Hey...I'll be building a stiff sprung road and track car...Not a Caddy.
oh i dont think you understand how bad its gonna be
Its all in the spring/shock choice. If you go with a good progressive spring like Eibach or Steeda Sports and pair them with Bilstiens or Tokico Illuminas (adjustable) then you can have the awesome handling with a good ride too.
Also, dont go insaine with the supporting stuff. Dont get the spherical bearings on the controll arms, get the polly bushings. DOnt get the solid motor mounts or torque limiter. Also a good sound deadning mat helps. If you do the entire floor with Dynamat or VG2 and overlap the sheets 1/2" then it will make the whole floor more rigid and allow the suspension to do its work.
A pan hard bar is also a really good idea. I like to do a five link keeping the upper/lower controll arms instead of adding a torque arm because they tend to make the car harsher and mor road noise.
BTW...I checked kbb and they list the stats as 2950 but my sill tag from Nissan lists it at 3750lbs. What gives?
I ment to do the dynamat in addition to the FLSFCsi dont think the OP wants something very streetable, only thing i noticed about having a panhard only the car tends to slide alot more around turn since the rear end is so planted underneath the car, poly bushings i agree with on the chassis end but pherical would be best on the axle, and saldy when it comes to dynamat its cheaper to have subframes installed then it is to buy dynamat and install it, simpler too
The GVWR (or whatever it is) is the weight of the car +200lbs per seat.
Your car has 4 seats.... 3750-800= 2950
I ment to do the dynamat in addition to the FLSFCsTo do the car it would need about $200 in material and its easy to put in yourself.
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Yeah i have Tokico Illuminas set to the stiffest setting...I feel EVERYTHING. Mildly bumpy roads feel like they're gonna rattle the car apart. But theres nothing like sliding around corners with no swaying. or going 100+ MPH on a SMOOTH highway and not getting that floating effect that a stock suspension gives you.
But i no longer Play CD's (Skippin ain't pimpin)....good thing i have USB and MP3 inputs.
I love that smooth feeling! My tends to get the floating effect at about 130mph that when i shut it down. But i did steeda instead, i have the Tokico's just not the adjustable ones. How do you like them? I want a set for my Notch.
oh i dont think you understand how bad its gonna be
thats the areo dynamics of the car, 130 the wind starts lift the front end of the car up
time to fab up a front splitter...
i'm on the same boat as the original builder... i've been working on my project (on and off) for the past 6 years now... i bought a decent starting point, started with minor bolt ons, installed the MM Road and track box, converted to 4 wheel cobra brakes, added wide rubber, now i'm back to the little bits until either a k-member swap or new motor build...
Every phase of the project has brought alot of smiles (as well as some frustrations) but its always been a learning experience. If your gonna do the project "right" take that $10K budget and wipe your ass with it...
for instance, my "modified" M-2300-K brake setup with MM adaptors and 2000 Cobra R front components, R58 Motorsport wheels set me back between $3.5k-$4K... but i wont need more unless i get competetive... and thats not in the plans
Does anyone know how good this setup is?
Trick Flow Specialties TFS-K514-360-350 - Trick Flow® 360 HP Twisted Wedge® Top-End Engine Kits for Ford 5.0L – SummitRacing.com
I love that smooth feeling! My tends to get the floating effect at about 130mph that when i shut it down. But i did steeda instead, i have the Tokico's just not the adjustable ones. How do you like them? I want a set for my Notch.
alot pf people on here have used that kit and really liked it
Price seems pretty reasonable from what I have seen. How much would a good bottom end rebuild cost on a 5.0? And with a good rebuild and this Trick Flow kit how much HP might I expect?
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