Car Not Staying On? Help

[michaelgt]

Hello I have a 1989 Mustang GT 5.0 5 speed the mods she has is a 80 mm mass air meter Pro-m hook to a old school cold air intake 65 throttle body Holley systemax intake manifold ported cylinder heads 1.7 rocker arms BBK headers shorties Dynomax super turbo mufflers...the car won't stay running change TFI module change ECU relay change fuel pump relay also check the codes has a code 18 also new coil Accel new distributor twice. New spark plugs new cap and rotor put ignition switch looks to be good. When I turn it on it smells rich what could possibly be the problem

 

[jrichker]

You guys with idle/stall problems could save a lot of time chasing your tails if you would go through the Surging Idle Checklist. Over 50 different people contributed information to it. The first two posts have all the fixes, and steps through the how to find and fix your idle problems without spending a lot of time and money. It includes how to dump the computer codes quickly and simply as one of the first steps. I continue to update it as more people post fixes or ask questions. You can post questions to that sticky and have your name and idle problem recognized. The guys with original problems and fixes get their posts added to the main fix.

It's free, I don't get anything for the use of it except knowing I helped a fellow Mustang enthusiast with his car. At last check, it had more than 250,000 hits, which indicates it does help fix idle problems quickly and inexpensively.

 

[michaelgt]

Just checked it out went through it all still turns off

 

[jrichker]

Just checked it out went through it all still turns off

Fix the code 18 and then see what happens.

Code 18 - SPOUT out or wiring fault - look for short to ground in SPOUT wiring going back to the computer. Possible bad TFI or defective 22 K resistor in the IDM wiring

Use a timing light to check the timing: remove the SPOUT and observe that the timing retards at least 4 degrees. Put the SPOUT back in place and observe that the spark advances at least 4 degrees.
This code can disable spark advance and reduce power and fuel economy.

Remove the passenger side kick panel and disconnect the computer connector.
There is a 10 MM bolt that holds it in place.
Disconnect the TFI module connector from the TFI and the measure the resistance between the yellow/lt green wire and ground.
You should see greater than 100 K (100000) ohms.
Check the resistance from Pin 4 on the computer connector (dark green/yellow) and the dark green/yellow wire on the TFI connector. You should see 20-24 K Ohms (20,000-24,0000 ohms).


Resistor location: A big thanks to liljoe07 for this information:

Check over by the brake booster. Its not in the harness on the TFI, its on the main part of the harness over by the plugs that connect to the dash harness. About 6" or so from that, going back toward the EEC.

If I remember right, the resistor is covered in a shrink tubing that is sealed to the wires. So, you wont be able see any markings. The shrink tubing is labeled though. It's a 22kohm 1/2 watt resistor.

Here is the location.

Next measure the resistance between the yellow/lt green wire on the TFI module connector and Pin 36 on the computer connector. With the SPOUT plug in place, you should see less than 2 ohms.

The following is a view from the computer side of the computer connector.

This diagram is the wire side of the computer connector.

Diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds

 

[michaelgt]

changed the TFI module 5 times with brand new Motorcraft modules also put a new Resistor still turns off and has a code 18 when it turns off

 

[jrichker]

changed the TFI module 5 times with brand new Motorcraft modules also put a new Resistor still turns off and has a code 18 when it turns off

Did you do the end to end resistance check of the TFI wiring?
Remove the passenger side kick panel and disconnect the computer connector.
There is a 10 MM bolt that holds it in place.
Disconnect the TFI module connector from the TFI and the measure the resistance between the yellow/lt green wire and ground.
You should see greater than 100 K (100000) ohms.
Check the resistance from Pin 4 on the computer connector (dark green/yellow) and the dark green/yellow wire on the TFI connector. You should see 20-24 K Ohms (20,000-24,0000 ohms).

 

[Noobz347]

I got this from another resource:

Ford CODE 18: IDM circuit failure or SPOUT circuit grounded
The computer sends out a timing advance correction to the ICM over the SPOUT wire and then looks for the change on the IDM wire.

IDM - Ignition Diagnostic Monitor
SPOUT - Spark Output Signal from EEC/PCM
ICM - Ignition Control Module

You might check the ECT or the IAT sensor for your problem.
Also check the SPOUT/IDM wire going to ground.

ECT - Engine Coolant Temperature sensor and it has two wires on it.
IAT - Intake Air Temp

IDM (feedback) is a Dark Green with a Yellow stripe wire on the distributor connector.

IDM is pin 4 on the 60 pin ECM connector.

 

[a91what]

Looks like j and noobz have you covered

 

[michaelgt]

Thank you all for your information I think I got it working now I put a new TPS sensor and a new battery ground cable and it hasn't turned off.... crossing my fingers hope it did work... would a bad TPS sensor cause it to turn off And code 18?.. and by the way I don't have a code 18 anymore since I changed the TPS sensor

 

[Noobz347]

I would hazard to guess (although I can't say for sure) that your new grounding strap probably fixed your issue. If it's the ground that I'm thinking of, it's the one that provides ground for nearly every sensor on the EFI harness.

 

[michaelgt]

https://lmr.com/item/WC8699/83-93-Mustang-Negative-Battery-Cable that's the ground cable I got and I got a TPS Motorcraft sensor it does smell a little bit more like gas is that normal the old one was really bad