B, E, F, or X cam from 50resto.com, i basicly want the best one, doesnt matter if i have rough idle, but im more worried about valve and piston clearance.???
None of the above! Alphabet cams are old news. Go find yourself a nice dual pattern grind through CompCams or another one of the more popular companies and you'll be 10xhappier with the results.
i believe an e-cam is the biggest youll be able to get with stock internals, possibly an f-cam. f-cam is too much for stock valve springs, e-cam cuts it close but will work.
i called comp cams and got a "custom" cam that was a popular grind. has the idle i wanted, good drivability, and hits hard just over normal driving rpm's.
I am very satisfied with the Trick Flow Stage 1 cam. It has a sweet sounding lopey idle plus generates decent vacuum (11.5 inches at 800 rpm).
It pulls real hard from 3200 to 6200+. Specs are 221/225 @ .050 duration, .499/510 @ .050 lift and 112 degrees L.S. Plus at only $140 thru Summit (P.N. TFS-51402000) its a real bargain.
I am running Windsor Jrs. (milled .020) and during the rebuild I checked piston-to-valve clearance (using clay) and have plenty.
It works great with my combo of 3.55 gears, off-road x-pipe, Long BBK headers, Mean Streak mufflers, rpm intake and 650 double-pumper w/1" 4-hole spacer (5-spd).
I have the Comp Extreme Energy 35-328-8 cam and I love it, but it might damage a stock engine... think springs, hardened push rods and a new heads if you want a bigger cam.
Stock heads and stage one cam...you will not be very pleased with your gains/time spent/money spent. Save for heads and keep the stock cam...all that work for MAYBE 10hp.
I would go with the Comp Cams Xe-258, 264, or 270 which is what i have. According to Michael Yount (AKA CAR GOD) " CompCams Xtreme Energy line of cams are the only ones worth buying off the shelf in my opinion. They are far superior to most other bump sticks out there. You see, one of the most important specs about a cam you can't get much info on - that's the lobe design. How quickly the ramp rates open and close the valves makes a HUGE difference in performance. It's what allows a MUCH milder cam from CompCams make the same peak power as an E cam, with much better bottom end and drivability. If I were you, I'd save a little more money, even if it takes longer, and get a custom, or go with an XE264 - XE270 if you want something a little stouter." So if you have the money go with comp, i did and couldnt be happier the motor pulls great.
F cam will work with no piston to valve worries!(that was even with performer RPM heads with 1.90,1.60 valves and 1.6 roller rockers) I would change springs if using stock heads. If you go to something other than that E or B will works also. Make sure no more than 226@.50 and a total lift of no more than .520 at most. Hope this helps good luck.