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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • 2.3L (N/A & Turbo) Tech

Cant get dash gauge cliuster unit off right side to get to gauges

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anlushac11
  • Start date Start date Aug 12, 2008

Anlushac11

Founding Member
Feb 17, 2001
2,270
0
0
Indianapolis, Indiana
Aug 12, 2008
#1
  • Aug 12, 2008
  • #1
Hey!

I bought a white face gauge kit for my 91 Mustang and have pulled the collar off the steering column and have pulled screws on the top and bottom of the gauge cluster piece that has the two switches on each side.

The gauge cluster cover is loose and I can pull it away on the left side but something is preventing the unit from pulling loose on the right.

It acts like it has a screw or soemthing holding it but I cant find anything.

Any help is appreciated. Thanks.

Posted via Mobile Device
 

Dr_EluSivE

Founding Member
Apr 24, 2002
2,155
0
56
Central Illinois
Aug 13, 2008
#2
  • Aug 13, 2008
  • #2
did you remove the panel under the steering column? I seem to remember there being a metal strut that stretches down and screws into the bottom of the dash. Once you get all the screws, it lifts right off.

Dr.
 

2BADSTANGS

Member
Jun 19, 2008
385
1
18
Colorado
Aug 14, 2008
#3
  • Aug 14, 2008
  • #3
+1 There is a metal bracket with a screw down there.
 
A

AKA3Toes

New Member
Dec 9, 2009
39
0
0
The land AKA Alabama. Always humid, whether hot or
Dec 9, 2009
#4
  • Dec 9, 2009
  • #4
---First remove the switches. Look on the side that the paddles are on and you will see two notches, where the locking tabs are. Gently push them in while pivoting the paddle side outward. Once the paddle side pivots outward, relieving the locking tabs, pull the entire switch straight out. Then you can disconnect the switches. Next...

---The two gauge cluster harness connectors. The harness connectors are rectangular shaped with a plastic spring-retaining locking tab on each side. Thumb on one tab, finger on the other and squeeze/pinch the tabs inward. connectors look similar to this, with the [| and |] being the two tabs (sorry... lost access to my start menu and can't access graphics programs).
[|________
[|:::::::::::|]

---The speedo cable needs to be pulled off. Push the entire connector at the end of the cable toward the cluster to relieve the locking mechanism. The connector is a quick-disconnect of sorts and you should notice that the connector is shaped similar to this (again, sorry about lack of graphic-ability).

[(O)

---The square portion of the connector IIRC is the locking mechanism, it doesn't take much pressure to release it, maybe 1lb if that, so if it is extremely hard, push the connector back toward the cluster again and squeeze, then pull.

---There are only four screws holding the shroud/cover on and two small nubs at the top by the windshield, that drop into holes in the dash and keep the cover snugly aligned and stable while you fasten it down. If you have the four screws out, that should be all that is holding you back. There are two plastic plastic nubs on the underside of the cover that drop into two holes in the dash, so after you remove the screws, you lift the cover straight up and pull it forward. I always undo the switches first, if the cluster is coming out.

---Slight, very slight prying of the cover will be necessary to get it past the multifunction switch lever, once you get it free. This is so slight, I wouldn't even say it was 1/8" you have to spread the cover to get over it... just consider temperature and how plastic gets brittle in the cold.

---Get yourself two 1/2" minibulb sockets (<--- clicky-clicky) and two 194 bulbs so you can put in the "Low Oil Level" light and "Check Engine Light". Check Engine is nice when pulling codes. "Low Oil" is nice to have once you install the switch/sensor.

---Also, while you have the cover off, when you look at the back side you can see small rectangular tabs that may or may not have a rubber sleeve around them. This is the vibration dampener or... anti-rattle idea they had when designing. Either cut some thin-walled 7/16" or 1/2" vacuum line to fit, heat shrink tubing with an adhesive wall, or even some adhesive-backed weatherstripping foam. Tackle the rattles while you're in there.

---LOL, one last one... if you have fog lights and use the fog light switch, you have more room to work on the wiring while the cover is off. Set up your wiring for the 30A/40A 12v ISO relay now and put it back together. Again, tackling a job while your in there.

---HTH.
 

Red_LX

I’m not much help unless you’re looking for ****!
Founding Member
Nov 29, 1999
5,896
73
129
Morgantown, WV...where couches meet their doom
Dec 10, 2009
#5
  • Dec 10, 2009
  • #5
Damn, here for a minute I thought Anlushac11 was back.

Then I saw that this post was over a year old.
 
A

AKA3Toes

New Member
Dec 9, 2009
39
0
0
The land AKA Alabama. Always humid, whether hot or
Dec 10, 2009
#6
  • Dec 10, 2009
  • #6
---Well, since it's a tech board, don't think it hurts to add info for others who are searching. When and if he comes back, ask him why he didn't respond with a thanks, if not take the time to post his findings. Think it's time to :stirpot: `round here myself. Place looks dead.

---I figured I would add the correct answer before posting my "Q"s. Wouldn't want people to be pulling parts they didn't need to, but forgot to point out that* is the usual place for people to install an anti-theft switch. FYI.

---Me, I'm new, but not that new. I have the usual problem FWICT; Fox Body w/no dash lights unless dimmer is switched to dome. We'll get into that later though, after I search and post. Busy at the moment but yeah.

---How do, from Yank's Alabama home
 
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