car keeps dieing after warmed up!!!help asap

more detail on the car would be nice.

My cat knocked my crystal ball on onto the floor and cracked it. Ever since then, things have been very fuzzy. Silver302 may be driving a bowtie and trying to confuse all of us...

No info about your car's model year, EFI or carb, no mods listed. Makes it hard to troubleshoot when we don't know what you have.

That's why it is a good idea to use the sig under the user control panel (User CP) option. It allows you to post your car year & mods, which help greatly when troubleshooting things. No, it is not there for us to snoop and see any "Secrets" you have hidden away under the hood. Be a good stangnetter and update you sig for future reference & don't keep us guessing.

you need to check to see if you are losing spark after while. My 302 had a magnetic pickup in the distributor that went bad when it got hot and did the same thing your talking about. had to buy a new pickup and put it in the distrbutor

Someone butchered your car by doing a EFI to carb conversion. Since you have no idea of the quality of workmanship, you may have all kinds of problems. I hope you got the car for a less than $1000, because unless is is really clean and good looking, that is all it is worth.

Here are some of the common problems.

A word of warning on EFI to carb swaps: don’t expect to pass emissions in any state that does comprehensive smog inspections, because it won’t happen. Be aware that you are violating several Federal laws concerning the removal of pollution control equipment. If you operate the vehicle on public highways and get caught by the state or federal law enforcement (doubtful, but possible) you could be subject to fines and imprisonment. You won't get any more power from a carb than you will from EFI.

Do not use an EFI in tank fuel pump with a carb. You will never get the pressure/flow regulated properly. Either go full EFI or use a tank/fuel pump/fuel lines out of an 84 or earlier Stang. Fabricating your own setup is possible but there are some snags to overcome.

Do not attempt to leave the EFI in place in an attempt to control either the electric fuel pump or ignition. Doing so qualifies you for the “Road Kill Mechanics Award”.

If you try to use your current tank, you will need to pull the fuel pump out and fabricate a pickup tube & strainer sock to replace the fuel pump. Or you can have a sump fabricated and welded onto you existing tank. Many welding shops will not weld fuel tanks because of the dangers involved if the tank isn't purged properly.

You will need an external electric fuel pump unless you change the timing cover for one with the mechanical fuel pump mount on it. Rip all the EFI wiring out, and the computer controlled fuel pump won't work. You will need to add a relay & switch and wire in the existing inertia switch for an external low pressure electric fuel pump. Do not try to wire the fuel pump without the relay. The 15-20 amps the pump pulls will overload the circuit. This will take power away from other items on the same circuit or cause the fuse or fuse link to blow.



While you are at the electrical part, you'll need a Durspark or similar ignition system. The 85 Mustang GT 5 speed has a suitable Duraspark distributor with a steel gear compatible with the roller camshaft. The EFI ignition depends on the EFI sensors to advance the spark. Rip out the TPS and MAP/Baro sensors and the computer will have no idea of the proper ignition timing for best performance. Running a fixed timing setting is only for test purposes or for a race track only car. Don't try it on the street: the results will not be nearly as good as a properly setup Durspark or equal. Crane makes a really nice distributor for non-EFI applications. . See CraneCams for more information.