Car Overheating (Please Help)

Darkwriter77

Resident Ranting Negative Nancy

5 Year Member

Jul 1, 2005

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Apache Junction, AZ

Jul 14, 2008

#21

• Jul 14, 2008

• #21

Bump.

Just curious if you've got it together again and if a new head gasket solved the overheating issue.

 

S

Simple88GT

New Member

Mar 19, 2008

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F-V, NC

Jul 14, 2008

#22

• Jul 14, 2008

• #22

ive got the heads back on, changed the seals and cleaned it up a little bit, from the looks of it though the exhaust ports have not had any work done to them, the intakes look as if the were gasket matched with the stock replacement gasket. I am trying to get a bolt out of the intake that broke of at the thermostat housing. I am stuck there for now. but hopefully I can have it together soon, i miss driving it.guess I need to change my sig to 308.


Thanks for inquiring..

-Josh-

 

S

Simple88GT

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Mar 19, 2008

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F-V, NC

Jul 24, 2008

#23

• Jul 24, 2008

• #23

Update

Well as of today the motor is completely back together, got everything on it, but now it wont start, I have the balancer at TDC, put the distributor in the #1 spot, I am getting spark, the only thing that looks off is the Fuel Pressure, its at 25lbs, The pump is fairly new 190lph, I havent seen it get over 35 except when I pull the vac line then it goes to 40. I dont know what else to do. now i have to recharge the battery and get a new terminal for my neg it melted the lead cause I got angry and just held the key for a min. Just wanted to update. TTYL

-Josh-

 

Darkwriter77

Resident Ranting Negative Nancy

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Jul 1, 2005

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Apache Junction, AZ

Jul 24, 2008

#24

• Jul 24, 2008

• #24

IIRC, fuel pressure should be in the ballpark of 40 psi. Not sure why pulling the vacuum line off the FPR would make it go up, unless the FPR is cutting fuel supply when it gets vacuum ... which doesn't make sense because it doesn't get vacuum at all until the engine's actually cranking,

What method did you use to verify spark? Pulled a plug and checked for spark there, or just measured for 12 volts going to the ignition coil?

Might be possible you've got the distributor 180* out, in which case you'd be getting spark, but not timed correctly to run well (if at all).

Could also be that something is not connected or getting signal to the fuel pump to stay running. Fuel pump relay, inertia switch, fuel injector harness, salt n' pepper shakers (10-pin connectors), etc. ...?

 

NIKwoaC

中國製造

15 Year Member

Oct 31, 2006

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Chengdu Province

Jul 24, 2008

#25

• Jul 24, 2008

• #25

I started reading this and my first thought was "sounds like hes gonna end up with a 308". Does it have an adjustable fuel pressure regulator? Good luck man, I hope you get it running.

 

S

Simple88GT

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Mar 19, 2008

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F-V, NC

Jul 24, 2008

#26

• Jul 24, 2008

• #26

Will it start 180 out?

As far as the fuel pressure, I should have been more clear, the reading I was reffering to when I had it running the most I saw was 40, after I posted this last post It had jumped to 35lbs and went down to 25 after I tried to start it and the battery was low on charge, so I am thinking the fuel pump just isnt getting enough voltage, oh and I realized I forgot to put the chasis ground back on the head, before.

I can get it started now but it wont stay running without me pushing the pedal, and I cant turn the distributor to see if its timing cause I have to push down the pedal. Maybe its a tooth off but I put the timing mark at TDC and set the distributor so that It is on the number 1 plug wire.

And I verifie spark by pulling the wire and checking it, I bought an MSD cap and rotor kit before I put it back together so I knew that was good, I have the FRPP 9mm black wires that arent old, the only thing I can think of is the plugs and the gap, they are autolite 25's gapped at .045, I had them at .055 and couldnt get it to start, they were at .045 when I puilled them, before it overheated.

I think that is everything.


-Josh-

 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?

15 Year Member

Nov 29, 1999

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Jul 25, 2008

#27

• Jul 25, 2008

• #27

Have an assistant take care of the throttle so the timing can be checked.

It can start 180 out (when cars are mostly stock; generally modded cars won't) but it runs like total crap.

 

S

Simple88GT

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Mar 19, 2008

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F-V, NC

Jul 25, 2008

#28

• Jul 25, 2008

• #28

Finally, I figured it out, I had the distributor one tooth off, even after checking and rechecking, i finally just went back and remarked number 1 and sure enough it was off , oh well I feel stupid now. Anywho I need to pull the dash and fix the alternator, so I can actually charge my system. I hope everyone else had a good day, side note the car sounds sooo much better now, actually sounds like its got a cam, I didnt really notice it before. It has a nice lope to it now though.

-Josh-

 

Darkwriter77

Resident Ranting Negative Nancy

5 Year Member

Jul 1, 2005

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Apache Junction, AZ

Jul 26, 2008

#29

• Jul 26, 2008

• #29

You have to pull your dash to change out your alternator?

 

S

Simple88GT

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Mar 19, 2008

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F-V, NC

Jul 26, 2008

#30

• Jul 26, 2008

• #30

no theres a wire that runs to the dash for the battery light, the last time I had problems with my alt, there was a loose connection that I kinda just bandaided. Yesterday I cut the wire and ran a new one back to the alternator, it didnt fix the problem though. I also realized that the fuse I put in line when I did the wire upgrade blew so I think I may have fried the alt, and or bat, will find out later on today, but I took it for a drive and man I miss that power, my other car is a Sunfire. next on list AFPR, so can get it closer to 40, right now at idle its 30-35.

-Josh-

 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?

15 Year Member

Nov 29, 1999

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Jul 26, 2008

#31

• Jul 26, 2008

• #31

Does your battery light prove out? If it does, fix the other wiring issues. Then check voltage to the I terminal on the regulatorwith the key on. It should be 1+ volts.

For diagnostics, one can use a 500 ohm resistor in-series with a wire from the I-terminal to an accessory source.

 

S

Simple88GT

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Mar 19, 2008

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F-V, NC

Jul 26, 2008

#32

• Jul 26, 2008

• #32

my bat light doesnt come on at all, i am thinking i either fried the alt or battery, havent had a chance yet to take them upto the auto store for testing. The light itself is good I tested it yesterday when I had the dash out, I also checked the resistance between the fuse on the bulb holder and the one soldered to the board they both came back with 501 and 504 ohms, so they appear to be good. The fuse I had inline with the power wire blew, so I am hoping I blew the alt, or battery they are both under warranty, the battery is only 3 weeks old. thanks for the insight

-Josh-

 

S

Simple88GT

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Mar 19, 2008

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F-V, NC

Jul 27, 2008

#33

• Jul 27, 2008

• #33

after chasing everything out, it seems as if the lg/red wire where it plugs into the aternator is loose, so its fixed now and running better than ever. thanks for all the help everyone.

-Josh-

 

Simply Willens

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Oct 11, 2008

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Wichita, KS

Oct 31, 2008

#34

• Oct 31, 2008

• #34

Oil suggestion

Simple88GT said:

Also,I changed my oil last month switched from conventional to royal purple 10w 30, and now its burning oil at startup and my pressure drops the longer i drive it, I think that maybe due to the overheating problem though. Any help would be awesome.


-josh-

Click to expand...

We did a "burn test" of Royal Purple vs several oil brands. Royal Purple actually failed horribly for viscosity when compared against others of the same weight. As expected, Mobil 1 dominated the test with flying colors.

Simply put? Save the money, and go to the best, Mobil 1.

 

Simply Willens

New Member

Oct 11, 2008

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Wichita, KS

Oct 31, 2008

#35

• Oct 31, 2008

• #35

I'm new to the world of Mustangs, but my car runs consistently @ 209 degrees. It has pulleys, 3 core radiator, etc. From what I've read, that seems decent, but I wouldn't mind seeing 195 or so, tops. I'm thinking the 185 degree t-stat seems like a likely move. Anyone care to confirm?