can u really delete ac without a kit???

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shadow9055

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Mar 20, 2011

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Mar 27, 2011

#1

• Mar 27, 2011

• #1

i saw in old posts a routing with no ac delete kit or moving the power steering pump up. also, i found one where parrish50 says he did this and with aftermarket pulleys it doesn't work, but with the stock pulleys it does. can anyone tell me if this is ok or not, or if it works.. i would love to do that instead of moving things up, i love how clean it would look with nothing there..

 

darthcual

Member

Mar 31, 2005

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Arlington, TX

Mar 27, 2011

#2

• Mar 27, 2011

• #2

shadow9055 said:

i saw in old posts a routing with no ac delete kit or moving the power steering pump up. also, i found one where parrish50 says he did this and with aftermarket pulleys it doesn't work, but with the stock pulleys it does. can anyone tell me if this is ok or not, or if it works.. i would love to do that instead of moving things up, i love how clean it would look with nothing there..

Click to expand...

I did it with my 93 coupe with underdrive pulleys. I was running a shorter belt bypassing the smog. Then I removed the a/c compressor completely. Just had to run an even shorter belt. No, I dont remember the size. It was a trial and error of a couple of runs to the parts store. You can start by taking a piece of rope and run it around (with proper routing as it will be different) and cutting it to the guesstimate length. Alot of ppl say you need a reverse water pump for it to work but I did it without one and never had an over heating problem. Even in the multiple 100 degree days we have here in North Texas. Hope this helps.

Z

 

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shadow9055

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Mar 20, 2011

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Mar 28, 2011

#3

• Mar 28, 2011

• #3

thank u so much man. i wasn't sure if it would work. it looks like the belts would rub. thats two guys on here that say it works so. im going for it. again thanks. i don't get why u would need a reverse water pump. but i read a few posts here and there about that.

 

wewfords

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Feb 2, 2011

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niles mi

Mar 28, 2011

#4

• Mar 28, 2011

• #4

i did it with moveing the p/s on to the a/c braket if i remember right and drilled a hole in tenseior bracket to reindex the tenseior and bypass the air pump

 

darthcual

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Mar 31, 2005

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Arlington, TX

Mar 28, 2011

#5

• Mar 28, 2011

• #5

shadow9055 said:

thank u so much man. i wasn't sure if it would work. it looks like the belts would rub. thats two guys on here that say it works so. im going for it. again thanks. i don't get why u would need a reverse water pump. but i read a few posts here and there about that.

Click to expand...

I think the reverse water pump is under the assumption that it will be turning the wrong way which isnt the case. If I remember right the belt was really close but I could still get an index finger in there. Good Luck.

Z

 

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shadow9055

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Mar 20, 2011

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Mar 29, 2011

#6

• Mar 29, 2011

• #6

ya, i went out and looked at it today after reading ur post. it looks like it will be fine. when u look at those diagrams it looks impossible when u look at the actual fn car. its looks perfect. i knew reading was a waste of time..... thanks again man. im gonna try it sunday.

 

darthcual

Member

Mar 31, 2005

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Arlington, TX

Mar 30, 2011

#7

• Mar 30, 2011

• #7

http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2000/02/quicktips/beltrouting.jpg

You might find this link helpful. These are belt lengths with underdrive pulleys. Although this shows the power steering being bypassed along with the smog, it gives you an idea of where to start on the belt length. Remember, their is little to no parasitic drag from the a/c compressor when its turned off, so you will only be saving weight.

 

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shadow9055

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Mar 20, 2011

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Apr 16, 2011

#8

• Apr 16, 2011

• #8

just wanted to say i got it done yesterday, and was ready to lose my mind. i had one belt that fit on easily and one that just wouldn't go on. but man it was close. so with the easy belt the tensioner went all the way down. therefore just barely rubbing the lower belt.. ............. so after walking away and thinking i took the whole tensioner off and just barely was able to put the half inch smaller belt on. put the tensioner back on and i have a half inch of clearance. no more sqeaking when i start it and she feels a little quicker too. so, now im wondering if i should put underdrive pulleys on too... man does it look so much better under the hood now.

 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

Mod Dude

Feb 18, 2001

43,366

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Apr 17, 2011

#9

• Apr 17, 2011

• #9

Be aware that the belt will stretch over time, so even if there is clearance now, in a few thousand miles the belt could start rubbing.

It's why many guys opt to buy the $40 ford racing a/c delete kit instead. Hard to do it without the kit and stop the belt from rubbing

 

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lx5.0maine

Banned

Nov 18, 2010

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Apr 17, 2011

#10

• Apr 17, 2011

• #10

I also took my ac an smog off a cpl off days ago, i didnt buy anything but a new belt, its a 73inch belt works perfect, just undo the alt an u can you that as levrage to tighen the belt, i pulled the alt over an put the bolt in on the other side of where it mounts its temp till i can make a braket that will bolt to the alt an the stock mount, but works great no slipping an works great, ill try an get a pic its hard to explain what i did, pm me if you need help with it

 

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lx5.0maine

Banned

Nov 18, 2010

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Apr 17, 2011

#11

• Apr 17, 2011

• #11

SO SONT GO AN BUY ANYTHING YOU DONT NEED IT, ITS NOT EVEN CLOSE TO RUBBING ON THE STOCK TENSIONER, AN RUNS PERFECT

 

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shadow9055

New Member

Mar 20, 2011

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Apr 17, 2011

#12

• Apr 17, 2011

• #12

hell ya man, and it looks great. so clean under the hood. plus so much easier to work in there.