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  • 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-
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C4/ Top loader conversion

  • Thread starter Thread starter allcarfan
  • Start date Start date Sep 13, 2004

allcarfan

The Answer Man
Founding Member
Apr 8, 2001
2,458
1
56
North Atlanta
Sep 13, 2004
#1
  • Sep 13, 2004
  • #1
I am tossing around the idea of swapping my C4 for a toploader. My C4 is built really nice and it has lots of goodies. However, I have no idea what the price is on a toploader. Can one of those be converted to a hydraulic clutch. Any idea on what the cost is on this type of conversion? Will it fit the same headers as my C4?
 

6Stang7

New Member
Jun 1, 2003
1,470
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0
Livermore, CA
Sep 13, 2004
#2
  • Sep 13, 2004
  • #2
The price on the top loader will vary depending on where you buy it, what speed it is, and if the seller knows what they got. I see 4 speeds go for around $400 or so out here in CA, but they are not cleaned up ones. You can do a hydraulic set up on a top loader, which I would recommend doing as I hate the clutch linkage. The price to allow your car to use a manual will be in the form of a new tranny crossmember, and a new brake pedal along with a clutch pedal. I think that you’ll also need a new slip yoke because of the different spline count (I think 4 speeds are 25 spline, so count your to find out). The cost of the hydraulic kit all depends on where you get it. As for the headers, well you'll have to ask the manufacture on that one. You will also need a new flywheel, which means that you'll need a new starter, because I am pretty sure they had different tooth counts.
 

ratio411

Founding Member
Apr 21, 2002
3,870
73
109
Pensacola FL
Sep 14, 2004
#3
  • Sep 14, 2004
  • #3
C4 uses the same driveshaft, yoke, crossmember, and if memory serves, mount as the short toploader.
I didn't change any of that on my conversion.
The biggest change IMO is dropping the steering column for the manual pedals.
I too would recommend hyd. clutch if you can manage. I am sure it's possible, but I didn't do that.
I used the stock linkage, this is the only part that affects your headers. If you go hydraulic, then it won't matter.
Most C4 headers will fit the manual linkage, there are some that won't though.
Good luck
Dave

Btw: The speedo is on the opposite side. Be careful with re-routing. Mine only lasted a month or so, I guess I stressed it somewhere.
 

allcarfan

The Answer Man
Founding Member
Apr 8, 2001
2,458
1
56
North Atlanta
Sep 14, 2004
#4
  • Sep 14, 2004
  • #4
What about the balancing of my rotating assembly? I just had everything balanced with a new flexplate. Is it ok to swap in the same 'weight' flywheel?
 

LMan

Founding Member
Aug 10, 2002
1,246
0
0
Mom's basement
Sep 14, 2004
#5
  • Sep 14, 2004
  • #5
Yes, its ok. Just make sure the flywheel is the same imbalance as your flexplate.

If you have power brakes, the simplest way to attack the pedal problem is to reuse your auto-trans brake pedal after cutting it down to size. PM me on the auto-pedals-to-manual-pedals and I'll show you what I did.
 

allcarfan

The Answer Man
Founding Member
Apr 8, 2001
2,458
1
56
North Atlanta
Sep 14, 2004
#6
  • Sep 14, 2004
  • #6
This is still up in the air. I may just go with one of those gear vendors thingies next year. I have a built C4 with a PA reverse manual valve body, TCI converter, custom trans pan, transcooler, etc etc....not sure if I can give it up
 

ratio411

Founding Member
Apr 21, 2002
3,870
73
109
Pensacola FL
Sep 14, 2004
#7
  • Sep 14, 2004
  • #7
LMan said:
Yes, its ok. Just make sure the flywheel is the same imbalance as your flexplate.

If you have power brakes, the simplest way to attack the pedal problem is to reuse your auto-trans brake pedal after cutting it down to size. PM me on the auto-pedals-to-manual-pedals and I'll show you what I did.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I got a donor bracket and pedals from a Falcon.
The fit was not quite right, so I hybrid the clutch pedal into my auto bracket. I cut the brake pedal in half, then welded a portion of the side back on so that it was the same shape as the manual brake pad. Then with the pad in place, it looked stock.
You still have to drop the column and bracket to do all this, so if you have access to a complete donor assembly, I recommend just a straight up swap.
You have to watch the pin height on the brake pedal though. If you have power brakes and use the pin height for manual brakes, you will have too much leverage on the pedal and brakes will be super touchy. If you have manual brakes and use the power pin height, you will not have the leverage to activate the brakes.
If you get the wrong donor assembly, just cut and reweld the pin to the proper height to match your pedal.
Dave
 
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