forced into the engine. The most noise a centrifugal makes is the "whistle" at idle and with quick jabs of the throttle.

There's a video of one of those kits on an S197 Mustang on Youtube as well if you looked.

try to get past the crappy DMX soundtrack

Idle and Rev

To be frank, if it were my money and the car was mostly a street ride, I'd stick with the Positive Displacement style over the Centrifugal. That extra bunch of bottom end torque comes in much handier than the rush in the mid range does in about 90% of the driving you're going to do. These cars aren't light weights, so having that extra "jam" down low is what you want in my book.

My car actually weights more than an S197 and I've only got a little Eaton M90 blower on it. I see about 360lbs/ft of torque by 2,000RPM and carry it to about 390lbs ft to red line. No lull in the bottom end, with a sudden rush of power in the mid range. Just gobs of it right from the get go. Makes the car feel like there's a big block under the hood, which also makes all the difference in the world on the way the car drives and feels. Especially when I'm walking my friends much lighter Vortech S-Trim blown '01 Mustang GT at the track.

Preston951 · Jun 21, 2009

This has all the info you need.
S197 Supercharger & Turbocharger Specs - Ford Mustang Forums

Courtesy of me!

Gearbanger 101 · Jun 21, 2009

Preston951 said:
This has all the info you need.
S197 Supercharger & Turbocharger Specs - Ford Mustang Forums

Courtesy of me!

Nice list. The only problem I have with it is your horsepower/dollar ratio. You're going based on company advertised spec....which we all know in most cases is almost always inflated.

Kenne Bell especially is famous for dyno testing their kits with 100-octane race fuel and with very non street friendly amounts of timing (most tests conducted as high as 23*). Great for making big dyno numbers, but unrealistic for someone thinking they're going to be able to knock out these same numbers, just by bolting on a kit and filling the tank with the 91-93 octane unleaded fuel that's available at most pumps.

I don't put this practice past some of the other manufactures listed as well.

....so lets all keep that in mind when mauling over the choices and thinking just because the kit is advertised as putting out the most horsepower per dollar, doesn't mean it translates to those number in real world situations.

Preston951 · Jun 21, 2009

Gearbanger 101 said:
Nice list. The only problem I have with it is your horsepower/dollar ratio. You're going based on company advertised spec....which we all know in most cases is almost always inflated.

Kenne Bell especially is famous for dyno testing their kits with 100-octane race fuel and with very non street friendly amounts of timing (most tests conducted as high as 23*). Great for making big dyno numbers, but unrealistic for someone thinking they're going to be able to knock out these same numbers, just by bolting on a kit and filling the tank with the 91-93 octane unleaded fuel that's available at most pumps.

I don't put this practice past some of the other manufactures listed as well.

....so lets all keep that in mind when mauling over the choices and thinking just because the kit is advertised as putting out the most horsepower per dollar, doesn't mean it translates to those number in real world situations.

Exactly! But you know, what can you do? My Stang running 5lbs of boost will make different HP from an exactly same Stang running 5lbs of boost. All the information in that thread is overall, general info... But I know it'll sure help!

Actual results will vary. Data based off of company's advertised info. Most horsepower numbers are from dynos; most stock Mustangs have 260-280 hp to the wheels stock, so hp/$ ratio is slightly better than what is listed.

flounderlipps · Jun 22, 2009

Preston951 said:
Exactly! But you know, what can you do? My Stang running 5lbs of boost will make different HP from an exactly same Stang running 5lbs of boost.

But if they are tuned by a good tuner and all else being equal they should be within 10-20 hp.

Not the claim that Kenne Bell gets 471whp with a 2.6L with 5psi non intercooled.
That is just bull.

I have a 2.6L Kenne Bell with 12-14 psi and I'm making around 525whp.
That is real world numbers and generally what other people are seeing.

BCB00GT · Jun 23, 2009

I have the Saleen Supershaker on my car. I bought the Saleen blower used and the Supershaker upgrade new. Total cost was a great deal.

If I was buying new, I would get the Edlebrock. Very nice kit from everything I read.

And for street use, a PD is awesome.

donzi · Jun 28, 2009

I always went with either Vortech or Procharger.

Depending on your setup you are going to need new injectors, fuel controller, fuel pump, and inter coolers.

Also, if this is your daily driver I would not recommend it. Everything wears out faster. Also at least with my 2001 Z28 belt slip was a problem.

Good luck

quickstang1 · Jun 30, 2009

go with turbo from hellion----best way to go----i have procharger and well lets just say never again---had on car for 14,000 miles and shaft bearings came apart----ran car maybe 13-14 times down track---over 1,000 bucks to fix!!! GO WITH TURBO!!!

klaw · Jun 30, 2009

Edelbrock would have to pay me for the advertising space if I went with the E-force. Come on - four big bold name-whoring ads all over my engine! Are you kidding me?

BJ1000RR · Jun 30, 2009

Take the two big engine covers off & grind the other two down, then paint over it. Thats what I would do, but im sneaky.

o0Dan0o · Jul 1, 2009

Gearbanger 101 said:
Here's a Whipple on the dyno....you be the judge if its too loud or not.

The Whipple is probably middle of the road for noise. If you want quiet, Kenne Bell is probably your best option. If you want loud, one of the Eaton based kits like the standard Roush kit (4th Generation Eaton MP90), or Magnacharger (4th or 5th Generation Magnuson MP112) model is what you would be after.

All are capable of 400+hp

The Magnacharger is the 5th gen MP112 (unless they used the 4th gen in early models). The old eatons are easily the loudest I've heard, though the TVS is supposed to be one of the quietest. I happen to like the whipple, I think its noise level is pretty well balanced with the average catless exhaust.

Magnacharger is real loud...

klaw said:
Using cost as a deciding factor is a big red flag to me.

FI is expensive and the cost of the kit is only the tip of the iceberg. I'd say it's not impossible to do FI on a budget but I don't believe it's a good idea to try.

Depends on where you cut your corners. Keeping the stock crank, your probably ok, stock rods and pistons, not so much. Also, using the BAP instead of changing the pumps can save you some cash.

Sure, not a bullet proof setup, but so long as you're not going too extreme (pushing over 600 rwhp or more) it should last as long as any other.
Dan

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