car runs horrible after h/c/i

Daniel50 · Aug 11, 2006

so just finished a h/c/i on the 94. B cam, gt-40p heads, street heat intake, 1.7rr. the car runs very rough and misfires like crazy and dumping fuel into the motor. plugs are already fouled and they brand new. smells like fuel also. compression test showed around 150 on all cylinders, no vacuum leaks, cam timing good, cant find anything unhooked, distributor good and timed at 14 degress. any ideas?

ProKiller · Aug 11, 2006

what's your fuel pressure?

eagleautosports · Aug 11, 2006

Don't forget that year computer doesn't like aggressive cams and won't run right. Ford dropped the ball on the '95-'95 computers and you might need to address that first.

fiveoho · Aug 11, 2006

EagleAutosports said:
Don't forget that year computer doesn't like aggressive cams and won't run right. Ford dropped the ball on the '95-'95 computers and you might need to address that first.

im dreading that too when mine is finished. some say its a hit or miss thing if it runs decent after the changes

Davin · Aug 11, 2006

chances are you have made a timing error somewhere. The fuel is probably not "dumping" out as much as it's just not burning off. The plugs are probably fould becuase, well..the fuel is not burning off. Did to degree the cam or at least line the dots up correctly. After that your timing could be 180 degrees off. What timing are you running? Click the starter (or disconnect the coil from the dist. and hand turn the engine) till the timing indicator shows where you want timing (i.e. 10 degrees BTDC). Take the dist cap off and see were it is pointing. It should be pointing right at the point that is going to cylinder #1. Double check to make sure all your wires are in the right place and then let us know...

Daniel50 · Aug 11, 2006

cam was installed with the dots lined up. that was tripled checked when we did it. timing is at 14 degrees right now and the timing and distributor and firing order have been checked a thousand times also and its all right. would the computer since its untuned make it run this bad?

1994Vib.RedGT · Aug 11, 2006

i would say check the maf sensor

Pokageek · Aug 11, 2006

Did you add new injectors or a MAF?

Daniel50 · Aug 11, 2006

stock maf and stock injectors

final5-0 · Aug 11, 2006

I'll say it like this ..................

Your dizzy ain't right

Get the #1 slug to the top of the hole
AND
the hb at zero
AND
the rotor pointing to #1 position.

When peeps take the dizzy out and it runs bad ..........

Thats whats the prob .......... most of the time

Also check for leaks ........ all kinds

You just gotta work out all the bugs after a major project like that

Grady

Guero · Aug 11, 2006

final5-0 said:
I'll say it like this ..................

Your dizzy ain't right

Get the #1 slug to the top of the hole
AND
the hb at zero
AND
the rotor pointing to #1 position.

When peeps take the dizzy out and it runs bad ..........

Thats whats the prob .......... most of the time

Also check for leaks ........ all kinds

You just gotta work out all the bugs after a major project like that

Grady

Can you elaborate on this?

drakesdad · Aug 11, 2006

Guero said:
Can you elaborate on this?

Guero....Grady is talking about getting the #1 piston up........making sure the harmonic balancer is at 0 and pulling the cap off the distributor and seeing where the rotor is at and making sure it is pointing to #1..........timing thing...

Davin · Aug 11, 2006

drakesdad said:
Guero....Grady is talking about getting the #1 piston up........making sure the harmonic balancer is at 0 and pulling the cap off the distributor and seeing where the rotor is at and making sure it is pointing to #1..........timing thing...

yes, while it is nice to believe that when the balancer says that #1 is at TDC that it is up but checking the piston is the sure fire way when things are going bad and everything "seems okay". pull the #1 spark plug and stick a wooden pencil (eraser side) in there to feel when the piston hits it's peak. Another helpful thing is to pull the valve cover and watch the valves. Your looking for the piston to reach top dead center after the intake valve closes, the piston goes all the way down and then hits top again. Just after this, the exhaust valve will start to open.

STANGateURlilSS · Aug 11, 2006

final5-0 said:
I'll say it like this ..................

Your dizzy ain't right

Get the #1 slug to the top of the hole
AND
the hb at zero
AND
the rotor pointing to #1 position.

When peeps take the dizzy out and it runs bad ..........

Thats whats the prob .......... most of the time

Also check for leaks ........ all kinds

You just gotta work out all the bugs after a major project like that

Grady

agreed the dizzy is 180 out... check it and then retime it.. the car should run just fine with the what is done to it.. the b-cam is still a small cam..

built a 94 gt with a comp cam much bigger than the b-cam.. car run perfect..

final5-0 · Aug 11, 2006

Since this subject seems to come up weekely ................

See if this make sense to .......... whoever

If everything lines up ..........

Its Perfect

OR

180 out

gotta be one or the other ... can't be anything else

I never went to the trouble of finding compression stroke

If it didn't fire right up ...... I just spun the rotor to the exact opposite side of the dizzy housing and it always fired up

Grady

Pokageek · Aug 12, 2006

Davin said:
yes, while it is nice to believe that when the balancer says that #1 is at TDC that it is up but checking the piston is the sure fire way when things are going bad and everything "seems okay". pull the #1 spark plug and stick a wooden pencil (eraser side) in there to feel when the piston hits it's peak. Another helpful thing is to pull the valve cover and watch the valves. Your looking for the piston to reach top dead center after the intake valve closes, the piston goes all the way down and then hits top again. Just after this, the exhaust valve will start to open.

This is exactly what my cousin did to get mine right...well< he used a screw driver but same deal. AND you here it go pppppppppppppeeeeeeeee
eeeeeeeshhhhhhhhhhhhh!

Daniel50 · Aug 12, 2006

i figured it out!!! bad fuel pressure regulator. problem fixed!

final5-0 · Aug 12, 2006

Thats Great

It can be a bummer to spend all that jack
and
see all those shiny new parts
and then
be rewarded with lack luster performance

Keep us updated on your findings

Grady

drakesdad · Aug 12, 2006

final5-0 said:
Thats Great

It can be a bummer to spend all that jack
and
see all those shiny new parts
and then
be rewarded with lack luster performance

Keep us updated on your findings

Grady

That's good to hear..... but like Grady has said several times before.....once you start adding big parts "there will always be some bugs to work out"......thank god we have peeps like him and several others to lend the helpful "mind"......

Davin · Aug 14, 2006

Daniel50 said:
i figured it out!!! bad fuel pressure regulator. problem fixed!

Glad to here it..how's it run?

My 2 cents, if you don't have one, take advantage of the fitting on the fuel rail and install a guage, it'll make it a lot more obvious should it happen again (note: Every adjustable FPR I've ever bought (BBK, Aeromotive) had crapped out on me, except the current Kirban)

car runs horrible after h/c/i

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