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Car dies when shifted into reverse after cranking when motor is at operating temp

  • Thread starter Thread starter y22kc
  • Start date Start date Jul 14, 2008
Y

y22kc

New Member
May 9, 2005
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Jul 14, 2008
#1
  • Jul 14, 2008
  • #1
I need a little help on my 1995 Mustang GT, but first a little background on the car. It's a one owner, and the people that had it were an elderly couple that had kept the car bone stock and very well taken care of. Maintenance was done on the car at decent intervals as it still ran very good. It had 119k miles on it, and I've put about 1500 on it since I got it in October. Have done a complete tuneup (cap, rotor, plugs, wires, fuel filter, air filter, transmission fluid, rear end fluid) and it runs like a top.

One problem I cannot fix is when the car has been driven up to normal operating temps, and I kill it to run into someplace quickly, it will stall really bad or die when i crank it up and put into reverse. If I put it into drive, it may stall slightly, but never die. When it's cold, it doesn't do it at all. I have replaced the IAC sensor and the TPS sensor as well as tweaked it with the voltmeter so it is within specs. Could it be the ignition control module getting heat soaked? Or perhaps something else? Any input would be much appreciated!
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
31,179
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Jul 14, 2008
#2
  • Jul 14, 2008
  • #2
It sounds like it's an idle or idle-set issue. In D or R while at operating temps, the idle is as low as it will ever go.

If you have a handheld diagnostic tach (or can see Pids), you shouldnt see the idle drop below ~650 RPM.

I'd consider raising the idle a hair, ensure you have no vac leaks and see how it does.

MHO.
Good luck.
 

Yellow302

Member
Mar 2, 2003
789
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NJ
Jul 14, 2008
#3
  • Jul 14, 2008
  • #3
HISSIN50 said:
It sounds like it's an idle or idle-set issue. In D or R while at operating temps, the idle is as low as it will ever go.

If you have a handheld diagnostic tach (or can see Pids), you shouldnt see the idle drop below ~650 RPM.

I'd consider raising the idle a hair, ensure you have no vac leaks and see how it does.

MHO.
Good luck.
Click to expand...

Do that, try a 1/4 turn. Should clear it up.
 

Zero_chance

Founding Member
May 29, 2001
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Maricopa, AZ
Jul 15, 2008
#4
  • Jul 15, 2008
  • #4
I had the exact same problem after I bought my stang. I ended up doing the famous idle reset procedure and it hasnt done it since. Been nearly a year. Also, I dont believe the TPS setting is as important on our cars. Someone else might be able to elaborate on that. I could be wrong though, 14 hour days in the summer heat might be getting to me...
 

ram360

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Oct 19, 2002
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Pennsylvania
Jul 15, 2008
#5
  • Jul 15, 2008
  • #5
subscribing
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
31,179
34
129
Jul 16, 2008
#6
  • Jul 16, 2008
  • #6
Zero_chance said:
I had the exact same problem after I bought my stang. I ended up doing the famous idle reset procedure and it hasnt done it since. Been nearly a year. Also, I dont believe the TPS setting is as important on our cars. Someone else might be able to elaborate on that. I could be wrong though, 14 hour days in the summer heat might be getting to me...
Click to expand...

Both Aero foxes and 5N95's baseline (RATCH) the TPS reading. If the baseline is out of adaptive boundaries, a code is logged. So roughly speaking, as long as the baseline is 0.80 to 1.20 volts, it should be ok.
 
Y

y22kc

New Member
May 9, 2005
13
0
0
Jul 16, 2008
#7
  • Jul 16, 2008
  • #7
Adjusting the idle with air bleed screw with the IAC disconnected fixed it for now. Thanks for the advice everyone!
 
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