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  • 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-
  • SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech

cant get rear brake piston to back in!! help

  • Thread starter Thread starter 2NDTIME
  • Start date Start date Jan 16, 2006
2

2NDTIME

Founding Member
Nov 5, 2002
334
0
0
Kansas City
Jan 16, 2006
#1
  • Jan 16, 2006
  • #1
I have put about 30 turns on the piston and its not retracting. Clockwise right?

97 GT by the way
 
R

Red2000GT

Founding Member
Sep 10, 2000
2,450
0
46
Regina,Sask.Canada
Jan 16, 2006
#2
  • Jan 16, 2006
  • #2
It's not the turning that forces it back,you'll have to use a C-clamp or good old fashioned muscle.
 

bryan0

New Member
Jun 9, 2005
175
0
0
Bethel, CT
Jan 16, 2006
#3
  • Jan 16, 2006
  • #3
Mine were so bad, I just got new reman'd ones from autozone, the core is like 40 bucks each
So you really only pay about 100 for both. good luck with it either way though.
 
2

2NDTIME

Founding Member
Nov 5, 2002
334
0
0
Kansas City
Jan 16, 2006
#4
  • Jan 16, 2006
  • #4
How do you turn it with the tool and have a c clamp on it at the same time? Or do I turn it a bit and then squeeze it? Have done about 5 sets before that just screwed in with no pressure.
 

COramprat

...I can take it. I think.
20+ Year Stangneter
Mar 2, 2003
8,474
1,463
223
Sea of Tranquility
Jan 16, 2006
#5
  • Jan 16, 2006
  • #5
I put pressure on it then turn...pressure/turn/pressure/turn. One of them kind of flet like it was seized but it eventually retracted.
 
M

mijo_latino

Active Member
Apr 16, 2004
179
1
29
Canton, Michigan
Jan 16, 2006
#6
  • Jan 16, 2006
  • #6
I've had the same problem. What worked for me is to put the old brakes back on bolt everything together and press the brake pedal. This will push the piston into place and then it should "catch." Then start over and it should go in by turning.

something with seizing like coaramprat said. Since you have turned it, it should have unseized and it just needs a slight push to work again.

Not sure if this is how the brake works or not but thats how i fixed it. I also turned the thing for 15 min with no luck.
 
D

Dragstr05

New Member
Dec 21, 2004
643
1
0
Stafford VA
Jan 16, 2006
#7
  • Jan 16, 2006
  • #7
The tool I have used applies pressure while your turning it
 

BennyBlown2v

New Member
Dec 9, 2004
1,233
1
0
Carmel, INdiana
Jan 16, 2006
#8
  • Jan 16, 2006
  • #8
Go to an auto parts store and rent the correct tool. Also...you do have the bleeder open, right?
 
R

Roger_4.6_96

Founding Member
Jul 16, 2002
1,209
0
0
Reno,NV
Jan 17, 2006
#9
  • Jan 17, 2006
  • #9
Ya go get the tool.
 

Serper3

New Member
Nov 1, 2005
120
0
0
Sunnyvale, Ca Bay Area close to san francisco
Jan 17, 2006
#10
  • Jan 17, 2006
  • #10
i just use a large channal lock. no turning... just apply alot of pressure and it slooooowwwly goes in.
 
J

JohnyD05

Founding Member
Mar 17, 2002
417
0
0
Massachusetts
Jan 17, 2006
#11
  • Jan 17, 2006
  • #11
do you have the bleeder open, i think you need it to let the fluid go somewhere?
 

MT1083

New Member
Sep 16, 2003
1,033
0
0
Charlotte, NC
Jan 17, 2006
#12
  • Jan 17, 2006
  • #12
I just opened the cap to the mc and then used a disc brake piston tool from napa. Attach the tool to a 3/8 socket wrench and apply pressure while turning the piston. Mine took like 40-50 revolutions before it finally gave me enough space to put the caliper back on.
 
2

2NDTIME

Founding Member
Nov 5, 2002
334
0
0
Kansas City
Jan 17, 2006
#13
  • Jan 17, 2006
  • #13
Finally got one side back in. I think my problem is the last thing I did b4 I started was use the E brake so I could pop the lug nuts loose. I think that was a bad idea cause I think the wheel needs to turn a bit to fully release the parking brake. So putting this side back together and putting it in drive to get a few r's out of the wheel and then I will tear it back down and try again.

BTW. After the other one finally caught It only took about 5 turns to get it fully retracted.
 
J

jackson00danny

New Member
Jan 17, 2006
6
0
0
Jan 17, 2006
#14
  • Jan 17, 2006
  • #14
35 for a disc brake caliper loaner tool at autozone! i work there, ase certified, you'll have no problems. if you decide to replace them look into semi-loaded calipers, they'd be the same price as replacing new ones and they'll even refund the pads you bought from them to upgrade! THE CORE is just what you pay if you don't bring in the old part, so make sure you bring in the old part and you wont have to pay a core charge! Good-Luck
 
J

jackson00danny

New Member
Jan 17, 2006
6
0
0
Jan 17, 2006
#15
  • Jan 17, 2006
  • #15
by the way the e-brake uses the driver side rear wheel on mustangs, also make sure to use disc-caliper slide grease to ensure maximum braking performance! ( the slides are the bolts to the calipers, they slide all the way out adn need to be greased).
 

BennyBlown2v

New Member
Dec 9, 2004
1,233
1
0
Carmel, INdiana
Jan 17, 2006
#16
  • Jan 17, 2006
  • #16
jackson00danny said:
by the way the e-brake uses the driver side rear wheel on mustangs.
Click to expand...

E-brake is both driver/passenger in the rear...that's why theres two cables (one on each side); the junction where the cables hook to the single cable from the lever is above the middle of the driveshaft.
 
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