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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
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Car runs for 3 seconds and dies!

  • Thread starter Thread starter Ozz
  • Start date Start date Feb 28, 2004
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Ozz

I think I have a problem here.
Founding Member
Jul 27, 2001
3,514
66
109
Canton, MI
Mar 2, 2004
#21
  • Mar 2, 2004
  • #21
Got it running! But when I give it gas, it dies out.

Fuel problem?
 

Papageof

Founding Member
May 6, 2002
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0
Jacksonivlle, FL
Mar 2, 2004
#22
  • Mar 2, 2004
  • #22
A friend of mine had a toyota doing the same thing and it was a problem with either the IAC or the TPS i can't remember which.
 
G

gopher_6_9

Member
Jun 16, 2003
55
0
6
Mar 2, 2004
#23
  • Mar 2, 2004
  • #23
Papageof said:
A friend of mine had a toyota doing the same thing and it was a problem with either the IAC or the TPS i can't remember which.
Click to expand...


Would have to be TPS IAC s the opposite, will only run with the peddle down till it gets warm. Check the TPS voltage and let us know what it is.
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
31,179
34
129
Mar 3, 2004
#24
  • Mar 3, 2004
  • #24
while checking TPS, if you can use an analog VOM and check the range of motion for the sensor. should be linear and smooth as you open the throttle. no dips or flat spots.
how is vacuum? a leak can cause cold motor stalling. only thoughts that come to mind. good luck, Dave.
 

Ozz

I think I have a problem here.
Founding Member
Jul 27, 2001
3,514
66
109
Canton, MI
Mar 3, 2004
#25
  • Mar 3, 2004
  • #25
All vacuums are fine, I checked those when I dug into check the pcv valve line.
How do I check TPS?
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
31,179
34
129
Mar 3, 2004
#26
  • Mar 3, 2004
  • #26
Generally TPS problems will require holding the pedal down to keep the car idling. that is, if it is out of adjustment. worth checking in your case, just to rule it out:

to check it, warm the car up if you can (sounds like you cant; who cares). you can probe the green wire to the TPS with the positive lead of a DMM. you can probe the black wire for the ground lead. look for around .95 volts. once good, open the throttle to make sure that the volts go up nice and smooth as you crack the throttle open. should be no dead spots, etc.

if it is out of spec (too low is no biggie, too high, like over 1.00 volts, is bad), you can loosen the two screws that hold it down. wiggle the TPS around till it reads what you want. some folks need to drill (ream) out the TPS mounting holes to make it adjust as needed. no biggie.

i dont know that this will help you, but as said, it takes a few mins to check and rules something out. good luck.
 

Ozz

I think I have a problem here.
Founding Member
Jul 27, 2001
3,514
66
109
Canton, MI
Mar 6, 2004
#27
  • Mar 6, 2004
  • #27
I tried setting my TPS but I think it may be busted. I had the wires probed and the multimeter set, and the numbers read 1.64. I loosened the screws and turned the TPS and the numbers didn't change. I tried opening the throttle body flap manually by pullnig the linkage below, the numbers still did not move.

I will have another by tomorrow to put on, hoping it'll work like it should.

When setting the TPS, should it lay right on top of the little tab that opens the TB or should I lay it at an angle to the screw-holes, then twist it to align with them, thus opening the TB flap? Either way, no matter which way I did it, the tps reading still said 1.64!

I was able to get the car running for about 10 seconds tops tonight, then it died out. It will start right up again but it will die right out regardless.

If my fuel supply is getting cut off, where would I begin looking for where it happens?

Oh, and there's a reward for any local who comes down here to get this running and shut me up
 
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