can i just disconnect egr

9

91lxntch

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altoona,p.a

Jun 9, 2004

#1

• Jun 9, 2004

• #1

i have heard somewere that you can just unplug the egr harness and cap the vac line and it wont effect the car i have a weird idling problem caused from my egr valve what can i do for a quick fix that wont effect driveability or performance..i would like to be able to keep the valve on there for emisions they are just visual ..so it dosent need to work...thanks....if it isnt this then only other thing it could be is the rockers are to tight hanging a valve open..i replaced everything and i get a 34 -87-44-94 code the last 2 are ok i have eliminated the smog pump stuff completely ...

 

FiveOhhStang

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Jan 27, 2003

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Sanger, Cali.

Jun 9, 2004

#2

• Jun 9, 2004

• #2

You can take off the Vacumm line that goes to the EGR itself & plug it up with something. I have mine unplugged and it doesnt hurt anything IMO.
-Nick

 

jrichker

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Jun 9, 2004

#3

• Jun 9, 2004

• #3

WHY take the EGR off? There are no performance benefits for a street driven car.

The EGR shuts off at wide open throttle. It increases gas mileage and reduces the engine's tendency to ping at part throttle.

 

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91lxntch

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altoona,p.a

Jun 9, 2004

#4

• Jun 9, 2004

• #4

because im throwing a code....and i beleive it is my idle problem

 

jrichker

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#5

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Code 34 EGR voltage above closed limit - Failed sensor, carbon between EGR pintle valve and seat holding the valve off its seat. Remove the EGR valve and clean it with carbon remover. Prior to re-installing see if you can blow air through the flange side of the EGR by mouth. If it leaks, there is carbon stuck on the pintle valve seat, replace the EGR valve ($85-$95).

This will affect idle quality by diluting the intake air charge. Replace the EGR valve or install a blocker plate between the EGR and the EGR spacer.


Code 87 – fuel pump primary circuit failure

 

HISSIN50

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#6

• Jun 9, 2004

• #6

as Jrichker is saying (in simpler terms cuz im not smart like him. ):

a little test: the EGR is supplied vac under certain conditions. there should be none at idle (where you are havin issues). find another vac line [an unimportant one; i.e. not FPR vac line, etc] and connect it to your EGR. this should introduce spend gasses and your idle should degrade noticably, as JR said. if the idle stays the same (and it idles as it does now), i would look further into it. if you notice your idle degrade, i might look elsewhere for a solution to your problem.

sorry - i read my post and it makes little sense. im too tired. hopefully you get the gist. good luck.

good luck.

 

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91lxntch

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altoona,p.a

Jun 9, 2004

#7

• Jun 9, 2004

• #7

well today i replaced the pvc valve /hose/ and noticed that in my new lower intake there is no breather filter so i am going to add one of those could that be a source as well..also had advance run codes and there were none ......also i have no vac in the hose thats on the egr at idle....which i was told if it has vac then theres somthign wrong and i would have to swap vac lines i am at wits end with the idle prob if it isnt this then it has to be my valves are to tight ..every start it will surge for awhile then finnally settle sometimes it stalls ....i replaced everything ...

 

HISSIN50

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#8

• Jun 10, 2004

• #8

ok, im a bit confused. what is your problem with your idle, exactly?

you are correct - the EGR vac line should have no vac at idle.

it seems that some/many intakes dont come with the metal screen - i personally would not run w/o one.

why do you assume it is something other than the fuel management. surging is a common occurance, and perhaps you have an additional sensor out of calibration, which exacerbates the condition.

just my guessing; more info would help a lot. - good luck.

 

Venom4.6

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Jun 10, 2004

#9

• Jun 10, 2004

• #9

The first thing I'd do is pull and inspect your spark plugs. Alot of times on engines with alot of miles has to burn off any oil and carbon on the spark electrodes. Might as well replace them while there out. Rough idle can be caused from many different things. Don't rule out the obvious. Check fuel pressure, air filter, IAC, PCV and all vacuum lines. Use a piece of hose to check for vacuum leaks around the intake and other hose connections. It's also possible you have a leaking head gasket.

 

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91lxntch

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altoona,p.a

Jun 10, 2004

#10

• Jun 10, 2004

• #10

here is everything i have replaced..........

iab/egr/vac lines/ checked timing/replaced pcv and screen and hose/ive tried readjusting my idle/ran codes/reset ecu/also sprayed carb cleaner all over the place and the idle never changed ...nothing worked ...the only thing i get is code 34-67.....i wanted to know if i can leave the egr plugged in and just disconect the vac lin e from it but if it dosent pull vac at idle then whats the point the only thing i have left is to readjust my valves they may be to tight ..

the idle will surge every time i start car except for the first start of the day it will idle perfect (so obvious its ok when it is cold) sometimes it will hang up around 1200 or so when i pull up to a stop light then after a few seconds it will fall back down to 900

 

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91lxntch

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altoona,p.a

Jun 10, 2004

#11

• Jun 10, 2004

• #11

forgot to add i also replaced the plugs/wires/cap/rotor/tfi module/coil .....never started till i did hci swap im also runing a c&l 76 mass and a 70mm t.b with a 255 h.p fuel pump 30lb inj and a kirban reg set at 38-39 vac off