"Worth the effort" is up to you...but a small aftermarket cam like an E or B would definately liven up a stock engine. The stock cam is built for low end torque and emissions, regardless of how many people make great power with a stock cam. It would be a waste to go any higher than a .500 lift though.
"Worth the effort" is up to you...but a small aftermarket cam like an E or B would definately liven up a stock engine. The stock cam is built for low end torque and emissions, regardless of how many people make great power with a stock cam. It would be a waste to go any higher than a .500 lift though.
This I DO agree with, on the .500 lift comment. Not to mention it'd be pushing the limits on stock valvesprings, IIRC .500 is the recommended limit on stock springs.
If anyone has stock explorer cam specs I'd love to see them, I have stock 5.0 HO cam specs in a book laying around here somewhere.....ah found em! I dont have LSA but here's what I do have...
Okay, stock 5.0 HO camshaft appears to be: .276/.266 (ADV. duration), .445/.445 lift (valve lift at 1.6)
Stock explorer camshaft appears to be: 256/266 adv. duration, .422/.448 (valve lift at 1.6)
I could be wrong on this one but i believe the Explorer cam is the same as the '94 302 Thunderbird and the '93 Cobras....which is as you posted much less of a cam than the stock 5.0 HO Mustang cam.
Also about durration being where it's at....totally. Furthermore if you opted for a split duration cam favoring the exhaust you might be even better off...
So far the best cam i've seen for a basic bolt on engine is a TFS Stage 1, with a Stage 2 being better if you've got some really nice heads and intake setup and can run higher RPMs. Of course i haven't played with all the cams out there so i can't say it's THE best, and of course if you've got the cash you can't go wrong with a custom grind either.
I believe the Stage one is like 275/279 duration and something like .499/.510 or .512 lift. The 2 is a pretty sweet cam if you've got nice heads and is close to an X cam but with the split durration and lift, 286/294 duration and 542/563 lift.
I'd still rather see you run an E cam than a B on a streetable setup....B is lumpier and the powerband is pushed higher. And if youre running an AOD, you can get away with a stock converter with an E cam....with the B, forget about it you're going to need a stall converter for it to drive okay.
The stage 2 is a hell of a mean cam but you need Trick Flow's valvesprings for it.... I run Edelbrock heads, and the springs are rated to .550 lift, so I went with a similar Lunati grind with less lift (.533/.544)
By the way guys, if youre going to compare cams, you're best off comparing duration at .050, as opposed to advertised duration. Most cam manufacturers will read advertised duration at the same location on the lobe, but this isn't always the case, so you can be mislead. Comparing them at .050 insures you're getting a true comparison every time, I pretty much completely ignore advertised duration anymore, unless they dont list it at .050.
You want the powerband were your going to use it... I dont think he's towing jetskies with the 5.0 are you???
If your just after sound invest in a trick exhaust system!
Thats what Im saying, I advise against a cam swap! The reason I suggest an E-303 is that it keeps the powerband real close to stock but adds some top-end.
Yeah but just the addition of a Cobra intake will do the same. And its 1/2 the work!
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?