CAN I REMOVE THIS PART?

aod92

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#1

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• #1

Like the title says. I don't know what it's called but if your looking at the t.b. from the passanger fender it is on the right side of the t.b. Its held on by 2 nuts has a vacume line going to it and its round. I believe its for emmisions. Can i take that peice off and make a plate for it to cover the hole that will be there. Also what is the most timing you can run. I've heard you can turn up the timing till the car stops making power. Is that true?

 

SeventyMach1

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Feb 10, 2006

#2

• Feb 10, 2006

• #2

What you're describing sounds like the idle air control valve. (IAC) No, your car needs that.

 

SeventyMach1

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Feb 10, 2006

#3

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• #3

And that's probably not a vacuum line .... it's wiring for the electrical part of the valve.

 

aod92

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#4

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SeventyMach1 said:

What you're describing sounds like the idle air control valve. (IAC) No, your car needs that.

Click to expand...

I know it's not the IAC. I know what that is. It's on the other side of the t.b.

 

HISSIN50

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#5

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EGR?

I would not remove it unless you are going to turn off its function in the computer. You might get part throttle detonation otherwise (That is hit or miss).

Timing will depend upon your individual motor. I will say that you reach a point most of the time where performance starts to fall off, but you have not heard pinging yet. Yet another reason to not run on the ragged edge of detonation.

If you want people to toss you some numbers, I would recommend a sig so people can guess more accurately (i.e. alum heads can generally take more timing, etc).

Good luck.

 

SeventyMach1

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Feb 10, 2006

#6

• Feb 10, 2006

• #6

aod92 said:

I know it's not the IAC. I know what that is. It's on the other side of the t.b.

Click to expand...

You said on the right side of the TB. Is the EGR not on the left ... and the IAC on the right?

 

HISSIN50

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Feb 11, 2006

#7

• Feb 11, 2006

• #7

SeventyMach1 said:

You said on the right side of the TB. Is the EGR not on the left ... and the IAC on the right?

Click to expand...

No no, your other right. Maybe he meant to say that he looked from the driver side, or he has some goofy truck manifold.

Justin, I would have guessed the same thing you did. Once IAC was disqualified, EGR seemed logical.

 

aod92

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#8

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SeventyMach1 said:

You said on the right side of the TB. Is the EGR not on the left ... and the IAC on the right?

Click to expand...

Sorry, your correct. I ment the left.

 

aod92

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#9

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For the timing question i had here is a list of my mods. trick flow street heat intake,trick flow t.w. ported heads,anderson b31 cam,30lb. injectors,accufab adjustable regulater,255lph intank pump,mac shorty headers,bbk off road h pipe, flow master mufflers,c&l mass air,pro products 70mm t.b., trick flow 1.6 rockers and push rods. I'm sure i forgot a couple of mods but that is most of them. Any help would be appreciated.

 

jrichker

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#10

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• #10

i would recommend that you get a better understanding of what is what and how it works before removing anything. Here's a book that will get you started with how the Ford electronic engine control or "computer" works.

Ford Fuel Injection & Electronic Engine Control 1988-1993 by James Probst: ISBN 0-8376-0301-3.

It's about $20 from Borders.com see http://www.amazon.com/ . Select boo...very good, and I found it to be very helpful.

 

S

snoboardcore

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#11

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• #11

isn't the anderson b31 a blower cam

 

vristang

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Feb 11, 2006

#12

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• #12

I removed my egr a couple of years ago with the 351w conversion.
I regret that choice, and now it is a major hassle to get it hooked back up.

jason

 

Mustang5L5

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Feb 11, 2006

#13

• Feb 11, 2006

• #13

aod92 said:

For the timing question i had here is a list of my mods. trick flow street heat intake,trick flow t.w. ported heads,anderson b31 cam,30lb. injectors,accufab adjustable regulater,255lph intank pump,mac shorty headers,bbk off road h pipe, flow master mufflers,c&l mass air,pro products 70mm t.b., trick flow 1.6 rockers and push rods. I'm sure i forgot a couple of mods but that is most of them. Any help would be appreciated.

Click to expand...

The max timing all depends on the car. There isn't just a set number you can turn to and be fine.

Base timing is 10 degrees. Typically most cars can run about 14-16 degrees before they expeirence detonation.

Start filling your tank with 93 octane and run a tank or two through it. Then get a timing gun and bump the timing up a little at a time. Try out 12 degrees first and take it for a WOT run and see if you get detonation. If not, then bump it up to 14 degrees and go out again and check for detonation. Above 14 degrees i would bump it up 1 degree at a time. If you get detonation, i would bump it down 2 and set it.

 

aod92

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Feb 12, 2006

#14

• Feb 12, 2006

• #14

snoboardcore said:

isn't the anderson b31 a blower cam

Click to expand...

Yes it is a blower cam. But when i called the tech line at anderson he told me it was the best cam to use with an aod. For some reason the aod cars made more power on the dyno with a blower cam. Also i'm spraying the car and i'm sure it doesn't hurt.