car jolts and bucks back and forth...drivetrain problem please help

[SSS281]

this is going to be very hard to follow please bare with me:

this is most noticeable when the car is going slow (less than 40, especially when less than 10mph) when i press the gas the car will jolt backward, itll sound like the shifter is banging against something and then it will go it also feels like something is banging around in the rear...when i let off it will jolt forward. when i pull out on a hill i feel the clutch chatter and only the left rear wheel feels like its getting power and there will be clanking around. the clutch by the way is brand new (1200 miles on it) and it engages when its all the way out, i know thats not right. if im going slow in a parking lot and i barely hit the gas just to go a little bit it will jolt forward and back and forth on its own like 4, 5 times when i only hit the gas once. it makes me look like i cant drive. WTF is going on someone please help.

its been suggested to me that these were the possibilities:
1. driveshaft has too much slack
2. ring and pinion gears shot
3. trans mount worn
4. engine mount worn
5. clutch cable stretched
6. throttle cable stretched
7. clutch installed improperly

 

[warrior86]

i have a similar problem that im getting looked at tongiht. LEt u know if i figure anything out

 

[UNVMATT]

I had this problem before too. It ended up being the clutch..

I would be driving slow in 1st or 2nd gear, let off of the gas after accelerating lightly, then clunk clunk jerk jerk.. Its kind of annoying.

 

[SSS281]

I had this problem before too. It ended up being the clutch..

I would be driving slow in 1st or 2nd gear, let off of the gas after accelerating lightly, then clunk clunk jerk jerk.. Its kind of annoying.

the clutch is brand new, can you pull it and reinstall it properly or do i need a whole new one?

 

[Kuestone]

I had same problem took it to ford cuz i had a waggle in my rear end and the car was jolty, it ended up being rusted bushings and rear valve seal was leaking.

 

[Mike97gt]

I had same problem took it to ford cuz i had a waggle in my rear end and the car was jolty, it ended up being rusted bushings and rear valve seal was leaking.

bushings are rubber... they don't rust... but they can wear out.. and there is no valves in the back.. pinion seal was probally the thing you called a valve seal.. .

i would check all the mounts... esp the trans mount and the control arms.. also check the u joints... and the driveshaft bolts themselfs... a loose driveshaft will cause that....

 

[mac1009]

Does it feel like boost surge? Mine does it when it's cold, but on decel, w/ the stock vortech bypass, it's very noticable. The mini-race should take care of it, or that's what Tim at MPH told me.

 

[SSS281]

the blower is sitting in a box, its not getting put back on until the new engine breaks in (im at 1,025 miles). but the clutch being brand new shouldnt it engage earlier than that? it doesnt grab until the pedal is practically a millimeter from all the way out. i was hoping with a adj clutch quadrant, firewall adjustor and new cables i could fix that without pulling a longtube and dropping the trans

 

[SSS281]

we took it for a drive today, he said its normal for now because the clutch isnt seated yet it needs to break in (has 1200 miles on it) and because the springs are stiff in it not like the stock clutch it wont give and it will buck. will this go away? anyone had a spec2, how long did it take?

 

[magnum347]

Something's not right. A new clutch should work flawless upon installation. Don't you have and adjustment nut at the end of the cable by the fork.? Either way, the cable needs to be adjusted. It should be releasing couple inches off the floor.
I would've went with a Dual Friction Centerforce. They've been around for decades and have a good reputation. I had one in the 89GT and that's what I'm getting for my Bullitt.
The bucking if not the slipping mal adjusted clutch... it's probably as mentioned above... not a U-joint because you'd have vibrations at speed.

 

[Mike97gt]

the blower is sitting in a box, its not getting put back on until the new engine breaks in (im at 1,025 miles). but the clutch being brand new shouldnt it engage earlier than that? it doesnt grab until the pedal is practically a millimeter from all the way out. i was hoping with a adj clutch quadrant, firewall adjustor and new cables i could fix that without pulling a longtube and dropping the trans

yeah that sounds like it's adjusted too tight. i would get a firewall adjuster and bring that down a little. remember you need too have atleast 7/8 inch free play (clutch disengaged)

 

[SSS281]

so do you guys think theres possibility of fixing this w/o ripping the clutch out?

 

[Mike97gt]

adjust the clutch and see if that helps before you pull the tranny out.