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Cam Question....(another One).

  • Thread starter Thread starter maverick31210
  • Start date Start date Jan 12, 2015
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maverick31210

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#1
  • Jan 12, 2015
  • #1
I know it seems like there's a zillion cam threads out there but they all seem to have their own opinions and a lot of them seem to be tailored for bigger and built motors.

I've got a stock 5 liter. I just changed all the lifters, push rods, and rockers...all stock replacements. I figure I might as well do the cam. I don't have a hoist so I'll be doing it in the car. I know it's a bit of a pain but I'm not in a hurry. From what I can figure, all the front end has to come off right? Obviously radiator, fan, condenser, and etc...and bumper cover. I don't see the cam coming all the way out with the bumper cover still in place. All of the accessories have to come off or can some be left on? At that point, might as well take everything off and have room to work.

Lastly, can I get a recommendation for what cam to go with keeping in mind that it's an all stock motor. Obviously I'd like to get the most performance possible but without having to change any of the valve train...at least not yet. Thoughts?
 

A5literMan

At least it is lumpy...
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Jan 12, 2015
#2
  • Jan 12, 2015
  • #2
My thought is why change the cam? All stock setup = stock cam. If you want to add a little performance(about the same as a mild cam) throw some 1.7 rr on it and be done. Save you time and money for basically the same results. Just my .02
 
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maverick31210

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#3
  • Jan 12, 2015
  • #3
Shortly after posting this, I did more reading and kind of came to the same conclusion. I've seen pretty much the same thing with the rollers, on a stock motor they're not much of a difference. It sounds like the time to do all this to see the most benefit if after doing a head swap.
 
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maverick31210

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#4
  • Jan 12, 2015
  • #4
A5literMan said:
My thought is why change the cam? All stock setup = stock cam. If you want to add a little performance(about the same as a mild cam) throw some 1.7 rr on it and be done. Save you time and money for basically the same results. Just my .02
Click to expand...

So as a for instance, you sig shows a 12.34 second car at 117mph....out of curiosity, what does that have done to it?
 

A5literMan

At least it is lumpy...
5 Year Member
Jul 30, 2011
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Jan 12, 2015
#5
  • Jan 12, 2015
  • #5
At that time it was a nitrous stock longblock w/slightly ported stock heads and a e303 cam. I've actually gone faster with a previous car(89 LX). That car had a completely stock engine and a 175 shot. Only mods were boltons. No engine mods it ran 12.10's. Presently building a 302 with TFS 205 11r heads and going for 11's without a power added and staying street reliable.

The stock cam isn't a bad cam. Like your statement above its all in the heads! Stock e7's just plain stink if you really want to make any power. The 1.7 rr will give you almost as much lift as the "almighty" B cam. With less duration keeping the power band were you want it. Now if you plan on changing heads going forward that's a different story
 
M

maverick31210

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#6
  • Jan 12, 2015
  • #6
A5literMan said:
At that time it was a nitrous stock longblock w/slightly ported stock heads and a e303 cam. I've actually gone faster with a previous car(89 LX). That car had a completely stock engine and a 175 shot. Only mods were boltons. No engine mods it ran 12.10's. Presently building a 302 with TFS 205 11r heads and going for 11's without a power added and staying street reliable.

The stock cam isn't a bad cam. Like your statement above its all in the heads! Stock e7's just plain stink if you really want to make any power. The 1.7 rr will give you almost as much lift as the "almighty" B cam. With less duration keeping the power band were you want it. Now if you plan on changing heads going forward that's a different story
Click to expand...

Got ya....what are your thoughts on home porting the stock heads for a little more gain? Worth it or no...I don't mind pulling them off and taking a Dremel to 'em. Matter of fact, I have a spare pair sitting around I could port and throw on there.
 

A5literMan

At least it is lumpy...
5 Year Member
Jul 30, 2011
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Jan 12, 2015
#7
  • Jan 12, 2015
  • #7
Unless you are an expert and know what you're doing it's a waste of time. I messed with mine and didnt pick up much ET. Better off with GT 40 heads from and explore. With new springs and machine work and purchase price you can have them done for around $500. Obviously aftermarket aluminum heads are the best and what I recommend.
 
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maverick31210

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#8
  • Jan 12, 2015
  • #8
I agree but those aftermarket aluminum ones are no cheap date. I'm thinking the Explorer is the way to go. I haven't looked into it too much since I'm just getting to that part of the motor but is it a straight across swap? I'd love it if it was as easy as swapping stock heads but I'm sure there's something else that you need to do isn't there?
 
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