Car dies when shifted into reverse after cranking when motor is at operating temp

y22kc

New Member
May 9, 2005
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I need a little help on my 1995 Mustang GT, but first a little background on the car. It's a one owner, and the people that had it were an elderly couple that had kept the car bone stock and very well taken care of. Maintenance was done on the car at decent intervals as it still ran very good. It had 119k miles on it, and I've put about 1500 on it since I got it in October. Have done a complete tuneup (cap, rotor, plugs, wires, fuel filter, air filter, transmission fluid, rear end fluid) and it runs like a top.

One problem I cannot fix is when the car has been driven up to normal operating temps, and I kill it to run into someplace quickly, it will stall really bad or die when i crank it up and put into reverse. If I put it into drive, it may stall slightly, but never die. When it's cold, it doesn't do it at all. I have replaced the IAC sensor and the TPS sensor as well as tweaked it with the voltmeter so it is within specs. Could it be the ignition control module getting heat soaked? Or perhaps something else? Any input would be much appreciated!
 
It sounds like it's an idle or idle-set issue. In D or R while at operating temps, the idle is as low as it will ever go.

If you have a handheld diagnostic tach (or can see Pids), you shouldnt see the idle drop below ~650 RPM.

I'd consider raising the idle a hair, ensure you have no vac leaks and see how it does.

MHO.
Good luck.
 
It sounds like it's an idle or idle-set issue. In D or R while at operating temps, the idle is as low as it will ever go.

If you have a handheld diagnostic tach (or can see Pids), you shouldnt see the idle drop below ~650 RPM.

I'd consider raising the idle a hair, ensure you have no vac leaks and see how it does.

MHO.
Good luck.

Do that, try a 1/4 turn. Should clear it up.
 
I had the exact same problem after I bought my stang. I ended up doing the famous idle reset procedure and it hasnt done it since. Been nearly a year. Also, I dont believe the TPS setting is as important on our cars. Someone else might be able to elaborate on that. I could be wrong though, 14 hour days in the summer heat might be getting to me...
 
I had the exact same problem after I bought my stang. I ended up doing the famous idle reset procedure and it hasnt done it since. Been nearly a year. Also, I dont believe the TPS setting is as important on our cars. Someone else might be able to elaborate on that. I could be wrong though, 14 hour days in the summer heat might be getting to me...

Both Aero foxes and 5N95's baseline (RATCH) the TPS reading. If the baseline is out of adaptive boundaries, a code is logged. So roughly speaking, as long as the baseline is 0.80 to 1.20 volts, it should be ok.