Cam Lube/Valve Adj

rob289c · Nov 1, 2007

Last Saturday I began my engine assembly. Stock 289 rebuild. I'm using a Comp Cams flat tappet (bought it in 1995). The lube packet that came with it was a red, viscus liquid, instead of a grease consistancy that I remember from many years ago. I'm nervous that this lube has already fallen off the cam lobes and I'll be starting unprotected. Has anyone else used this lube? I think it's Comp Cams P/N 103 and as stated above, it was supplied with the cam. I plan to finish the assembly and fire this thing up over the next 3-4 days.

I put the valve train in this evening and started to adj the valves. I am using the book "How to Rebuild Your Small Block Ford" as my reference and using the "3-crank position method" to adjust the valves. I think step 1 is to put the crank @ TDC and adj #1 intake & exhaust, and a few selected others. The move the crank, do a few more, then one more position for the rest. On position 1, I am to adj one of the #7 valves (I forgot which one). I ran the nut all the way down and the slack never came out of the rocker. Should I have started one more revolution @ TDC? Is there another reference or different method anyone uses to adjust these valves? I don't want to screw anything up.

Any advice on these two concerns will be greatly appreciated.

Rob

68keyblr · Nov 1, 2007

I bought a jar of the Comp Cams engine assembly lube - it's white and greasy. Worked great.

I wouldn't worry about the red stuff too much, I see it used all over the place. Just make sure to prime your oil system really good before starting and you should be fine.

As for rocker installation, I simply put each piston at TDC, making sure that both valves are fully closed and then I torque to spec for pedestal mount rockers or zero lash + 5/8 turn for stud mount rockers.

I start with #1, then turn the crank 90* and go to the next cylinder in the firing order and so on. It's pretty easy that way and gives consistent results.

Good luck

65ShelbyClone · Nov 2, 2007

When lifters are new, they don't have any oil in them and are easy to compress. the method that works for me is to loosen the rocker and slowly tighten it down while spinning the pushrod between my thumb and index finger. When you feel resistance, that is zero lash. Tighten it another 1/4 to 3/4 turn(I aim for 1/2) after that and you're done.

This is also assuming that your pushrods are the right length.

Blu-Steel · Nov 2, 2007

65ShelbyClone said:
the method that works for me is to loosen the rocker and slowly tighten it down while spinning the pushrod between my thumb and index finger. When you feel resistance, that is zero lash. Tighten it another 1/4 to 3/4 turn(I aim for 1/2) after that and you're done.

That's what I do too and I find it works well. I Also have the "How to rebuild your small block Ford" book and although it has some good info in it, it does lack some detail on key areas, like adjusting the valves. I did what 68keyblr did and worked the valves one at a time in sequence. Although you can do it in groups since a couple are at TDC at the same time, but I find it helps me to keep track when I do it one at a time. Since the book was not as complete as I had hoped I wound up using several sources to guide me and the best one I found for the valves was the Chiltens manual. It showed how to mark the dampener for TDC on each valve and then I checked off each valve in the book as I completed it. I also used the shop manual (great for torque specs) and a few magazine articles I collected over the years.

rbohm · Nov 2, 2007

regarding the cam lube, you want a cam specific lube on the cam and on the bottom of the lifters. imo comp cams and other cam manufacturers dont supply enough lube for their flat tappet cams, so i end up buying a small jar of the good stuff, and lube up the cam lobes and lifters with a generous amount of lube.

for adjusting the valves, there are two methods for running the valves, either one works fine. you can follow the procedure in the chiltons manual and adjust several valves at a time, or you can adjust the valves individually according to the firing order and making sure each cylinder is at top dead center on the compression stroke before adjusting the valves. i have used both methods and they work equally well for the initial valve adjustment. go with the method that is easiest for you.

as for adjusting the valves themselves, i take out the vertical slack, then turn the adjusting nut 1/4-1/2 turn more and lock the adjuster down. i make the final valve adjustment with the engine running. i back the adjusting nut off until the valve clatters, then turn it down until the clatter stops, and then go 1/4 turn more.

rob289c · Nov 4, 2007

Thanks for all the good info. This is the first time I'vew been on since my original post. My neighbor, the Ford Mech and Ford Racer came over Friday evening and showed me what he does during valve adj. We backed all the rockers off, started at #1 TDC then started the adj procedure as follows: I started tightening until the lifter plunger just began to depress, then moved on to the next until all were done in the same manner. Since they aren't pumped up, that will get me close and can do final adj once running. I'm still leary of the red cam lube but there's no turning back now...it's all buttoned up and ready for installation. I will pre-lube and I have a bottle of Comp Cams break-in juice (P/N 159) to add for good measure. I'll report back after initial break-in is complete. Thanks again for the help.

Rob

Cam Lube/Valve Adj

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