Car running warm.....

[gcomfx.com]

Well, last try I suppose...

ordered this: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=BRA-1661&N=0&autoview=sku

I just remembered I put a reman on the car back in Sept. and didn't drive the car much. Oreillys said they would give me my money back, so that's good news. Only out $50 (had $35 credit at summit).

I've changed radiators, t-stats, all new fluid, coolant sensors (one of which cracked my GT-40 lower) and it still runs warmer than normal. I can't use the A/C on the highway for very long. Even without the A/C it'll get hot enough the fan has to kick on... and that's on the highway.

SO.... ordered the water pump above, and I'm going to add a bottle of water wetter this round. Going to do all this Monday night, as I have to drive the stang 4.5 hours one way on a business trip Tues. Fun, fun!

 

[95Vert]

That should take care of it. Well, at least i hope so, cause that's a lot of crap you're changing out.

Also, can you take a look and my thread about the fenderwell pics and help me out. I know you had some problems with your charcoal canister.

 

[legalize420]

please post the results. mines ok on the highway but in stop and go traffic it starts to creep up.

 

[gcomfx.com]

Will do..... Oh, I also changed my radiator cap. I know small thing, but someone said it would help.

 

[HISSIN50]

Paul, are you totally sure that the radiator is able to reject enough heat? If you have the lower air dam under the car and the front of the rad and condensor are clean, you should not run hot on the highway.

I hope the pump is a fix for you, but it's not where I would have started unless you specifically had reason to think it went bad (on a mechanical basis, they seldom 'go bad').

Considering that the computer is supposed to kick the fan off while on the highway, you really must be running warm. How warm are ya? Add a 15 dollar parts-store temp-gauge (it can sit on the console for a week if you dont want to permanently mount it) so you can see what's going on and make sure the new parts are working. If you dont want it, keep it around for diagnostic work atleast (or can you DL and see ECT temps?).

Good luck bud.

 

[gcomfx.com]

Paul, are you totally sure that the radiator is able to reject enough heat? If you have the lower air dam under the car and the front of the rad and condensor are clean, you should not run hot on the highway.

I hope the pump is a fix for you, but it's not where I would have started unless you specifically had reason to think it went bad (on a mechanical basis, they seldom 'go bad').

Considering that the computer is supposed to kick the fan off while on the highway, you really must be running warm. How warm are ya? Add a 15 dollar parts-store temp-gauge (it can sit on the console for a week if you dont want to permanently mount it) so you can see what's going on and make sure the new parts are working. If you dont want it, keep it around for diagnostic work atleast (or can you DL and see ECT temps?).

Good luck bud.

This isn't where I started, it's what I'm down to.

Basically I had to get a new water pump back in Sept. The stock one was seeping a bit, and the bearings were shot. I should have got something other than a reman. And I'm getting my money back on the reman.... so I look at it as I got a loaner for 9 months. LOL

I will be getting a regular guage if this doesn't help. I needed the radiator anyway, plastic was leaking coolant around the tranny hook ups. Plus, it gave me an excuse to go ahead and put my tranny cooler on. Just so everyone knows, the temps are the same BEFORE the tranny cooler, so it's not the problem. I've been noticing the higher temps on my guage for a while, it's just getting so blasted hot out that it's reason to worry. Plus I would like to be able to use my A/C on my trip Tues.

 

[blksn955.o]

Do you have a 190 stat in there? When I added a 190 the fans settings were off and it go hot. I changed them when I got the tweecer and its dead solid now. I also had a bad block to chassis ground that would not let the fans kick on so that would be worth a check (esp. if any guages are acting funky).

After I got the ground issue straight I ran a test loop (stretch of road I use to datalog) and while looking at my guage flipping back and forth from stock fan settings to the modded settings it got hotter kinda quick, when it hit 5*+ I would kick it over to the modded fan settings and it would drop down as fast as it went up.

Dunno of it will help but that was one of my findings. Here in Mo though a better rad. is not a bad idea anyway with the 90-102* and 90+ humid.

 

[gcomfx.com]

180* t-stat.... ran on that for years, just put ANOTHER new 180* in it, hoping the old one was sticking.

Fan is kicking on when sitting still, so I doubt it's a ground issue, but might be. I don't know if it's running on the highway, as there is too much noise.

MO can be one hot SOB though. It may be guage pod time.

 

[urban96]

do you have an aftermarket gauge?

how are the temps if you have the A/C on?


mine used to creep up to 220 ish in traffic without the a/c on. with a/c 210

 

[gcomfx.com]

Nope, that's why I made the comment it might be time for a guage pod.

For the past 3-4 years my stock guage would hit perfectly vertical. Exactly 50% of the guage, the 180 t-stat would open up and drop it back down to the O or R in Normal. It would stay there til I did some hard driving, then back to vertical, and drop back down.

The car is NOT dropping back down now unless the fan comes on, and then it's SLOW to drop back down. I've noticed the car will run cooler with the A/C on "sometimes" but I'm sure that's due to the fan being on when you turn the A/C on.

My car gets to the L and is headed on up. Right before I pull over, I try the fan on high speed (manual switch) and it will hold the temp for a while, then SLOWLY crawl back down. But never to the vertical spot. It's ALWAYS past it. So either my guage has shot craps or my water pump isn't performining like the one I took off the car.

Should know Monday. Even if it is just the guage, I'll be happy knowing I got a water pump I wanted anyway. It'll come in handy when I upgrade the engine (hopefully this winter).

 

[gcomfx.com]

Put the new fangle waterpump on:

"Flow Kooler water pumps solve low-speed heating problems by doubling the water flow rate at low rpm and idle. At 3,500 rpm, the flow rate returns to normal, to prevent too much water flow at high speeds. These pumps also last longer than a stock replacement. They use a specially designed steel plate on the impeller that traps water, eliminates cavitation, increases flow, and reduces engine temperatures."

Link is in the first post.

The steel plate setup is kinda kewl looking. Pump came with two gaskets for spacing of the rivets for the new plate. I was a little worried, but it seemed to mount just fine.

Now for the fun part. The car doesn't climb quite as high on the guage, but it still runs higher than normal. I really thinking my stock guage is fubared.

Not sure I can scrounge the money or the time to put another guage on the car tonight before my big trip for work. Guess I'll bank on the guage lying to me. I mean twice the coolant at idle, new radiator, new coolant, no leaks, and it doesn't appear to using up any coolant like an internal leak or anything.