Can I crack 13 w/o touching the engine????

personally, i didn't feel any difference after i took mine off. also, i've heard that it only starts to help until you're into the 400hp range

95Vert said:

thanx guys. i've been told about getting a valve body but I already have a shift kit, what's the difference? I was thinking about the 3000 stall from edge racing. how much is a tweecer and what else can i do with it? currently for weight reduction, i have removed the STB, x-brace under tranny, sway bar, smog pump(will run shorter belt at track), and i already bought the aluminum d/s. what else could i do? I also know about the dogbone after the gears.

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They prob mean buy a valve body with the shift kit already installed. Rather than pulling your tranny apart and installing all spings into your existing valve body you just remove your valve body and replace it with one that already has a shift kit. But you have one already so thats pointless. I'd say it is possible with the right combo. If your dont have to worry about smog L/T's and off road h or x pipe will free up a lot of power. Drag radials help you get out of the hole and I've heard nothing but good things about the Precision industries 2800 stall. Dont think it does much more than help you launch harder but I may be wrong. Do the gears, full exhuast, d/r's, PI stall and take it to the track. You should be pretty damn close at least.

View attachment 522592 150 horses at the flywheel with out opening the engine

95Vert said:

i forgot to ask, what does a stall REALLY DO? i know it allows the car to stall higher and take off at a higher rpm, but after that, what does it do?

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its like slipping the clutch the whole time.....

peoepl also have the misnomer that a 3k stall will not rev until you get the motor spinning that high. If you have a 3k stall when you floor it, it should flash up a little higher thn that. this means instead of trying to getout of the hole at 1300 you are leaving ar the torque you have at 3500. this means its going to hit the ground alot harder and you will need tire. when you cruise around on the street it will sit a little higher than usuae, and when you are at part throttle on the street it will probably sit aat low 2000s. make sure you get a lock up for the interstate!

also once you are going your RPMs are going to stay in your power band the whole time...like the rpms will never drop below say 4k. this will also make the intake you choose more effective because you wont sufer the lack of botomend in the aod that might come with this and hurt your off the line performance.

3k stall will be great
4.10 gears, 3.90s if you cannot handle the 4.10s, but you will love the launch with the 4.10s and 3k stall.
nittos work fine for alot of my friends in their stalled cars... but once my roomate made 404 to the wheels and went to the 4k stall from the 3500, he couldnt run on nittos. choose your tire, BFg nitto et street, m&h
Longtubes... you want the midrange power that comes.... whatever you do dont get unequal shorties if at all possible

another nice budget move would be GT40 Ps with stock cam and 1.7 rockers

the torque from this would really move your vert

wytstang said:

View attachment 522585 150 horses at the flywheel with out opening the engine

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where did u get that little NOS guy? and where does everyone get those smilies that are not in the page of what stangnet gives you. thanks lol i know stupid question

5literstang said:

where did u get that little NOS guy? and where does everyone get those smilies that are not in the page of what stangnet gives you. thanks lol i know stupid question

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Just right click and save like you would a pic. Then just upload it to a web host like you do any pic like so View attachment 522584

thanks but where do u get urs from? is there a website?

I'll pm you with some sites that I have. I don't want to hijack the tread

haha thanks man, yea sorry about hijacking ur thread man

RacerRick said:

I dont understand why many of the guys remove the strut tower brace! it weighs maybe 2lbs. and really stiffens up the front end, you WANT a stiff chassis whether you drag race or carve corners!

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It will not fit under many intake manifolds. Such as mine.

well he already has the cobra intake so i think that'll be fine, right?

95Vert said:

I saw this thread on corral.net and decided to ask the same question on this forum. I have a 95 AODE VERT Currently I only have the cobra intake(so technically I have touched the engine), asp al. pulleys, K&N densecharger, and a shift kit. I know it's gonna take a lot of work, but would i have a chance. I'm planning on getting 4.10s, but how can i get rid of the rev limiter to better my times. I'm also talking about getting into the 13s w/o NOS. I want to be able to get the most out of my engine before getting a power adder. I would really appreciate your help.
Thanx

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I think it can be done and that is my goal as well. I also have 95 AODE Vert and as soon as I close on selling my rental home I plan on finishing my project to get there. I figure with a Eddy or a Cobra intake, CAI and short belt I should have it. This is what I have so far:

1 5/8 shorties
2.5" h-pipe with flowmasters and 3" dumps
B&M 3000 stall (get an Edge or PI)
4.10's
UD pullies
JMS chip (it will fix the shift points and rev limiter)
BFG DR's

I currently run 14.651 @92 with 1.9 60ft. If the intake, CAI and short belt don't get me the 13.99 or better I'm looking for then I will resort to loosing weight (both me and the car). It don't help that I'm 230lbs and the car although I never weighed it has everything on it so it weighs a lot.

95Vert said:

I saw this thread on corral.net and decided to ask the same question on this forum. I have a 95 AODE VERT Currently I only have the cobra intake(so technically I have touched the engine), asp al. pulleys, K&N densecharger, and a shift kit. I know it's gonna take a lot of work, but would i have a chance. I'm planning on getting 4.10s, but how can i get rid of the rev limiter to better my times. I'm also talking about getting into the 13s w/o NOS. I want to be able to get the most out of my engine before getting a power adder. I would really appreciate your help.
Thanx

Click to expand...

I think it can be done and that is my goal as well. I also have 95 AODE Vert and as soon as I close on selling my rental home I plan on finishing my project to get there. I figure with a Eddy or a Cobra intake, CAI and short belt I should have it. This is what I have so far:

1 5/8 shorties
2.5" h-pipe with flowmasters and 3" dumps
B&M 3000 stall (get an Edge or PI)
4.10's
UD pullies
JMS chip (it will fix the shift points and rev limiter)
BFG DR's

I currently run 14.651 @92 with 1.9 60ft. If the intake, CAI and short belt don't get me the 13.99 or better I'm looking for then I will resort to loosing weight (both me and the car). It don't help that I'm 230lbs and the car although I never weighed it has everything on it so it weighs a lot.