Car is sputtering

[TrickStang37]

well, sometimes the car runs great, then in a blink of an eye itll buck big time and run like **** and then snap out of it and run great. been doing it alot recently. whats your guys ideas of what it could be? it does it equally when hot or cold. i also need to check the spark plugs tomorrow.

 

[HISSIN50]

any codes?

i might goose test wiring.

good luck.

 

[TrickStang37]

will pull codes tomorrow.

 

[HISSIN50]

sounds good. you have a nice list of mods, BTW.

can you be more specific on when it runs good and does not? if it really seems to be random, i would try goosing wires. do you have any buds (or do you) with something that can datalog?

good luck.

 

[bgjohnson]

is this under load, idle, cruising? sounds like maybe somthings loose or somthing could be arcing under certain conditions. or possible a TFI module, i know they can be odd like that somtimes if they are going bad.

 

[TrickStang37]

well, i checked the plugs and they all looked cool. checked if the plugs were grounding, some are, in the process of moving the plug wires around so they touch no metal. ill post in a few minutes to tell you the outcome.

 

[HISSIN50]

if you have the car in the dark, you can put water in a squirt bottle and run the motor in the dark. spray water on the wires and see if you get a light show.

DO BE VERY CAREFUL ABOUT NOT GETTING BODY PARTS STUCK IN MOVING MOTOR COMPONENTS.

good luck.

 

[TrickStang37]

well the car runs ALOT smoother, but it just did it again with the hesitation/sputtering, just doesnt do it as bad. feels like when i first put the MAF in (76mm). it ran like complete crap. then i turned it about 45* and it ran perfectly. now, almost two weeks later its running like it was before, crap again.

 

[TrickStang37]

well, i cleaned the MAF today, the thing was kinda black. still didnt help any with the hesitation but the car drove and responded smoother than before but the sputtering still returns. but it did it when i floored it as well today, so im guessing its fuel or ignition. i'm gonna swap out the rotor in the distributor right now, i tried different cap didnt work. if not, i got an extra distributor that ill test out. post in few minutes.

any ideas from you guys?

 

[HISSIN50]

if not already asked, do you have a FP gauge mounted so you can watch FP at WOT (or whenever it chooses to stumble)?

good luck.

 

[eliot22]

I thought you were going to pull codes. Don't tease us!
I have a feeling you have a bad sensor. Every time I have a mystery problem (ALL the time!) it turns out to be a sensor.

 

[TrickStang37]

lol i will pull codes tomorrow. dont got a code reader (stolen) so will have to do the paperclip trick. ill post what happens. oh yeah, other rotor/distributor did nothing. and no, no way to monitor fuel pressure during hesitation. Im thinkin the plug wires are still grounding. when setting my timing, the light from the timing light would sometimes shine when the harmonic balancer was in a completely different position from where its supposed to be so im thinkin the spark is still jumping. these are brand new 9mm FMS plug wires, they have not touched the headers at all. this is gay.

 

[Kurtis]

Dont feel bad. The same thing just started happening to me. Really a pain in the ass. Tried running more vacuum because of the dr. gas x-pipe, but it did nothing. I really would like a solution, but im droppin in a new engine anyway. And if that doesnt fix it...

 

[NYC LSC]

I have the same damn problem. Car goes from idling great, to idling under 1000 and smelling very rich with a big time fume smell.

So far I've changed MAF meters, ECT, ACT & 02 sensors to NO avail.

I've got no freakin' idea.

 

[91RRLX]

Mine sputters also

only up around 3750-4000 and higher. It doesn't matter if crusing or wot it sputters and backfires. It is more noticeable when crusing at that rpm, obviously. Some times it does it and some times it doesn't. I am thinking tfi module. I had a chevy truck w/he one time did the same thing. I replaced the ingnition module and problem solved. Did you verify the other dist had a good tfi module.

 

[TrickStang37]

ok dudes, help me out. these are the codes I came up with:
KOEO - 34
KOER - 34 / 42
Cylinder Balance - 2

so whats it mean?

 

[NYC LSC]

34 (R) EVP - EGR did not respond properly during test - EVP
42 (R) System rich - Fuel control
42 (M) System was rich for 15 seconds or more (no HO2S switching) - Fuel control

(R) = Engine Running test (M) = Memory code (O)=Key On Engine Off test

Taken from TroubleCodes.net

Hope this helps.

 

[TrickStang37]

well, i checked the spark plug on cylinder #2. the porcelain was cracked. hopefully that is it. on another note, my headers dont have the o2 sensors on the collectors, they have them on 1 header pipe coming form the cylinders on each side. thats not going to give me some accurate reading anyways right?

 

[HISSIN50]

if you feel inclined, i might search Jrichker's posts on those codes. he has some comprehensive write ups.

a malfuctioning EGR can definately cause issues. the EGR valve can wear at its seat, which causes the sensor to detect that the valve is somewhere it should not be.

good luck.

 

[TrickStang37]

who Jrichker? i will do a search. anyways, changed that spark plug, car runs stronger but it still does that hesitation even at WOT. same codes this time except cylinder balance test passed. do you think the EGR may be getting stuck? well, ill do a search anyways.