IIRC, 3/8"s won't do it; you need around an inch of travel. Keep going until you get it. The rod should be adjusted so that the fork just slightly preloads the throwout bearing-to-clutch fingers.
IIRC, 3/8"s won't do it; you need around an inch of travel. Keep going until you get it. The rod should be adjusted so that the fork just slightly preloads the throwout bearing-to-clutch fingers.
I have the rod adjusted properly right now, so sounds like I just need to bleed some more. Pump, pump, pump, pump, bleed, bleed, bleed, bleed... I'm sure it's great when finished and working right, but the directions that come with the kit suck. Good thing there is :SNSign:
Rather than post a new thread, I figured I would continue to build on this one to help create the "end all, be all JMC Clutch Thread" for future JMC headbangers!
I successfully bled the clutch last night by being patient and following exact steps outline by posts on this thread. A mistake I believe I had been making was not letting the fluid run completely when opening up the bleeder. Last night, I let it keep running until it stopped, then closed the bleeder and had my helper pump again. After 5 or 6 refills of the resevior, I think I got it completely bled. Pedal feels firm, starts to engage about 1/4th of the way down and the fork travels about an inch or slightly more (didn't measure it).
So now my next question/problem: The rear is up on jack stands so to adjust the clutch preload, I used the following method. I first adjusted preload to just have tentsion on the pressure plate fingers. I started the car, put it in first gear, tires were spinning, I pushed clutch pedal fully and slowly applied the brakes. Problem is, this caused the car to stall, so the clutch is obviously not disengaging fully. I continued to adjust the preload several times until I could apply the brake and stop the wheel without stalling. I'm concerned that I have overadjusted and put too much preload and don't want to burn my clutch out. I have the JMC, not a home made unit (not that there is anything wrong with that approach) and the preload is currently adjusted almost all the way to the end of the adjustment. Questions? How much travel should I have with the fork when the clutch is fully bled? How much adjustment do you have left in your setup? Is yours near the end like mine? Is the way that I am testing appropriate or is there a better way? I have the car going to the exhaust shop on Thursday, so I would like to get this working before then. Thanks for the replies and sorry for the long thread :SNSign: