---First remove the switches. Look on the side that the paddles are on and you will see two notches, where the locking tabs are. Gently push them in while pivoting the paddle side outward. Once the paddle side pivots outward, relieving the locking tabs, pull the entire switch straight out. Then you can disconnect the switches. Next...
---The two gauge cluster harness connectors. The harness connectors are rectangular shaped with a plastic spring-retaining locking tab on each side. Thumb on one tab, finger on the other and squeeze/pinch the tabs inward. connectors look similar to this, with the [| and |] being the two tabs (sorry... lost access to my start menu and can't access graphics programs).
[|________
[|
:::::::::::|]
---The speedo cable needs to be pulled off. Push the entire connector at the end of the cable toward the cluster to relieve the locking mechanism. The connector is a quick-disconnect of sorts and you should notice that the connector is shaped similar to this (again, sorry about lack of graphic-ability).
[(O)
---The square portion of the connector IIRC is the locking mechanism, it doesn't take much pressure to release it, maybe 1lb if that, so if it is extremely hard, push the connector back toward the cluster again and squeeze, then pull.
---There are only four screws holding the shroud/cover on and two small nubs at the top by the windshield, that drop into holes in the dash and keep the cover snugly aligned and stable while you fasten it down. If you have the four screws out, that should be all that is holding you back. There are two plastic plastic nubs on the underside of the cover that drop into two holes in the dash, so after you remove the screws, you lift the cover straight up and pull it forward. I always undo the switches first, if the cluster is coming out.
---Slight, very slight prying of the cover will be necessary to get it past the multifunction switch lever, once you get it free. This is so slight, I wouldn't even say it was 1/8" you have to spread the cover to get over it... just consider temperature and how plastic gets brittle in the cold.
---Get yourself two 1/2"
minibulb sockets (<--- clicky-clicky) and two 194 bulbs so you can put in the "Low Oil Level" light and "Check Engine Light". Check Engine is nice when pulling codes. "Low Oil" is nice to have once you install the switch/sensor.
---Also, while you have the cover off, when you look at the back side you can see small rectangular tabs that may or may not have a rubber sleeve around them. This is the vibration dampener or... anti-rattle idea they had when designing. Either cut some thin-walled 7/16" or 1/2" vacuum line to fit, heat shrink tubing with an adhesive wall, or even some adhesive-backed weatherstripping foam. Tackle the rattles while you're in there.
---LOL, one last one... if you have fog lights and use the fog light switch, you have more room to work on the wiring while the cover is off. Set up your wiring for the 30A/40A 12v ISO relay now and put it back together. Again, tackling a job while your in there.
---HTH.
