Car Constantly Stalling!

[AmBo]

Not cool! Just recently I've been driving around the car will stall normally taking turns or decelerating. It's almost like if I tap the gas real quick, there is a second delay in response. Could this be the T/B sticking and possibly closing too much? I want to blame the alternator but it could be a variety of things, right?

I know it's not the IAC as it's new and only has like 6-8k miles on it.

The battery is also a year old. So that SHOULDN'T be the issue.

Recently, I've been hearing this "beep" in my car. Nothing on the dash, but I swear I hear I beep every now and then!

I'm thinking of bringing it into a Ford dealer and just saying "tune this PLEASE!"

 

[DropTopPony]

Sounds like IAC symptoms to me...i know its new but stranger things have happened.

 

[AmBo]

O cmon. That's GARBAGE if it turns out being that. It only happens on deceleration and when coming to a stop. The car lags and when if I tap the gas when it's "dying" it lags on the engive rev. It's very scary...

I don't have the car today or tomorrow as the new cloth top is being installed. No blower. :-( $1,200 to the new top.

 

[DropTopPony]

Try cleaning it....
take it off and tap it, spray with carb cleaner.

 

[DTNODYA]

Try cleaning it....
take it off and tap it, spray with carb cleaner.

Also inspect/clean your MAF, check for vaccum leaks, inspect your TB because it might be dirty, and maybe fuel filter (bad gas or somethin'??). Your PCV valve should be fine (since your car is not old) but I'd take it out and shake it .. if it rattles, it's prolly good to go. That's all I can think of.

Sounds like an IAC though.

 

[AmBo]

So it wouldn't be the alternator right? Car seems to only have this issue when it's warming up. After it gets warmed up she's good to go.

I would love to just start replacing things, but with the new top now and trying to consistently stash away $, it's difficult to justify $400 for a new t/b & plenum and $230 for new C&L mass air system.

Money stresses me out. LOL!

 

[DTNODYA]

So it wouldn't be the alternator right? Car seems to only have this issue when it's warming up. After it gets warmed up she's good to go.

I would love to just start replacing things, but with the new top now and trying to consistently stash away $, it's difficult to justify $400 for a new t/b & plenum and $230 for new C&L mass air system.

Money stresses me out. LOL!

Well on a side note, I wouldn't buy a mass air until you have stupid horsepower. You can find a TB and Plentum for cheaper than that as well if you look around ... I guess it could be your alternator or battery (they can cause each other to go bad if one or the other is bad) .. you could go to any auto-store and have them test your alt. and batt.

If you are cranking your car with your A/C on, that is (A.) not so good for your engine and (B.) could cause symptoms as you have described. Turning off your A/C before you shut the car off is beneficial for two reasons .. 1. It gets all the condensation out of the system so mold won't grow, eventually causing the infamous A/C funk and 2. When you start your car, it will not be under that extra load caused by the A/C pulley. That is probably more informative than helpful to your situation but I thought I'd throw it out there.

 

[DropTopPony]

So it wouldn't be the alternator right? Car seems to only have this issue when it's warming up. After it gets warmed up she's good to go.

I would love to just start replacing things, but with the new top now and trying to consistently stash away $, it's difficult to justify $400 for a new t/b & plenum and $230 for new C&L mass air system.

Money stresses me out. LOL!

Do not buy the C&L Mass air system! I sold my entire C&L setup for half of what i paid for it...Get a 90mm LMAF or SCT 2400...c&l maf is a waste on our cars...plus you don't need a maf until after your blown so the stock will be just fine for now.
Post pics of your top when its done..where did you get it installed?

 

[Mike97gt]

try tapping the iac with a hammer and see if that helps.. I have also seen those symptoms be caused by a bad fuel pump.

 

[hognutz]

sounds to me like you just need to start testing somethings.

if it were voltage related pretty easy to figure out. battery can be load tested by a shop. we have place called the battery exhange around here and they will load test for free. I am sure you can find a place that sell batteries to do this. alt can be tested by a parts store in 5min. you would have to pull it but that does not take that long. I don't know how hard it is to install a fuel pressure gauge in the fuel rail on these cars but it is good trouble shooting tool that I usually do to most my cars as they get up in years and start having issues.

where did you buy the IAC? I only ask because I bough my accufab plenum and BBK tb off ebay. It came with both a new IAC and egr valve. I just puled my stock stuff and put the new one on. the car would die constantly. took the "new" aftermarket iac replace with my stock for IAC with 30k or so on it and the car ran fine.

I have never had a maf cause a car to completely die. Have had them make the cars hesitate or run rich but never die. this is my first ford though.

 

[urban96]

how old is the fuel filter?

 

[AmBo]

Do not buy the C&L Mass air system! I sold my entire C&L setup for half of what i paid for it...Get a 90mm LMAF or SCT 2400...c&l maf is a waste on our cars...plus you don't need a maf until after your blown so the stock will be just fine for now.
Post pics of your top when its done..where did you get it installed?

Thanks for the advice.

Pics will be posted today when I pick the car up. Probably around 7ish? I got it done at a local place called "Atlas". Friend of mine got her Cabrio top clothed and it looked great. I hope mine turns out the same.

 

[AmBo]

The IAC is a motorcraft as well. I only buy ford parts for stuff like that.

Fuel filter needs to be changed BADLY. I have a motorcraft at home waiting to go in. It goes in tomorrow morning.

Do you think the old fuel filter could just be clogging the fuel flow?

 

[hognutz]

The IAC is a motorcraft as well. I only buy ford parts for stuff like that.

Fuel filter needs to be changed BADLY. I have a motorcraft at home waiting to go in. It goes in tomorrow morning.

Do you think the old fuel filter could just be clogging the fuel flow?

seems like if that were the case you would notice it under load as well but I might change it as it is cheap and it eliminates a varible. if it was restricted enough to give you a pressure loss who know it could be possible I guess.

I can say that fuel pumps can cause wierd issues though. I had an 89 chev 4x4 that was running very wierd off idle but would pull fine at full throttle and it turned out to be a fuel pump issue. which by my logic did not make a ton of sense. that is where the fuel pressure gauge is a godsend. without that I am not sure I would have ever figured that out. just seemed like a bad fuel pump would have been worse under load but the more throttle I gave it the better it ran. I still to this day don't quite understand why it ran better at full throttle. I just know the fuel pressure was not keeping up changed the pump and truck ran like a dream.

 

[XtorT'r]

I didn't catch weather you have an aftermarket TB, try adjusting your Idle screw up a little and see if that helps. I just waised like 90 bucks on parts trying to figure out why my idle was hopping all over the place, it's a cheap fix if thats what is causing it. Where are you idling at? What type of plugs do you use and when did you last replace them? O2 sensors, if you replace them try Bosch as Fords are double the price.? Clean your Maf yet?