I have a 93 gt that is almost completely stock. Only differences are a 255 lph holley fuel pump, bbk cold air intake, bbk offroad x-pipe, flowmasters, 180 degree thermostat. For some time now the car doesn't run well at WOT which is especially noticable at high rpm's (above 3500). There is a considerable and sudden power increase when the throttle is backed off of some. Just the other day it quit running after ideling for about 15 min while i picked up my tools and it was not getting fuel, fuel pump would only run momentarely to give enough fuel to crank then wouldn't stay running. Thought maybe my problem had been due to a cheap fuel pump that I had bought and that it had given out. Tonight I put the holley pump on and it ideled for about 15 min then died. When going down the road it still did the same thing at WOT as before but the 255 should have been putting out plenty of fuel so I don't know why this is happening? Got it running again but was rough at first and backfired a few times. Then when driving home it quit while cruising at about 50 in 4th gear. I never pushed in the clutch. It backfired then started pulling again. When the engine cut out the tack when to zero but all other electrical stayed on??? I don't get why the tack went to zero if the engine was still spinning? I am very confused.
Car cut out while going down road
- Thread starter ki11er13
- Start date
cjones
Founding Member
the tach went to 0 because the ignition stopped firing.
how long does it cool down before it will run again?? i would check the ignition module. they are very heat sensitive and will cutout when going bad.
how long does it cool down before it will run again?? i would check the ignition module. they are very heat sensitive and will cutout when going bad.
BK_CAULEY
it's built for speed not longevity, woman
the fuel pump isnt going to constantly run. its going to come on long enought o build pressure in the system then once the car is running it will kick on and maintain pressure. and as to why its cuting off i will have to think on that one.
cjones
Founding Member
the fuel pump also needs a signal from the ignition to run. if i recall, the signal goes to the PCM and that turns on the fuel pump (when the car is running).
I would agree with looking into the ignition module. A new TFI (Thick Film Integrated) ignition module from the local autoparts store doesnt cost too much if I recall. I replaced mine and had a noticable better idle. Hopefully this can help ya out...
Description and Operation
Notes
PURPOSE
The Thick Film Integrated (TFI) ignition module supplies spark to the distributor through the ignition coil and calculates the duration. It receives its control signal from the Electronic Control Assembly (ECA) Spark Output (SPOUT) .
CONSTRUCTION
The ignition control module is a thick film integrated design. The module contains a ceramic substrate thick film assembly and three output drivers mounted on a metal base plate and potted in a plastic housing.
OPERATION
The ignition module has six connector pins at the wiring harness that supplies the following signals:
* Run
* Crank (start)
* Tach (coil)
* PIP (crankshaft position to ECA)
* Spark output (SPOUT from ECA)
* Internal ground from the ECA to the distributor
OPERATION
The TFI module receives the PIP signal from the crankshaft sensor, the CID signal from the camshaft sensor, and Spark Output (SPOUT) signal from the ECA. During normal operation, PIP is sent to the ECA from the crankshaft timing sensor and provides base timing and RPM information. The CID signal provides the ignition control module with the information required to synchronize the ignition coils so that they are fired in proper sequence. The SPOUT signal contains optimum spark timing and dwell time information. Spark angle is determined by the rising edge of SPOUT, while the falling edge of SPOUT controls the coil current "ON" or "DWELL" time. The dwell time is controlled or varied by varying the duty cycle of the SPOUT signal. This feature is called Computer Controlled Dwell (CCD) .
© 2007 ALLDATA LLC. All rights reserved.
REMOVAL
1. Remove distributor cap and position it and attached wires aside so as not to interfere with work area.
2. Remove Ignition Control Module (ICM) harness connector.
3. Remove ICM attachment screws.
4. Pull RH side of module down distributor mounting flange and back up to disengage module terminals from connector in distributor base. The module may be pulled toward flange and away from distributor.
INSTALLATION
1. Apply a 1/32 inch coating of silicone grease to metal base of module. Position module on distributor mounting flange.
2. Carefully position module toward distributor bowl and securely engage the 3 module connector pins.
3. Install 2 module attaching screws.
o Tighten to 15-35 lb. in. (1.7-4.0 Nm) .
4. Install distributor cap.
5. Check ignition timing. Adjust if necessary.
© 2007 ALLDATA LLC. All rights reserved.
Description and Operation
Notes
PURPOSE
The Thick Film Integrated (TFI) ignition module supplies spark to the distributor through the ignition coil and calculates the duration. It receives its control signal from the Electronic Control Assembly (ECA) Spark Output (SPOUT) .
CONSTRUCTION
The ignition control module is a thick film integrated design. The module contains a ceramic substrate thick film assembly and three output drivers mounted on a metal base plate and potted in a plastic housing.
OPERATION
The ignition module has six connector pins at the wiring harness that supplies the following signals:
* Run
* Crank (start)
* Tach (coil)
* PIP (crankshaft position to ECA)
* Spark output (SPOUT from ECA)
* Internal ground from the ECA to the distributor
OPERATION
The TFI module receives the PIP signal from the crankshaft sensor, the CID signal from the camshaft sensor, and Spark Output (SPOUT) signal from the ECA. During normal operation, PIP is sent to the ECA from the crankshaft timing sensor and provides base timing and RPM information. The CID signal provides the ignition control module with the information required to synchronize the ignition coils so that they are fired in proper sequence. The SPOUT signal contains optimum spark timing and dwell time information. Spark angle is determined by the rising edge of SPOUT, while the falling edge of SPOUT controls the coil current "ON" or "DWELL" time. The dwell time is controlled or varied by varying the duty cycle of the SPOUT signal. This feature is called Computer Controlled Dwell (CCD) .
© 2007 ALLDATA LLC. All rights reserved.
REMOVAL
1. Remove distributor cap and position it and attached wires aside so as not to interfere with work area.
2. Remove Ignition Control Module (ICM) harness connector.
3. Remove ICM attachment screws.
4. Pull RH side of module down distributor mounting flange and back up to disengage module terminals from connector in distributor base. The module may be pulled toward flange and away from distributor.
INSTALLATION
1. Apply a 1/32 inch coating of silicone grease to metal base of module. Position module on distributor mounting flange.
2. Carefully position module toward distributor bowl and securely engage the 3 module connector pins.
3. Install 2 module attaching screws.
o Tighten to 15-35 lb. in. (1.7-4.0 Nm) .
4. Install distributor cap.
5. Check ignition timing. Adjust if necessary.
© 2007 ALLDATA LLC. All rights reserved.
Attachments
well thanks to all for the replys. i guess i will not have time to get to it tonight but hopefully some time this weekend. the guy down at auto zone said he could check the TFI modual..... i hope he is correct? i went to take it off but it looks like i will have to rotate the distributor and have a deep well 5mm socket or something close. is somebody could correct me on that if i'm wrong it would be great. went to take it off and my shallow sockets wouldn't fit down in far enough and the bolt on the lower left cornor looked like a socket would not fit even if i had the right socket without rotating the distributor.
cjones
Founding Member
the one i used is, i believe, a 7/32 socket with the outside tip ground down to fit. it's been a long time since i changed one so i may be mistaken.
edit - autozone may have the socket, they rent tools for free
edit - autozone may have the socket, they rent tools for free
mittjere85
New Member
so today i double checked and the fuel is not an issue but i am not getting fire. checked spark coming directly from the coil and at a wire coming from the distributor to the spark plugs. changed the TFI module, which checked bad at autozone, and the coil, which also checked bad at autozone, and the car is still not running. well it will run for 10-15 seconds if it has had a day to sit before it starts running really bad then eventually won't even start. i am planning on changing the pickup coil next but was unable to get the bottom gear off the distributor to change it tonight.
cjones
Founding Member
a friend of mine works at a ford nissian dealership and he talked to some of the ford guys and showed them the distributor and they said it should be fine so tonight i installed the distributor with a new pick up coil and still the same problem, the car starts and runs fine for a few minutes (only if it has been sitting for a day) then starts acting up and there is no spark. someone suggested possibly the crank position sensor but i'm getting kinda sick of just changing parts. what is a PIP sensor?
cjones
Founding Member
PIP is Profile Ignition Pickup and is created by a tab on the Rotary Vain Cup passing through the Hall Effect Switch.
well to make this complete incase someone else reads this i have my car running again now. the car would run when the spout connector was removed but would only run for about 30 seconds if it had set over night with the spout connector in. i was fortunate to have a friend with a car very similar to mine who let me try his computer in my car and it worked. if i had not known someone with a computer i would have first ohmed out necessary wires but since i had a computer to borrow it was easy to plug in and find out that it was my problem. thanks to all!
