cam swap: reinstalling romac balancer

[go-stang5.0]

I rented an install tool for it but the way it sits I'm gonna be able to get a deep socket on the installer nut to get it started...but I'm gonna bottom out socket before the balancer makes it on all the way.

I want to avoid using the installer altogether and try the heating method. Anyone have any issues with the heating it up in the oven and sliding it on method?

I just know I'm gonna end up getting it on half way and getting stuck there. Any tips would be nice.

 

[BlownFiveLiter]

I think it was Grady who mentioned that he didn't know why they had to be so tight. I really have to agree with that. I might ask a machine shop to hone a thousandth (.001) or so out of the inside, so it's not such a tight fit. It might cost $10, since it'll take them a whopping 5 minutes. It'd literally be like one pass with a honing stone and they're done.

 

[go-stang5.0]

I dont want to trim the I.D. on the balancer cuz its a really tight fit for a reason. Apperently the keyway is there only to guide install...the tightness of the balancer on the crank is what prevents minute play and improves the effectiveness of the balancer.

 

[final5-0]

Yes I do admit to being critical to the Romac brand of hb's

Its a quality part for sure
but
I think the unusual tight fit is totally uncalled for

Over the years I've been in this hobby I've seen many hose up
hb's
crank snout keyways
crank snout threads
and other related things ... with just a stock or OEM hb

The reason is ..........
working with the hb is one of those things that needs to be
done correctly and there is no or very little room for an
error of judgment if something unexpected comes up :Word:

When you add in the extra tight fit of the Romac

It just compounds the whole process

Bottom Line Is ...........
A fellow can get into trouble before he even knows it

There are several other choices of hb's available where you don't have
to deal with the hassle that goes along with that extra tightness

Grady

 

[final5-0]

I dont want to trim the I.D. on the balancer cuz its a really tight fit for a reason. Apperently the keyway is there only to guide install...the tightness of the balancer on the crank is what prevents minute play and improves the effectiveness of the balancer.

Well

The keyway is necessary to give you the proper reference
of TDC in the #1 hole

It can be helpful with the crank gear that turns the cam via the chain too

Grady

 

[go-stang5.0]

well I'm gonna try baking the bad boy. If I can slide it on by hand theres pretty much no way I can screw up the balancer/keyway or the threads in the snout. I'll try baking it for 10 min. at 250 deg. I'll let you guys know how it goes tonight. Wish me luck....

 

[mojopony]

I had a helluva time installing a Romac balancer on my sn95. It was almost a press fit on the crank.

 

[final5-0]

A thing or two that can help with putting it back on

Oil the snout up with some light oil and use fine emery cloth to remove
any burrs from the snout and key

Do the same to the hb

Clean up things real good and use anti seize on the snout and threads

Put a bit of light oil on the hb to help ease it in the oil seal of
front cover

If it gets tight ... don't force things

Find out why things are not going smoothly

The last thing you wanna do is hose up your crank snout threads :Word:

Good Luck!

Grady

 

[xkuntrycowboyx]

how'd it go!?

 

[go-stang5.0]

I'll try tonight...I'll be posting sometime in the wee hrs. of the morning.

 

[go-stang5.0]

preheated oven to 250 and put it in for 10 min. tried to install....no luck.

Immediately turned the oven back on (now to 300) and tossed it in. Waited till the oven got to 300 then left it in for like 10 min. Again...no luck.

I wonder how my mechanic (now retired) ever got it on the first time. I'll call DSS tomorrow and see if they have any suggestions.

 

[go-stang5.0]

mojopony how did you get it on.....describe in detail please. I'm gonna try baking it again tomorrow 300 deg. but for longer and see if I can get the keyway engaged. If I can get it to there....I'll be ok. If I can't then maybe I'll make a trip to the machine shop. Hell with it..

 

[go-stang5.0]

ok called DSS and they told me to check the O.D of the crank and the I.D. of the balancer. There should be a .001" to .002" interference fit. If its more than that I can have the inside of the balancer honed. Apperently they do that in their shop also when they have to install a really tight fitting romac. So I'm gonna take some measurements and get the sucker honed slightly. THen hopefully it will slide on when I bake it.

 

[final5-0]

I'd tell you to use a brake cylinder hone but it would seem to me it would
hang up on the key way slot

Maybe if you took some material off the corner of the slot that would catch
the hone when you consider the direction of rotation you would use

Good Luck!

Grady

 

[go-stang5.0]

I'm just gonna go tto my local machine shop...they will do it for like 5-10 bux. But yea DSS mentioned I could use a brake cylinder hone also. I have never actually seen one so I'm not gonna try my first time on my $300 balancer.

 

[final5-0]

I'm just gonna go tto my local machine shop...they will do it for like 5-10 bux. But yea DSS mentioned I could use a brake cylinder hone also. I have never actually seen one so I'm not gonna try my first time on my $300 balancer.

There is really nothing to it to use one

but

You would most likely spend about that same amount to obtain one

Grady

 

[BlownFiveLiter]

I told ya about taking off .001" in there... The machine shop will probably just use a honing stone that would usually do something like a lawnmower engine. It's a shame you have to spend more money to use the thing though. Send Romac the bill

 

[go-stang5.0]

I'll get it back tomorrow night. It apperently isnt absolutely needed as my mechanic was able to get it on 3-4 yrs. ago. But I bet it was a bit easier for him cuz the engine was on a stand....I'm so worried about peeking thru the bumper and trying to line up that keyway and drawing the thing on. I know I would screw up something...so I opted not to take a chance and just have the sucker honed.

Personally I bought the romac with the aluminum outer ring because I wanted to save weight (rotating and static). I'm anal like that so if I ever replaced this one it would prolly be another aluminum romac going on unless someone makes something lighter.

I even had my clutch pressure plate drilled with lightening holes and I'd prolly get a carbon fiber driveshaft if I could afford it.