C&L Plenum, Accufab TB, K&N drop in +20HP +24 TQ

I think thats always a fair statement when you start adding intake plentums, T/B CAI, exhaust...ect...while you will see gains, they can not be optimized except through proper tuning. Some actually loose power with bolt ons because it so changes the A/F ratio that gains are negated and in fact its so fat it looses power and in some cases like the 03 cobra they nearly always get dangerously lean with a denso CAI...I've seen that more than a dozen times...melts spark plugs...So the tune will normally always benifit........

GI Joe
 
What I would recommend is bolt the stuff on and dyno it..See what the A/F is..The stock tune really needs alot more timing...
Then,if its rich,have someone either tune it on the dyno or send you a chip/reflash to get the most out of the combo.
Chris already had a N/A tune from me ith timing advance..All I did was lean the car out for the new mods..
There's no denying Chris's results.As unreal as they may seem,there were alot of guys around watching the results appear....He had a perfect A/F of 13:0-13:2 when I tuned it 6 months ago.The plenum/filter took him to 11:0-11:5..I simply moved the a/F back to 13.:1 and his results were 20rwhp and 24TQ...No games,thats what it did..

Tim
 
GI Joe 97/02 said:
What I meant by mail is he has a N/A tune for guys that want a little extra. He can sell the Steeda N/A tune via mail too. It will correct gear ratios and lots of other little things and super tune the N/A car. He did a S/C car via mail...and although he will tell you that eventually you must get to an experienced dyno operator to have the car dynoed...and A/F checked and mail it to him to review...he is so good at it for the basic S/C set up, that once I mailed him the computer of a car I was doing the install on and he sent it back with the tune inside...and then the guy drove 210 miles up there to get it dynoed tuned...not just dynoed...but dyno tuned to finish tweaking the tune if you will.....and he did one(1) pull and said "take it off the dyno...its done...its perfect". Now with a car with heads and intake and cams and all....things get different...but the basic N/A hop - up tune or the basic Supercharger set up.....you can mail your computer to him and he will do it.....and he's very good at it.....
I will have the guy post here and tell you about it.
GI Joe


GI Joe is right. The car he's talking about is mine. GI Joe did my s/c install at his house. Tim reflashed the computer while the car was still in GI Joe's garage. I had clocked close to 500 miles on the car with the initial tune that Tim put in the computer. I was told not to get into boost until Tim could see how the A/F ratio looked. Wouldn't you know that on the first dyno pull the car pulled in 361 rwhp with an A/F ratio of 12:1. Tim worked a little more of his magic and fattened up the A/F ratio. Final numbers were 372.7rwhp and 374.5 ft-lbs with an A/F ratio of 11.5:1. If you ask me, Tim's a tuning god :hail2:
 
downsouthman1 said:
I wouldn't doubt that but what I'm saying is if I give him my Superchip can he fix my tune there too? & will retuning your chip fix your speedometer or do you need a Speedcal?

No chips. He reflashes the computer. To my knowledge he doesn't reprogram chips. He can reflash your computer for the new gears so you won't need a speedcal.
 
cobra killer said:
What I would recommend is bolt the stuff on and dyno it..See what the A/F is..The stock tune really needs alot more timing...
Then,if its rich,have someone either tune it on the dyno or send you a chip/reflash to get the most out of the combo.
Chris already had a N/A tune from me ith timing advance..All I did was lean the car out for the new mods..
There's no denying Chris's results.As unreal as they may seem,there were alot of guys around watching the results appear....He had a perfect A/F of 13:0-13:2 when I tuned it 6 months ago.The plenum/filter took him to 11:0-11:5..I simply moved the a/F back to 13.:1 and his results were 20rwhp and 24TQ...No games,thats what it did..

Tim

:nice:


:hail2: T&J PERFORMANCE :hail2:
 
GI Joe 97/02 said:
Isn't it true that it matters whether you want HP or not? A guy that wants HP might say its crazy to buy things like:
Shifter
strut brace
grill delete
wing
cat back
and get zero hp for that money...$800 zero HP. So if you want HP it will cost you those kinds of dollars.
I noticed you have a supercharger on your wish list. Let me point out for you before you do the math and get the sticker shock yourself, that a blower setup for you car will cost you at least $4000. It will yield you about 130 hp if you get the steeda or Cobra Killer tune (and probalby a bit less with some other company's tune). $4000 @ 130 hp is $30.75 per hp. $30.75 X 20 hp is $615. So $25 per HP is about right with a mod car. Keep that in mind in case you decided to add some hp to your car.
timing adjuster, header, mid pipe...they all work out about the same...although there are a few exceptions, like the underdrive pullies.
GI Joe


well put. But As my list say, "mod I never have money for" means I'll never be able to put $4000+ for supercharger. I see your point, but it is easier to give up 500buck for 20hp than 200bucks 1 hp, possibly 2hp for CAI. Or 4000dollars for S/C when I don't have that much in my savings...
 
downsouthman1 said:
Man I don't know about that. I think I'm gonna see what the shop who installed my Superchip can do as far as a retune. They'll retune it for me while I wait. :p
They should be able to...I think thats what they advertise...at any rate...you need to have tweaked for optimum perf...good luck.
GI Joe
 
san~man said:
How is the test not true? If the size of the TB changed, all of the plenums would most like show a gain over the 70mm one.

If the openings on the C&L and Dragon were made with a 75mm opening and the Accufab only 70mm, then there might be a difference in the results placing the 75mm on there. The 70mm might be restrictive on the C&L and Dragon, but not on the Accufab.