Car has no spark after 2.3T swap

J

JB66

New Member

Aug 21, 2004

565

1

0

New York

Nov 17, 2005

#21

• Nov 17, 2005

• #21

There are diodes in the EEC and fuel pump relays. Are you getting battery voltage to the ECM at pin 1 with key off and pins 1, 37 & 57 with key in run position?

 

Stinger

Founding Member

Jul 7, 2001

7,754

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118

Basehor (Kansas City), KS

Nov 18, 2005

#22

• Nov 18, 2005

• #22

Check to see if you are getting power to any of the sensors under the hood...

 

N

nicklats

New Member

Nov 6, 2005

63

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Nov 19, 2005

#23

• Nov 19, 2005

• #23

After checking a few things we found that we are not getting a primary signal from the TFI (the green/yellow wire is not signaling to fire the coil). We have 12V on the red/green wire when the key is in the on position and/or cranking position. We have 12V on the red/blue when its cranking.

 

N

nicklats

New Member

Nov 6, 2005

63

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0

Nov 19, 2005

#24

• Nov 19, 2005

• #24

nicklats said:

After checking a few things we found that we are not getting a primary signal from the TFI (the green/yellow wire is not signaling to fire the coil). We have 12V on the red/green wire when the key is in the on position and/or cranking position. We have 12V on the red/blue when its cranking.

Click to expand...

NOTE: We had a new TFI and Coil on the car.

 

N

nicklats

New Member

Nov 6, 2005

63

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0

Nov 20, 2005

#25

• Nov 20, 2005

• #25

JB66 said:

There are diodes in the EEC and fuel pump relays. Are you getting battery voltage to the ECM at pin 1 with key off and pins 1, 37 & 57 with key in run position?

Click to expand...

We checked pins 1, 37, 57 they checked out fine

 

Stinger

Founding Member

Jul 7, 2001

7,754

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118

Basehor (Kansas City), KS

Nov 21, 2005

#26

• Nov 21, 2005

• #26

Power to sensors under hood???????

 

N

nicklats

New Member

Nov 6, 2005

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Nov 27, 2005

#27

• Nov 27, 2005

• #27

yes the sensors have power. I thought I found the problem, I had my 12 V ignition wire hooked to a red wire in the harness but I switched it to the red green wire that goes to the ECM on the strut tower (pin 13). The injectors are firing but no spark. When I try to start the car my dual fans switch on. Put a new distributor in and no spark. I was thinking about putting the Turbo coupe ECM on the car because there is a power inverter in it and there isnt a power inverter in the N/A ECM.

For the Vain air meter does the Or/white wire only go to the br/wht wire @ the baro. sensor

 

Stinger

Founding Member

Jul 7, 2001

7,754

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118

Basehor (Kansas City), KS

Nov 27, 2005

#28

• Nov 27, 2005

• #28

Yes, it's just getting a 5v signal from the Baro...

 

N

nicklats

New Member

Nov 6, 2005

63

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0

Nov 28, 2005

#29

• Nov 28, 2005

• #29

When rewiring the distributor plug do any of the wires that go to the distributor also go the the ECM (the black box on the strut tower) besides the rd/gr wire. I am thinking that since I ran new wires directly to the distributor that there might be a wire that goes to the ECM. Im pretty much stuck right now I dont have anymore ideas on how to get it running.

 

Stinger

Founding Member

Jul 7, 2001

7,754

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118

Basehor (Kansas City), KS

Nov 29, 2005

#30

• Nov 29, 2005

• #30

Get a new mustang harness and do the swap the right way...

 

M

mr2gq

Member

Jun 16, 2011

65

2

7

stockbridge ga

Nov 10, 2013

#31

• Nov 10, 2013

• #31

I knew this is old but I didn't find a answer. I'm having the same issue. I have a 93 followed stingers instructions to letter. No spark. Double checked all writing. Power to sensors everything. I'm using a lb3 ecu. I had a plastic modual not sure if it was good but nothing changed when swapping. Fuel everything cuts on

 

fess40

Founding Member

Nov 17, 2001

292

4

19

Paris, Illinois

Nov 11, 2013

#32

• Nov 11, 2013

• #32

You'll probably get more responses if you start a new thread. That being said you might also try posting on Stingers site. I used his instructions on my '89 without a hitch. First thing I would do is go back to the very beginning of the swap, even though you know you did it right. Go through it like it's the first time, or even walk someone else through it all. Sounds like something is unhooked or wired wrong at some point.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk

 

M

mr2gq

Member

Jun 16, 2011

65

2

7

stockbridge ga

Nov 11, 2013

#33

• Nov 11, 2013

• #33

I thought about it but I figured it wouldn't be any different as it will show up at the top in the section it's in. And I have been through it 3 times from the beginning. I'm going to start with another harness as I was going to deviate at little from the guideline and pulled a few pins out the 3 connectors in the ignition harness. Then seen it wasn't going to work and put the back. Some of the connectors had empty slots but I think they was blocked off from the rubber seal on the bottom of the connectors. But I'm at work and ain't sure. So I'm just going to stop by the yard on the way home and get another harness coil and tfi module. Hopefully I'll get it going

 

fess40

Founding Member

Nov 17, 2001

292

4

19

Paris, Illinois

Nov 11, 2013

#34

• Nov 11, 2013

• #34

Good luck, hopefully that will take care of it!

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk

 

M

mr2gq

Member

Jun 16, 2011

65

2

7

stockbridge ga

Nov 11, 2013

#35

• Nov 11, 2013

• #35

Okay this might sound really stupid but the instructions say connect the 2 wires from the the tfi module to the coil. Was it supposed to be "T-ed" in or cut completely and wires ran to the coil?i cut and ran straight to coil. I swear I checked for voltage there and there was non after changing the tfi and coil. Sooo...I just ran a wire from my battery to the pos side on the coil and it fired up and ran lol. So before I redo the harness I need to know if I'm doing it wrong

 

M

mr2gq

Member

Jun 16, 2011

65

2

7

stockbridge ga

Nov 12, 2013

#36

• Nov 12, 2013

• #36

Okay I just wanted to update incase someone searching google as I did or this forum has the same problem. I cant stand it when youre searching for a problem and you find a post about it and then you never hear a update or end result and its 5 years old lol. Its like wtf either tell us what was wrong with it or if you sold the car or what lol. Anyway the instructions om stinger wasn't as clear as what they might have should been as it was in the beginning of the instructions. At the beginning he tells you to "specifically " to run the wire from the air meter to the BARO and to " T " into it and specifically not to cut it. Fast forward to the ignition part he says run a wire from the TFI plug to the coil positive and negative side. He didn't say T into those wires as he did when instructing you what to do with the airmeter wire. So I assumed he was talking about run the wire from the plug straight to the coil. Not T into them cause he didn't instruct to. Which is why I had no spark. So pay attention to the instructions cause he does tell what wires to put in the TFI plug. Which is the red/green wire from the black plug needs to go to the tfi plug and then the tan/yellow. THEN you T into those and run it to the coil. That's what I did and it runs like a champ. Hopefully this helps other people

 

Shawneebear93

20+ Year Stangneter

May 4, 2004

518

17

49

Salisbury Twp, Allentown, PA

Nov 13, 2013

#37

• Nov 13, 2013

• #37

I know how you feel about never hearing an end result. Thanks for informing us!