Can somebody please explain the lowering process to me?

[70stangcoupe]

First things first: I plan on purchasing 18" Cobra R wheels in the near future. At the same time, to avoid the 4x4 look, I want to lower it.

I want to use a high quality name brand. What does everyone suggest? FRPP? Eibach? I'd like to maintain a good ride, but stock isnt' the best in the world, so I can deal. What comes with the kits I can order? Just springs? What about Shocks/Struts? Do you have to buy different shocks and struts to compensate for lowering springs?

After you install the springs (and if needed, shocks/struts), you need to go get an alignment right? What are CC Plates? Can you lower a vehicle without needing CC plates?

How far can you lower a Mustang with 18s and not rub?

I'm just trying to understand the whole process better, and get a good idea of total investment, not counting labor charges. Any help you can give me is GREATLY appreciated!

 

[trinity_gt]

I want to use a high quality name brand. What does everyone suggest? FRPP? Eibach? I'd like to maintain a good ride, but stock isnt' the best in the world, so I can deal. What comes with the kits I can order? Just springs? What about Shocks/Struts? Do you have to buy different shocks and struts to compensate for lowering springs?

I'll defer this to people with experience with various kits. Eibach and FRPP make good stuff, no question.

After you install the springs (and if needed, shocks/struts), you need to go get an alignment right? What are CC Plates? Can you lower a vehicle without needing CC plates?

Yes, you'll need an alignment. CC plates are "camber correction" plates. As the suspension moves through its arc of travel, the camber of the wheel changes (camber being the tilt, in or out, of the top of the wheel). You might notice if you jack the car up and take the weight off the front suspension that the tops of the wheels take a noticeable tilt outward and, when fully compressed, are tilted inwards. Well, if you artifically lower the car, the suspension is at a different part of its travel and the camber will be "off" factory specs. Camber is not factory adjustable so you need to install plates (CC plates) on the top of the strut tower that allow a camber correction.

CC plates probably aren't needed for small lowering amounts. An inch may not need it but if you're going 1.5" or more you might be advised to get the plates.

The other thing you need to think about is bump steer. If you lower the frame with respect to the hubs the tie rods will be at an angle from the rack (attached to the frame) to the rod end (attached to the knuckle.) In this condition, additional suspension movement can cause bump steer: the action of the suspenion moving causes the wheels to turn slightly causing directional changes as the car traverses bumps. To fix this, you need to correct the tie rod angle by installing either bump steer tie-rod ends or by installing new bushings in the steering rack designed to raise it. Again, a small amount of lowering might get away without doing this but more lowering will require it.

 

[2002BLGT]

pics in sig of prokit from eibach , dont need a CC plate with these , but do show minimal wear on the inside front tires , but not enough to worry about ....IMO

 

[70stangcoupe]

Thanks for the quick replies guys.

trinity_Gt, how far can I lower without needing to correct any bump steer or needing CC plates. I wouldn't dream of going past 1 1/2". Will this be okay?

 

[cap42]

I run with the FRPP C springs and needed very little correction of my alignment it lowered my front just over a 1 1/4'' and the rear 1 5/8 I didn't need CC plates but I do need new shocks so I'd recommend saving money till you can do all of them at once just to save the hassel of having to do it twice. You have to disconnect your shocks to get the springs out to begin with so just save yourself the time or money if your paying someone to do it.

 

[pinski]

I've got the FRPP C-springs about to go into my '97. I've already got KYB shocks and struts on the car, so I'm not planning on upgrading those when I install the springs. Since my drop will be about the same as cap42 said (that's what I've been told numerous times) I'm not going with the caster/camber plates...I'll just get the car re-aligned the old-fashioned way when I get the springs installed. Next install after that will be some subframes

 

[DJsZincGT]

I run with the FRPP C springs and needed very little correction of my alignment it lowered my front just over a 1 1/4'' and the rear 1 5/8 I didn't need CC plates but I do need new shocks so I'd recommend saving money till you can do all of them at once just to save the hassel of having to do it twice. You have to disconnect your shocks to get the springs out to begin with so just save yourself the time or money if your paying someone to do it.

No need to say more....this pretty much sums it up.

 

[nickthegenius]

I would go with any of the "name brand" springs. FRPP are actually manufactured by Eibach and are similar in drop to the Eibach Prokit, but the spring rates are different. I have H&R Super Sports and they lowered the front about 2" and the rear about 1.75". The spring rate on these springs is higher than the stock springs, but not high enough that it makes the ride harsh or anything. Typically when you order, all you will get are springs. The H&Rs come with a new pinion snubber which takes about 3 minutes to change.

Although some people get by with using the stock shocks for awhile, they will usually be short lived with the lowering springs. If you are like me, I'd rather do the job once while the car is apart so I did shocks/struts and springs. I have the Mach I struts and shocks. They are manufactured by Tokico for Ford and the dampening is a great match for the H&R SS springs. I have had them on for a year and the ride is the same as the day they were installed. The best part is that the Mach I shocks and struts can be bought as a set for about $200. You can't touch regular Tokicos or Bilstiens for that. And IMHO, stay away from KYBs.

As far as alignment, you should have it done anytime you lower a car. CC plates however, will probably not be needed for the Eibach ProKit, Steeda Sports, or the FRPP C-springs. The H&R SS springs like mine though will need them. The plate allow more adjustability in the suspension the get the caster and camber set up so that your tires wear correctly and that the car tracks straight.

Lowering a Mustang on 18's is no different than lowering it on 15s, 16s, or 17s as long as you aren't using some wierd tire size. You should keep the tires the same overall diameter. For example, the stock 245/45R17s are the same height as my 285/35R18s and 245/40R18s. That way, the speedometer is correct. If you want to use the same size all the way around on the Cobra Rs I would use either 265/35R18 or 275/35R18s. Both would be very close to the stock tire hieght.

 

[01GT eibach]

Agreed with all of the above.

Regarding spring types, the big four are Eibach, Steeda, FRPP, and H&R. Each has different lines, so you will need to do some research here. There are other brands, too.

When you do springs, it is good idea to also change your isolators out. Also, you will need a lower pinion snubber (this comes with many of the spring kits) and some offset steering rack bushings which adjust the steering rack to the new ride height. All of these are inexpensive and easy to install.

If you are going to do lower control arms or shocks/ struts, it is advisable to install them at the same time to save labor.

 

[Black2001GT]

I am going with the Mach 1 Suspension kit from GEFRACING for $300.

 

[RIP 112]

How much lower is the Mach 1 suspension than the GT Suspension?

 

[Cali03Boss]

not to drag this thread any further...but MAXIMUM MOTORSPORTS!!!!

 

[GoBabyVroommm]

Went with the Eibach sport line and i'm not happy with them but that is my fault. The springs are great when it comes to corning but drag racing that suck big time. I have practiced and practiced and i can't get the launch right.

When i had the stock suspension on my car with the cobra motor i hooked really good because the whole front end would lift.< Not popping wheely> IMO if your going to drop your car save the extra money and get coil overs, that is what i'm doing now.