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CAM Questions...??? why, and what

  • Thread starter Thread starter xkuntrycowboyx
  • Start date Start date Jan 11, 2006

xkuntrycowboyx

Member
Mar 31, 2005
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Marion, Indiana
Jan 11, 2006
#1
  • Jan 11, 2006
  • #1
K.. Cams... why put in a cam?? and when and whats the right one?
What is a Cam gonna do??

I was scannin another article and saw this quote about the E303.
I just want someone to give me some learnin, and maybe some opinions on my setup. ...or direct me to some good cam threads.

hrspwrjunkie
Official Member
There's something you didn't take into consideration. The P heads aren't much different in flow characteristics to the stock Cobra heads (GT-40). The E303 was specifically tuned for that combination and I think you would be happier with the E-Cam in this circumstance as the X was designed for a more aggressive head, the X head. It will also have rougher idling characteristics than the E cam. You will probably see some gain in the top end, but do to the design of the heads, there's a good chance you could see a drop in part throttle driving power as well as low-end power.
Click to expand...

my setups in my sig.... gt40 u/l , gt40 heads... its there

Thanks guys
 

CManT1914

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#2
  • Jan 11, 2006
  • #2
A bigger cam opens the valves more and longer. This of course allows more air into the motor. You want to pick a cam based on where you want your powerband (example my Stage 1 cam makes a lot of power above 3500 and all the way to 6000). When a cam is thrown into the mix with a H/I car, you can gain a lot of power, and a lot of driveability issues if not tuned properly. Since you already have heads and an intake, the next logical step would be a cam, and only you can decide which one is best. Look at the 94/95 FAQ section under combos, and see what everybody else is running for an idea to what's popular.
 

drakesdad

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#3
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Good answer
 

Zero Signal

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#4
  • Jan 12, 2006
  • #4
Just don't get confused with the notion that more duration and more lift is always better. I high flowing head will like a cam with more lift and less duration than a low flowing head.

Then there is lobe separation angle (LSA or LCA depending on who you talk to) which helps sort of shape your power curve. It's the distance between the exhuast and intake lobe center (i.e. point of max lift) A higher LSA will help smooth out your idle and give you some lower range torque where the lower LSA will help with the top end torque (higher hp). I think the higher LSA helps your emissions as well. The stock cam has like 116° LSA and the E-303 has 110° LSA so with a lot less time between the exhuast closing and intake opening, it creates a lot of issues with the idle and vacuum. So unless you have a tuning device, you want to stay around 112° or more. But that's all generally speaking. Everyone has different results.

The there is a lot of talk about advancing and retarding a the cam. Cams almost always come with a 4° built in advance. I think even the stock one does but I'm not sure about that.

I think thats right, unless I'm way backwards
 

OutLawSE

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#5
  • Jan 12, 2006
  • #5
You should consider the Trickflow Stage 1. Its better then the E303 and has a 112LSA.

Allot friendlier then the E303 in an SN95.
 

legalize420

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May 21, 2005
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Jan 12, 2006
#6
  • Jan 12, 2006
  • #6
i like my cam. i get the bucking at low rpms, usually under 1500 rpms. other than that it drives really good. the idle is perfect. i know others will say stay away from it, but it works. im hoping to get a tune within the next few months. if things stopped breaking, lately my mod money has been turning into repair money.
 
G

Green 94 5.0

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#7
  • Jan 12, 2006
  • #7
OutLawSE said:
You should consider the Trickflow Stage 1. Its better then the E303 and has a 112LSA.

Allot friendlier then the E303 in an SN95.
Click to expand...
you took the words right out of my mouth. the tfs stage 1 is a split duration cam favoring the exhaust which our cars like, holds good vacuum and idle, and makes very good power. it is also less expensive. as far as the lsa, the e-cam is also 112. with a gt40 tubular intake, gt40x heads, and the tfs stage 1 cam, with all the other supporting bolt ons, my car made just shy of 300hp and somewhere around 310lb/ft. not too shabby considering the cost of everything. you can have my stage 1 for $100 shipped if you can wait a few weeks for me to pull the motor. if you want an idle clip to get an idea of the sound, the clip below was at 850rpm.....

http://roger.tiora.net/BS/stang/stangidle.mpg (right click, save as)
 

Black95GTS

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Jan 8, 2004
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Jan 12, 2006
#8
  • Jan 12, 2006
  • #8
Green 94 5.0 said:
you took the words right out of my mouth. the tfs stage 1 is a split duration cam favoring the exhaust which our cars like, holds good vacuum and idle, and makes very good power. it is also less expensive. as far as the lsa, the e-cam is also 112. with a gt40 tubular intake, gt40x heads, and the tfs stage 1 cam, with all the other supporting bolt ons, my car made just shy of 300hp and somewhere around 310lb/ft. not too shabby considering the cost of everything. you can have my stage 1 for $100 shipped if you can wait a few weeks for me to pull the motor. if you want an idle clip to get an idea of the sound, the clip below was at 850rpm.....

http://roger.tiora.net/BS/stang/stangidle.mpg (right click, save as)
Click to expand...

To the poster - If you were going to buy an E cam, I'd jump all over this instead. Unless them Florida boys spilled Heineken all over the cam during install/removal, you're getting a much better deal.

I believe the e-cam does have a 110 LSA. Which is why its famous for a lopy idle and lopy driving with our super sensitive SN95 computers.

The TFS Stage 1 isn't very wild, but I've only read good things about it and it can support 300+ rwhp/trq combos tuned correctly.

Adam
 
G

Green 94 5.0

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#9
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Black95GTS said:
To the poster - If you were going to buy an E cam, I'd jump all over this instead. Unless them Florida boys spilled Heineken all over the cam during install/removal, you're getting a much better deal.
Click to expand...
ha ha ha ha.....we have spilled heineken on just about everything else, but never the cam. the only thing that has seen is assembly lube and engine oil. the cam is only 2 years old, that would be contributing to the delinquency of a minor.
 

xkuntrycowboyx

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Jan 12, 2006
#10
  • Jan 12, 2006
  • #10
this maybe a stupid question... but were you jokin bout the heiniken or beer or w.e. ... or would that really cause problems with finish of the metal of the cam and cause probs???
 

xkuntrycowboyx

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Jan 12, 2006
#11
  • Jan 12, 2006
  • #11
anyone elses input on the specs of the tfs or any other cam. you all can see my set up... anyone think it's time for a cam?
 
G

Green 94 5.0

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#12
  • Jan 12, 2006
  • #12
xkuntrycowboyx said:
this maybe a stupid question... but were you jokin bout the heiniken or beer or w.e. ... or would that really cause problems with finish of the metal of the cam and cause probs???
Click to expand...
its a running joke about joe and i. every other pic we take while working on the car has a heineken in it somewhere. its kinda like an adult version of "where's waldo?"



 

xkuntrycowboyx

Member
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Marion, Indiana
Jan 12, 2006
#13
  • Jan 12, 2006
  • #13
gotcha, haha, sorry for the tard question.


still anyones input on the original question
 
I

igotyofire

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Feb 26, 2004
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Southern California
Jan 12, 2006
#14
  • Jan 12, 2006
  • #14
CManT1914 said:
A bigger cam opens the valves more and longer. This of course allows more air into the motor. You want to pick a cam based on where you want your powerband (example my Stage 1 cam makes a lot of power above 3500 and all the way to 6000). When a cam is thrown into the mix with a H/I car, you can gain a lot of power, and a lot of driveability issues if not tuned properly. Since you already have heads and an intake, the next logical step would be a cam, and only you can decide which one is best. Look at the 94/95 FAQ section under combos, and see what everybody else is running for an idea to what's popular.
Click to expand...

didn't you have driving issues with that cam? i thought it was the cam itself that causes the issues, because i heard if one had nice heads and a intake with the stock cam the car should run just as good as stock
 

red ink

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Jan 12, 2006
#15
  • Jan 12, 2006
  • #15
Look at the reveiw section on stangnet. they have a bunch of things on cams. Lots of people like the steeda cams
 

VibrantRedGT

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Jan 12, 2006
#16
  • Jan 12, 2006
  • #16
Black95GTS said:
To the poster - If you were going to buy an E cam, I'd jump all over this instead. Unless them Florida boys spilled Heineken all over the cam during install/removal, you're getting a much better deal.



Adam
Click to expand...

Green at work.



 

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Green 94 5.0

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necessary for proper automotive repair.....
 

jorge.pena

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Jan 13, 2006
#18
  • Jan 13, 2006
  • #18
Zero signal is correct

When it comes to cams and carburators bigger is not always better. your cam is one of the most important parts, if not the most important, that you'll put into that motor. You need to make sure that your cam matches the rest of your combo or you're wasting your money. If you want a good answer to your question go to tech help lines for any of the cam companies out there, or Ford Racing. they should be able to tell you what you need. And as far as do you need a new cam, yes you do. you have better flowing than stock heads & intake, you need a better than stock cam
 
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