cam off 1 tooth?

R

roan65

Member

May 17, 2003

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Wasilla Alaska

May 29, 2010

#1

• May 29, 2010

• #1

Part of my winter project consisted of a head swap and installing a trick flow stage 1 cam. When I did the cam install I was very careful about the alignment marks, but....

Here is my problem. I tried to fire off the car and it took a long time messing with the distributor. I Found TDC, aligned on #1 plug wire etc..... Finally after about 2 hours of messing around, it it fired off (to be honest I couldn't tell you what I did to make it fire). I could not check timing do to the A/C compressor being in the way. It seemed to run ok, a little rough and it didn't want to idle less than 1000 rpm. today I took off the AC compressor so i could check timing. My timing light was acting up, but it showed about 30*! I tried dialing it back down but the car died. I gave up on my crappy timing light and bought a new light. Now I can't seem to get the thing fired off again. Yes I am finding TDC, dizzy on #1 etc....

Will an engine run if the cam is off a tooth? Would this explain why I was showing 30* of timing?

 

J

Jmunk

Member

Sep 30, 2007

95

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6

May 29, 2010

#2

• May 29, 2010

• #2

Did you have the spout connector out?

 

R

roan65

Member

May 17, 2003

103

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Wasilla Alaska

May 29, 2010

#3

• May 29, 2010

• #3

Good question, but yes the spout connector was out.

 

BlownFiveLiter

have car, will race....wait, it doesn't run

15 Year Member

Nov 29, 1999

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Chicagoland

May 29, 2010

#4

• May 29, 2010

• #4

Did you install your distributor 180° out of phase? It'll run that way, but not very good. If you had the alignment dots lined up, the cam isn't one tooth off.

 

R

roan65

Member

May 17, 2003

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Wasilla Alaska

May 30, 2010

#5

• May 30, 2010

• #5

I had it in the right way. It ran fine. Like I stated in my original post, it was a little rough and it wouldn't idle below 1000. However I did drive it around, and did fine.

I really think I had the dots lined up, but I am second guessing myself. Especially since I am having such a hard time firing it off again.

Would an engine run with the cam advanced 1 tooth? I think I am going to tare apart the front again just to make sure.

 

BlackGT89

Member

Dec 16, 2002

774

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Huntsville, AL

May 30, 2010

#6

• May 30, 2010

• #6

I noticed your .sig says '65, so I'm assuming this is in a vintage Mustang. Is it possible your are still using the "old" non-EFI firing order (1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8) instead of the EFI H.O. firing order (1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8) ? Check your cam instructions and see if it lists the proper firing order. If that's it, you will have some "cold" cylinders that aren't firing (use an infrared thermometer if you have one, or a crayon mark on the headers will do). if that's it I'm surprised you could drive it around and have it run "fine". Our '67 ran like a sick puppy until we figured it out...

 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

Mod Dude

Feb 18, 2001

43,176

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Massachusetts

May 30, 2010

#7

• May 30, 2010

• #7

Kinda odd you took the ac compressor off to check timing, is the belt setup non stock? Usually you can check timing from the passenger side,

If the timing says 30 degrees, then rotate til it reads 10 degrees, if the intake gets in the way, you'll have to pull the distributor out and restab it 1 tooth over,

 

R

roan65

Member

May 17, 2003

103

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Wasilla Alaska

May 30, 2010

#8

• May 30, 2010

• #8

Yes this is in my 65, and what a fun project this has been! I had it running last year but decided to do some upgrades over the winter, and yes I am using the HO firing order.

I am using March Performance bracket kit and it relocates the AC compressor to the bottom passenger side. There is a very small window between the alternator and AC compressor, plus my air filter is in the way. I have re-stabbed the distributor several times. I have to have it really advanced to fire off.

I also checked my balancer. Comparing it to my other complete engine on the stand it looks good, and don't think it has slipped.

I think I am going to tare into today.

 

BlackGT89

Member

Dec 16, 2002

774

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Huntsville, AL

May 30, 2010

#9

• May 30, 2010

• #9

Edit: Ignore this, I can't read.

 

R

roan65

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May 17, 2003

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Wasilla Alaska

Jun 1, 2010

#10

• Jun 1, 2010

• #10

well the dots are lined up! At least I know... back together it goes!

 

BlackGT89

Member

Dec 16, 2002

774

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Huntsville, AL

Jun 1, 2010

#11

• Jun 1, 2010

• #11

Well, that much is good to know. Sometimes when I do a job like that I get snap happy with a digtal camera just to reassure myself on things of that nature. Is the distributor know to be good in the past ? Is it new or used ?

 

joel5.0

Member

Jun 15, 2004

429

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Puerto Rico

Jun 1, 2010

#12

• Jun 1, 2010

• #12

roan65 said:

well the dots are lined up! At least I know... back together it goes!

Click to expand...

Sorry to read this a little too late, but a simple cranking compression test would have prevented that timing cover tear down. Which you should check anyway. LUK

 

R

roan65

Member

May 17, 2003

103

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Wasilla Alaska

Jun 1, 2010

#13

• Jun 1, 2010

• #13

I should be better about taking pictures and that is a great suggestion. The Distributor is the same one that I had been using. Hopefully I will get it put back together in the next couple days and see how it goes.

I guess that is what I was wondering if there was a way to tell without taring it down. However I am one that would worry about it, but now I know. I am going to replace the water pump while I am there. I can do a compression test to make sure everything is good. What is consider good compression?