I was thinking about going with cobra intake, headers, exhasut, pullies, cai, 1.7 roller rockers, and some aftermarket heads. This is on a 94 gt. Would this get me there? If so what heads should I use?
Thanks
Thanks
can I get 300-325 fwhp without a cam swap?
- Thread starter iowabowhunter
- Start date
You wont EVER even get to 50 fwhp with a Mustang.
Now if you could settle for rwhp then you could get it with that. but if you are doing the heads why not go the little bit extra and do the cam?
EDIT: When I said fwhp I was meaning front wheel. lol
Now if you could settle for rwhp then you could get it with that. but if you are doing the heads why not go the little bit extra and do the cam?
EDIT: When I said fwhp I was meaning front wheel. lol
From online calculators using track times and a weight of 3500lbs with me in the car I am right at 300fwhp at sea level. It also calculates to about 270rwhp at sea level. Still have the stock cat back and stamped steal rockers. See sig.
yar its possible. some guy on here almost hit 300 whp with a stock cam with h/i.
but, as someone who almost left the stock cam in, i say dont!
but, as someone who almost left the stock cam in, i say dont!
It can probably be done, but to take advantage of the money you're putting into aftermarket heads, you're gonna want an new cam. Why don't you want to do a cam swap?
If your going through all the trouble of pulling the heads, why dont you just put a cam in? The car will perform better and you should easily be able to hit your HP goal.
Trust, me wait and save for a cam,waterpump, and timing chain set. Once you have it stripped down and the heads off, the rest is just a matter of tilting up the A/C condenser, removing the water pump, timing cover and stock cam. It took me maybe a few hours to do the cam swap at that point. But that was hours of gasket scraping before I discovered the magic of airplane paint remover 
I just didn't want the hassle of fussing with the cam in such a confined space. I'm not looking at making this a race car, I just want to be able run with the new GT's and I figured it'd take 300-325 hp to do that.
Thanks
Bob
Thanks
Bob
iowabowhunter said:
if you want a naturally aspirated engine that would compete with the new GT's, your going to have to swap the cam IMHO. why go through the process of swapping the heads without swapping the cam. you'll be a lot happier with a new cam. i'm out!!!!!!!!
iowabowhunter said:
Well Bob
Here are a couple of thoughts for you to consider
1) Everybody says stuff similar to what you've said
I don't want or need a lot
just a little more power 
I know I have
Many times 2) With the motor down to a heads off condition
A cam swap is not all that much more of an effort to do
At this point in time ... It costs you nothing but time to:
Look at dyno pulls of those combos who used parts similar to what you have in mind. Learn from the Mistakes, Failures, and Successes of others who have done what you seek to do
No matter what choice of heads you go with ............
I'd do a cam to go with em
Even if it was from the milk toast, wimpy power producing variety category, as long as it is suited for the combo, it will complement the ENTIRE combo much more so than if you stayed with the stocker. You don't have to use a cam with tons of duration that will barely idle or pull past 6K
300 flywheel hp is not all that much really ... 300 X .85 = 255rwhp
Heck, Cobra's do that so you certainly could without a cam
Grady
My vote is do a cam also!
You still will only have 0 fwhp but it will help your rwhp alot!
If you drove a ricer than you could make some fwhp
You still will only have 0 fwhp but it will help your rwhp alot!
If you drove a ricer than you could make some fwhp
To answer your question, yes you can:
Track Heat Intake
Track Heat Heads
1.7 RR
Retard the cam 4 degrees
24 or 30 pound injectors
75mm TB, 80mm MAF
Tune
Probly want a bigger fuel pump as well
Rev to 6500.
Enjoy. Also keep this in mind when "running" with the newer stangs... they are probly a couple hundred pounds heavier as well.
Adam
Track Heat Intake
Track Heat Heads
1.7 RR
Retard the cam 4 degrees
24 or 30 pound injectors
75mm TB, 80mm MAF
Tune
Probly want a bigger fuel pump as well
Rev to 6500.
Enjoy. Also keep this in mind when "running" with the newer stangs... they are probly a couple hundred pounds heavier as well.
Adam
Man O Man 
I gotta throw in with tjh566 here
You guys sure are givin Bob a hard time about fwhp
I thought he was talking about fly wheel hp
Now that I see this thread ............
I gotta think ya'll are talkin front wheel
Then again ........... Seems to me
True Blue ... Die Hard ...........
Loyal American V8 Muscle Power kinda peeps
Don't know squat about front wheel stuff
Ya'll be nice now and give Ole Bob a break
Maybe he was talkin fly wheel
Grady
I gotta throw in with tjh566 here You guys sure are givin Bob a hard time about fwhp
I thought he was talking about fly wheel hp
Now that I see this thread ............
I gotta think ya'll are talkin front wheel
Then again
........... Seems to me True Blue ... Die Hard ...........
Loyal American V8 Muscle Power kinda peeps
Don't know squat about front wheel stuff
Ya'll be nice now and give Ole Bob a break
Maybe he was talkin fly wheel
Grady
final5-0 said:Man O Man
You guys sure are givin Bob a hard time about fwhp
I thought he was talking about fly wheel hp
Now that I see this thread ............
I gotta think ya'll are talkin front wheel
Then again
True Blue ... Die Hard ...........
Loyal American V8 Muscle Power kinda peeps
Don't know squat about front wheel stuff
Ya'll be nice now and give Ole Bob a break
Maybe he was talkin fly wheel
Grady
Thanks Grady I am talking flywheel
OK so I'll go with a cam also. So I think I'm going with a Cobra intake and am leaning towards the Trick Flows but not set on them. Looking at putting some 3.55's in the rear so what cam should I use? I'm not going to race this car and as of right now it is completely stock. I've also read that the AFR heads offer the most power out of the box. I was thinking these may be a little overkill for my application.
Thanks
Bob
AFR heads probably do offer the most power out of the box, and although they're still relatively new to the market versus the TFS heads, they've definitely proven they perform. I personally went with the TFS heads based on their reputation, and the fact that I could get the 2.02 intake valve without worrying about PTV clearance issues like I would, had I gotten a set of AFR 185s. I'd say go for the AFR 165 heads if you're planning on running them in box-stock condition, as my TFS heads definitely could have used a clean-up on every exhaust port, whereas the AFRs would have been perfect since they're already CNC machined instead of left in the as-cast condition.
I think I've decided to go with a H/C/I set-up. I see the TFS street heat top-end kit is pretty popular. Is this about the most cost effective route to go? Also I have a Cobra intake already and I would like to use it. How much would this choke down the TFS kit or would it?
Thanks Again
Thanks Again
If you already have a Cobra intake you'd like to use, port the lower, and pick up some AFR/TFS/Edelbrock/etc heads and a cam (+ other misc parts) and save yourself some money. With a custom cam, a good set of heads, and the intake you already have, you could outperform that kit.
